Found this randomly this morning https://www.cundnracing.com/PaxtonVS57InternalParts.html no idea if any of it’s current but it’s the first time I’ve seen something listing rebuild parts. six ball, yeah it didn’t look to crazy. I need to see one mounted. It looks like it’s bolted on using two timing cover bolts which doesn’t seem like much and the cover would need reshaped to clear
Found this mounted photo, looks like it’s using the water neck mounting holes to amount the top. it’s dang neat where this would need to go. I’m curious if the 235 and 153/250 bolts are spaced the same. mill have I do some measuring
I made this for my 250, if you can use the flange off it you can have it. I moved the carburetors to a different manifold.
Man that’s a neat set up all around @Joe H ! How thick is the flange? I’ll let you know if it’s something I can use I appreciate the offer
Searching the ch101 I found this one @ftwkustom posted a while back. Apparently they are hens teeth so I think I’ll end up facing something similar. But at least it’s something to reverse engineer
I'm not sure if the timing cover bolt spacing in the same but I doubt it. The timing gears are the same so crank to cam are the same. You have found some good stuff/ The parts source is very good. John Erb, the guy my son worked for, was working on ceramic balls to reduce rotating weight. Those steel balls are heavy and turning 16,000 rpm creates a lot of force. I don't know the status of those. He did design an improved impeller and front beating and seal. My son and I were at DMV a couple of days ago and we ran into our friend with his supercharged '61 Student Lark. As I was headed home they were "going for a ride". I haven't heard from either of them since. His unit is marked Paxton and he is running electronic TBI in a box.
Here is one I was working on and never finished, it too is for a 250 six. This one is 3/8" thick, the first one is 1/4" I believe. Not sure if it would help, but you might be able use the intake ports as spacers to give more room for the center exhaust.
If all goes well I’m going to try to mock up 3/8 clearance tonight. if reality sets in I’ll do it eventually lol
Stuck a 3/8 spacer on the stud and I think it may be enough with a tiny bit more shaving off the tubes. Looking at the flange I might be able to use the whole thing with a little slice and dice. I’m excited to find out. Hoping to get the 46 on the road again and make it over to Joe H in the coming week or so
Had an idea to do this and finaly got a chance last night thought you guys might dig it thinking if I set up a tripod and dedicated lighting I could make a cut away of the A when it goes together for final assembly
@Thor1 im a sucker for cut aways and seeing hot rod magazine covers with this effect. Realized the other day it would take me more time to take the photos than make the image so I just had to. @Inked Monkey when your little modified goes together make a mark on the ground or sit a bucket that you sit your phone on so the photos are almost all the same and I can do one for you if you send me the photos. I spot lit the engine and then shut those lights off for the photo with the hood shut for better color contrast but you wouldn’t have to. I’d just say if you did do different lighting for it going together and the “together” picture make sure that it’s all the same light source so when you cut away to see the brakes the shadows are going the same way as say the engine etc.
I like the cutaway shot. During my senior year in high school I was doing some "extra" work so I could graduate with my class. It was the first year the school had auto shop and there were few visual aids so to help make up for past sins I combined my metal shop class, auto shop class, and commercial art class work to make a cutaway of a single cylinder Tecumshe engine and a color coded chart that explained how a four cycle gas engine runs. I graduated (barely) and the next fall when I was struggling in JC I went to the Contra Costa County fair. There with a big blue ribbon on it was my cutaway and chart. It was entered as a class project for that years auto shop class. No mention of me at all. It was exactly as I had left it. It hurt my feelers.
I’ll edit this if I got something wrong but @Six Ball helped me get some measurements that I couldn't find only and I thought I’d share vs56 mcculloch dimensions in inches
Made an educated guess that the hose connection that’s not in the center is 3 and 3/8 and 3D modeled myself a blower because guys it’s 2020 let’s get fancy lol Cat food can is the wrong diameter and a little to long but I figure the length doesn’t matter because it takes a hose there anyways and I mean it’s amazon and Cheerios boxes guys it’s not dead on lol
You think thats bad? I had a senior Advertising project stolen by a Professor. A few months later the SAME WD-40 ads started playing nationally on TV, verbatim to my story boards.
This was also tested on motortrends engine masters and showed dimpling like this particularly on a street car motor didn't really have many bad side effects and didn't really sacrifice power either Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Plenty of room! it’s more or less lined up so that the pulley would kind up with the second groove in my crank pulley. Had about 3 Minutes to quick look and see so I just taped it quick and left. didnt mess with seeing if the mounting surface was even with the front of the block like the 235 bracket yet but I will. it might have to be raised up a bit to give spark plug/plug wiressome more room but on initial mock up I think we’re good! Kinda curious how much you see it from the other side because it’s all you see from the passenger side lol Might open the hood and throw same tape or a string across wear the hood side hinge is to see what the room really looks like.
And in a hood note any one recognize these rubber bumpers? Haven't looked that hard but all I’m seeing for A’s is a rubber block that slides over the shaft of the latch and doesn’t bolt to the hood. not that a hunk of rubber is hard to make but I’m curious either way Edit. I think they may be 30-31 or aftermarket after looking at the variety available
That looks good. I'll get the other measurements in the morning. It was a busy day. I think it will have to clock counter clockwise so it sits with the dip stick at the middle of the inside of the snout. That kicks the outlet further out toward the hood.
Having seen them clocked all sorts of ways I never thought about that. I’ll give that a look and adjust a quick scroll up and look at the one on the 235, it’s clocked like this with the dip stick correct. I bet you can take the back lose and clock it how ever you want with in reason and bolt it back together
I didn't think of that. The snout is just a housing I think and can probably be rotated. My "repair manual" got here yesterday. It's just a bunch of copied pages that I could have copied from the internet. Oh well, It is good information and we have it. I'll start reading it. I did look back at the 235 and it is definitely clocked more to the inside.
I printed probably 60-70 pages in the last week. Gonna set to reading and loosely memorizing it next week. Gonna try to get the flanges offered to me tomorrow afternoon and I should have some running boards showing up tonight or tomorrow as well. chipping away at it, going to order some odds and ends from macs for both cars. They’ve got the wood blocks and hardware for the hood shelves cheaper than I could make them. Looking forward to being able to latch the hood for real
The Jalopy Journal
