Updated to include intake and exhaust measurements. Mcculloch vs57 dimensions. measurements in inches
^ what he said lol I posted it and included to words I was using to search for that info simply because it doesn’t seem to really exist out there and if I was looking for it I’m sure there’s more that are as well
Well I had time between appointments and ran over to @Joe H house this evening. Boy was I impressed! His pickup is so.. just perfect. Clean, neat and extremely well executed. it’s the kind of truck I could spend hours looking at the little details. All the hand made bits and pieces. I was thoroughly impressed and I’m super happy to have got to see his truck and talk to him tonight. On top of that the flanges he gave me look great and I’m looking forward to putting them to use soon. think he also sold me on the idea of an O2 sensor for an air/fuel gauge for tuning. I had a mask on but hopefully my giant smile was obvious
250 gasket for mocking up while doing laundry. Pretty dang close! It looks like my guess of two cuts and one weld and pretty close. the only thing I’m seeing that’s off is the very last hole for the stud is further back from the port on the 153 compared to the 250 but it may be close enough to slot because the flange has a bunch of room
You misspelled "to clear a supercharger*" Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app Looks like your on the right track with the flange. Modifying something that exists should save a boatload of time over scratch making one.
Originally I was going to modify a SBC flange but this is waaaay closer put the head lights back on and all the rust dust from the bulbs themselves got all over my clean buckets. Oh well Chipping away one 2 minute chance at a time
Quick question @Six Ball does your engine have dowls for the ends of the manifold set? I noticed today that the very first and last studs in the block are actually just dowels with no threads. They have a nice tappered/ beveled tip so I don’t think it’s something that got snapped off.
I think that stock they all had dowels on the ends, sixes too. I don't think sealing was much of a problem because the intake & exhaust manifolds were cast iron and bolted together. The dowels helped hang the heavy setup while you fiddled with rest of the mounting hardware. With the less ridged header flanges I have always used bolts or threaded studs on the ends. Studs still let you hang the exhaust while lining up the rest.
@Six Ball yeah that’s what I kinda figured. Going to leave them for mock up and decide whether they get a stud or a bolt based on how hard it is to fit. I lean towards a threaded stud because it’s generally easier to fish a nut onto a bolt than blinding trying to get a bolt threw and lined up. @Tman yeah he told me about how he used his and it just seems to make since if I’m going to drive the wheels off it. Still back and forth on a permanent gauge or not. And if permanent if it’s visible/ under the dash with a swing down, on the fire wall etc maybe I’ll stick a boost/ vacuum/ air fuel set of gauges in the header above the windshield where you don’t notice it at first but would be very easy to peak in and see while tuning. I’ve got a couple “not period correct” things I’m planning to hide there. Might make them hide behind the sun visor with it’s up or something similar
The "new" 261 for my Chevy had pins on the ends of the manifold set but the 235 that came out had bolts. I had the machine shop remove the dowels and thread the holes for bolts/studs.
Some times ya just gotta sprint to the garage, cut some shit up, and run back into the kitchen before the pit boils over lol. marked the cut lines. Dead center of the bolt holes. This is how the gasket was cut but it made the most since to me to line everything back up so I did as well. I was thinking if I slot the hole on the end to reach the Dowel that if I want to capped I can cut this hole into a U and weld it on. well here goes fit pretty dang good! I cut it just like the gasket was but the flange has flat edges top and bottom for the most part and I found when I lined them up that last port will line up perfect when the gap is closed. The hole doesn’t line up and will need dropped though. I guess if you had different tools or process you could have cut around the correct hole and jig sawed it all together but even given a second go at it I think welding half a hole shut and adding a half a hole is going to be less effort and time in the end I am thinking the back is going to need a little added material once it moved forward. After wiggling it into place I think a slot is going to work better than a hole so I’m thinking add some length to the tangs and use a fat washer.
Quick couple Of minutes in the vice and I’ve got it closer than I thought I would. I went back and forth between smashing it about 3/4 deep and 1/4 deep. basically when round it was close top to bottom with a little room to wiggle but side to side no go. so I smashed it side to side at 3/4 to fit and then more or less moved down and pinched the top to bottom into a squarish shape at 1/4. Which let the first smash side to side more or less stay put. bends very easy in my big vice. I think once you figure it out you could likely do one in minutes. It actually fits in the long narrow openings so I’m thinking this left over piece of flange could be used for a little bit of a hammer form. And if not it’s handy to be able to test fit a primary with out fighting it onto the car first. ryans going to weld the flange into one solid piece tomorrow night and then once it’s back I’ll start fitting primaries. got a new battery and a parts to finish the long ago started windshield wiper install in the 46 so I’ll probably shift to that while I’m waiting on the flange to come back
When I dropped off my flange for Ryan to weld back together he gave me back the hood I had him drive the pins out of so the side are free. It was stubborn and he’s got more time than I do at the moment so had him break it down. Don’t know if I’ll use these ones but eventually I’d like to be able to run a full stock hood, jist a hood top, just hot rod louvered hood sides or a full hood with hot rod louvered sides. this will let me at least mock those looks up and get some ideas for building a hidden spring loaded dead bolt useing the stock hinge pin loops. Something like this one shown. it would let me have the holes for the dead bolt pins be the same for just the top or just the sides. The handles would be threaded so I can slide the lock assembly out and stick a stick pin in and run it as a second complete hood. I need to see how thick the metal is on this set but I’m considering just keeping the handles, latch points and the hinge area and but welding on a whole new sheet full of louvers instead of trying to remove the stock louvers, fill the hole and then louver that. This hoods pretty fucking shot so if I’m gonna mess with it it’ll mostly be for bits and pieces last one isn’t a stock hinge or spring loaded but it’s a thought
Photo dump of the “new” running boards. I’m missing one outside trim piece but since I’m going to paint them I can probably make or find a rough one to use.
Haha @Six Ball they really are growing on me. Things are so stiff the last time I put air in the tubes I found they only had 3 pounds in them lol. Tire wasn’t compressed at all
Funny thing, My pickup has a slow leak in the right front. I was putting air in it at my son's and he decided to check the rest. The left rear was about like yours. Really stiff m&s tires. I really like how much better it handles with all 4 tires aired up.
Buddy made me a nice hardwood steering column wedge and stained it for me. Super pleased with it. Kept the holes small so I can run a small pilot hole drill threw it all so the dash holes line up. got the correct welding rod for the header/ intake flange yesterday so should have that in the next week or so and I can get back on the header project
The Jalopy Journal
