HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

Looks like it was made for it...

 

“Seat tilt” latch release tab.

I made these to mount the release lever. The extra hole was added to connect a rod I bent up to the other side of the seat for the second latch.

They can’t pull straight over. It has to move both tabs into the middle. So that requires one or the other having a new piece added. I chose the outside of the seat to kill two birds with one fabricated stone.

Now drill rod for cotter pins. Probably needs a shallow button head flat drive screws coming from above the bracket. The seat bottom is going to be right on these bug’rs. All of this stuff will be painted variations of military green.

I have to finish cutting four of these cogged pieces out of 1/4” plate. They get welded to the side of the tray that the seat cushion sets in. I’m using a 5/16” thread hex drive bolt’s head to locate the spring loaded lever deal in one of these three positions. I think it’s round diameter is 3/8 or 7/16”. I have to have a stopper for the levers spring plate to rest on and support the weight of a passenger. I still am worried that you may have to move the front of the seat up to get the bolt head to pull out of a selected cog. I’m more concerned with it staying put then releasing.
I would hate to be fiddling with the seat adjustment all the way up the Hillclimb.


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Clever latch.

hey @Austin kays if you aren’t already following this thread you need to

 

I forgot to show the lengths I torture myself using the 4 1/2” grinder w/cut-off wheel. Four of these 1/4” thick plates were needed. One goes on each side of both seat bases.






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Almost missed this in the classifieds.
Thanks @Aaron D. This piece is so much cooler than my polished stocker that keeps turning dull grey.
I’ll work out something for the breather tube.


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This front axle hasn’t been seen in its entirety for 3-4 years! Seriously


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Is that the beginning of a winter front? Looking cool!


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Ha! That thing hasn’t progressed much in the last three years either. I’m close to making the band that the shutters will mount in. I’m making two actually, wink wink. I never did order the tube for your shutters but I did get the stainless material to attempt making the outer ring to go with the middle bar. I haven’t forgotten your grill anymore than I’ve forgotten my entire car.


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Get er dun!

 

Thanks, that was not why I asked. But it did get me excited!

 

Do you have weight on the tires? I’m always worried about them flat spotting on a project that doesn’t get moved around much.

 

The back is just the axle. The front isn’t really much weight. Considering the front tires had less than 5 pounds in’m for over a year and you couldn’t tell they were low. I put 25 in them about a week ago and it didn’t noticeably change their shape any. I believe I have four leaves in the front pack right now and it is still up a couple inches too high. I have a desire to leave it fairly flat. Some of the homogenized rakes could steal away from its pure 40s esthetic. But if you look at the front view now the grill, chin guard, and headlights look sorta stupid. The bottom of the V8 emblem should probably be dead parallel with the bottom of the axles center droop.
Boy oh boy do I love my 5.50 6.00 tyre sizes these days. That @Terry Buffum did so good by me. I can’t even imagine another tire on her now.


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Haha mine had 3 in them. Rolled the car around the driveway for two days and never noticed.

And I feel ya on sticking to a rake... or lack there of.

I kinda have a thought like that on mine as well. But kinda backwards. I know the car would not sit like this in the era the parts/ build fits but it just has to sit like it is. Correct ness be damned lol

push that fucker outside for us

 

...The Stance has a 110mph Standing Still look about it...

​

 

I was waiting till the back roof section can be at least set on again. Preferably the rear louvered panel as well. The driver door does go on sometimes but I haven’t worked on it other than cutting it so it can rest in the jam. The door top still isn’t cut enough for the chop in the front.


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Step one find wooden broom handle.

step two drill two holes for bolts

step three install new wooden tie rod and push that floppy thing outside lol

- do not suggest zip ties instead of bolts haha. Seriously though rolling it out is always worth the effort.

I’ve also had fantastic luck moving the car around before and even after it had steering by putting each tire on a $7 harbor freight wood dolly. The small ones are rated to 1,000 pounds each and these things are so light even the cheap casters do a fantastic job rolling it around. On 4 Dolly’s I can move my A with one hand easily

 

I have the four dollies laying under the car but would never be able to cross the garage pad to driveway transition.


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Sorry these may not be helpful. I can’t set the roof on for it needs a cut. I need the front more accurately placed in order to know how much to trim. I’m cutting the two sections in a fashion that will save the wood bows original mounting points. The middle two bows where the dome light will go get closer.

Then I can make the wood mount for this.


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You can almost here Manish Boy playing.



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BADASS!

 

I know it doesn’t look that great in its current shape or these pics. But here I’m damn happy with the meaness it has out side. It looks like I have to narrow the back of the body like I’ve thought. It looks really wide and flat. Also from the side with out the tank it looks like wheelie bars back there. Maybe a partial bob could happen? But I’m fairly certain the gas tank is right on the cross member.


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If I put red rims on I’d be KING!


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Seeing it outside is always worth the hassle. Damnit that thing looks angry! Your nailing it man. The proportions are just great, the shortening of the back half feels... sneaky. Like I know somethings different but what is it. Huge improvement. Well worth the cut it apart, put it together and repeat.

what’d the wheel base land at?

and I hear you about the driveway transitions/ bump/ curbs. Ugh

 

Get welding!!!

 

cool!!!!
I would like to see it photo shopped with the rocker following the door.

 

Ted, the door just has a sloppy cut from where I took off the rough rust . I have no intentions of raising the rocker. It is possible that one of the reasons the body drops down so low was from me trying to get the wheel well opening lower to the tire and the belt line to run true with the hood and cowl section. If it’s not too far back for some to remember, I had pie cut the frame twice up front to get the body to set well with the dog house. So effectively the frame is slightly sagged out or bowed down? I had collected 32 3w measurements from a few H.A.M.B.’res along the way. The 32 3w doors and 33-34s are not very different in door height and length.


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@Tim the wheelbase is now 107 1/2” I believe. I’m starting to loose some of the car details since it’s taking so long and I get distracted by other brain space sapping shit. Like I’ve forgotten probably 100 little dimensions of the car and Henry specifics I could spout off three years ago. Things like the king pin diameter, how much I bent the spindles, what size holes are in everything, how much I might have to mill off the left side of the block deck vs. the right side, thread size for the Willys tie rod ends, axle width, degrees of all the front suspension parts, and yadda, yadda, yadda.
Basically it’s 106” 32 Ford plus the axle forward for the “spring behind” set up.


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did not want to add to your work. just curious.
can't wait to see it all put together.

 

I had thought this would clear. It looks like I will need to make a aluminum spacer to clock it. This will require a longer push rod to actuate the fuel pump as well. Not that I know if I’ll have enough GPH for the four carbs and blower anyway. I will mount all this stuff even if I have to gut the pump and run a electric under the car, which I really don’t want.


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