Hi All, Scoping out cars on facebook because im bored, and i saw this. The posting said it was on a 32 frame but its looks like they welded in an additional bar in front of the rear end and then attached the shocks to it. Is that kosher? Kind of looks like the 32 frame had been shortened? Also looks like theres a gap between the frame and the body where that wood block is located.
A lot of twisting by the frame extensions off of the X-member I'd think. At first I thought, "Where are the springs supposed to go?" but then I saw the quarter elliptic in the top photo. Not exactly KISS engineering. I'd consider it 50% done with 99% to go. Lynn
I've done 7 or 8 deuce rear-ends similar to that. I mounted the Posie 1/4 elliptical rear springs inside the rails used P&J ladder bars and the shocks mounted like in your pictures. They all worked fine. If you check my website under project roadster number 2 there's some pictures of the chassis. cornhuskerrodandcustom.net I've never seen a frame done quite like the one in your pictures. I think the body in the picture is a model A.
Yeah thanks for that ill take a look at your content, it is a model A. I think id be better served getting a chassis from an established builder than dealing with the above.
It could work, I'd just think the rear of the frame should be tied together with more than a two inch crossmember that has 180 degrees of bend in it. Those springs are hanging off two long legs of the frame, and they might induce a bit of twist that the skinny crossmember can't resist.
Looks like trying to be different for the sake of different and solving a problem that doesn't exist.
Before you scrap the frame & start over, show us some pictures of the rest of the frame and the front suspension. While at first sight the frame seems unusual, but it looks like good fabrication and welding and like krylon says the engineering works. Stock Model A frames stopped at the rear crossmember and the body hung out back. With the axle clearance notches you will have to reinforce that portion of the body. Model A bodies sat on wood blocks from the factory, but the '32 frame is curved on top and the "A" is flat. Steadfast makes subrails that fit the '32 frame.
I originally did the 1/4 elliptical/ladder bar rear when I built the 2004 NSRA giveaway roadster pickup as I didn't want the suspension showing behind the quick change rear end.
As requested here’s some other pics, I thought most of it looked okay but I’m definitely not an expert. Just that rearend wasn’t the typical thing I’ve seen on other model as on 32 frames. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd definitely work with what you have! I wouldn't junk it I'd change it to fit your needs. If you like the wheelbase then take the body off and change the rear to your liking while keeping your wheelbase measurements...
Boy howdy, you sure can tell who reads and who just looks at pictures. That side shot make it look like they hacked off the back end of the deuce frame to get it low and forgot or hasn't got around to finishing it. Probably in an attempt to get it "real low". Or haven't got around to finish it. Th wings on the X member to hold the shocks do look like an afterthought when the "oh crap we need shocks", thing came up. Second is Krylon32's shot of that Roadster #2 frame that shows a well thought out chassis. He still builds them too. And it isn't far to Nebraska from Oklahoma in road hours.
The original post pictures will work fine on a lower performance engine and or narrow tire car. If you are planning on more horse power and or wider tires, then...while the "same" setup can be used, I'd beef-up or get heavier bars. Larger diameter and more vertical supports. Mike
Yeah, some people might be confused but this isn’t my project, nor have I bought it yet. Yeah it did which made me want to post this since I hadn’t seen similar 32 frames like that. I’m thinking of a flathead build, so might go the way of just trying to find a stock a frame and boxing it or maybe just buying a boxed frame that I could use with a bigger engine. Not totally decided yet. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't see any huge problems with it. I might replace the tube crossmember that mounts the shocks with a more sturdy one, that will help prevent frame twist. Other than that, it's fine.
^^^^ 100% with gimpy^^^^^ Especially if your going with a flat head. Do a redesign of the crossmember and spend the rest of your time and money elsewhere...
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