Projects '62 Bel Air

The wheels I bought say the following on the back.

Mickey Thompson Equipment Co.

Medallion

14x6.5

Tires hold air but are cracked pretty bad. Have 18 lug nuts and 1 cap. Should clean up real nice. No curb rash that I see. $180.




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Good score.

 

I've never done it, but I'm wondering if a Mother's Powerball & polish will make them sparkly again. Just a double-check they are the right diameter lug circle, yes?

 

I would say so. They came off a '64 Impala SS.

 

gotta56forme, you were correct in thinking a Mother's Powerball (actually I got a cone shaped one) and polish would make them look good. Got the 2 on I can get to. Mechanical stuff will be next, get it running. This won't be quick, but the wheels on it make me want to get it running NOW!!

 

^^^^^^^^ They look great.

 

It lives. Seems like it's been forever since I posted anything. Since then I drained the gas tank. Gas was dark, but didn't smell too bad. No sediment or rust came out, so I think the tank is good. Brake pedal was hard. Like wouldn't move hardly at all. After a friend and I got it running, I took a quick spin around my little town. Real slow speeds. It would stop, but took a lot of pressure. Got new tires on the rims and put them on the car. Looked at it last night with my friend that knows much more than me. Replaced both front rubber brake lines. And now the brakes feel like they should. Car runs good and stops good. Picked up my older son and we took a short drive. Gotta get the title from Dad and get it licensed and insured, then drive the heck out of it. Still a few things to do to it, but the major things are (I hope!) done.

 

Congrats! What a great old car.

 

Thank you sir. I agree. Just felt right driving it.

 

Old cars are a challenge and take time to sort out. When I got my Ford, I put it on 4 jack stands and dropped the brakes 100%. I was going discs up front, rear new wheel cylinders, spring kits. The drums had never been cut. All new soft hoses.

Drums up front and a single master is good, but replace the master. It will fail sooner than later from moisture on the rubber parts and that ring of crud that develops from sitting.

 

Thanks for the advice! My son is getting married August 29th. He wants to drive off in this car. So it's basically ready for that. But over the winter, I'll probably replace everything in the brakes, just to be sure.

 

Question for all. Is there a way to tighten a side mirror like this? It won't stay put, the ball and socket are too loose. Is my only option to buy a new mirror?

 

I like the car! It's running and driving, I would drive it daily as it is until it tells you it needs something more. Do the work, then back to driving. These old cars are just so nice going down the road and yours doesn't look like it's worn out yet. Maybe I missed it, is it an automatic or 3 on the tree?

Devin

 

Thanks Devin! I drove it to work the last 2 days. Running good, but I think a lifter or 2 haven't pumped up yet. Going to run some Seafoam to see if it will free it up. It's a 235 inline 6 with a 2 speed Powerglide. Not a performance car, but It'll get out of its own way!

 

I prefer automatic transmission fluid over sea foam. Put in half a quart and drive it 100 miles do your next oil change the detergents clean up some gunk slowly. Do this a few times.

If you try to clean it all at once, aggressive degreaser - magic in a can etc, you run the risk of clogging your oil pick up. No knock on seafoam. It took years to build up engine crud, try to clean it slowly.

Great car.
Hoses - change them all, pay attention to fuel system get hoses rated for ethanol.
Coolant, back flush with water and put in new. No need for aggressive cleaners unless you have a cooling issue.
Tune up, plugs, check wires with multimeter or replace, Set points, timing, clean carb. If you can set it by vacuum youll get the best tune up. Replace any vacuum hoses.
Brakes, as squirrel suggested change all rubber parts, rebuild wheel cylinders, clean service lube the rest. I imagine your master cylinder is shot. Look into changing to dual master - its a safety upgrade thats worth it to me. Look at brake lines closely, see if any need replacd or are weeping, if theres any fluid present on them they will blow during a hard stop.
Service trans and rear.

I daily drove a 65 impala 4 door straight six powerglide for about a year in the mid 90's. Plenty of power, drove great, good mileage.

Get some miles on the car, go have fun

 

Dual pot master, start looking at 1967 impala drum drum master cylinders, manual or power, depending in what your car has. Its a good start, will have similar weight and distribution. Theres a deep and shallow version of master cylinder that has to match up with your pushrod.
Its been a while since I dug into it and dont remember all the specifics. Hopefully someone will chime in.

Point is, you can swap to a standard factory dual pot master cylinder from a few year newer model with a little homework, no need to pay extra from the specialty companies.

 

Thanks!! I appreciate the advice and help. A dual master cylinder is something I want to do. Currently there are no brake leaks anywhere. Both front rubber brake hoses have been replaced, and I have the back one to do.

 

Regarding the floppy mirror, I once read how to fix that on the Chevy Talk thread but forgot how. I just ended up buying a reproduction and have been very happy with it. That was for my OT Malibu. Something about removing that large snap ring around the glass and you can access the swivel inside.

 

Sweet car. Nice hiway beast. I’m sure you know, once you start driving a car after it’s sat, things steadily fail as you go, lots of dry/old seals and bearings etc. But fixing them and learning is 1/2 the fun. Luckily a lot of things for a 62 Chevy are still available (maintenance stuff, expendables)


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Oilguy and clunker, thanks!! I will probably only drive it here and there until my son's wedding. He's driving off in it. After that, the more invasive fixes will start happening.

 

I’ve been wanting to do this to my 64 but I’m a little lost on what to do as far as running a new line for the rear. Cap the passenger side tee and follow the new line right next to the oe one?

 

So I have been driving it off and on, and then engine was still ticking. Found out why.


The very front rocker had worn the groove away on the inside, and rocks back and forth the way it shouldn't. It'd been clogged for a while. My friend did a compression test on all the cylinders before we ordered the parts to know if this engine was worth saving. Compression ranged from 143 to 150. Located a reconditioned rocker assembly on that auction site. Parts arrived and were as described in real good shape. My friend worked on clearing the oil passage through the block while I was at work, then I helped him reassemble everything. For the first time in a LONG time, the engine is nice and quiet! I have ran some ATF and Seafoam in the oil for a few days, and changed the oil yesterday. It is SOOOOO nice to drive this car without that darn annoying tick in the engine.

 

Also did some Glamour Shots in my back yard.

 

Has anyone ever tilted back just the back of the front bench seat in one of these? Going to look at that tonight.

 

Back to the top for the evening crowd.
RC


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I'd put steel wheels painted the same color as the car with hub caps. A three on the tree would be fantastic in that car.. Cars like that look best completely stock.. I would have some wheels made up from factory centers and have 7" hoops installed on them or use Wheel Vintiques 15X7 Series 62 wheels with the Stock Chevy hubcaps. Those hubcaps for that year are very nice looking..

 

^^^^ I Agree ^^^^.
Even if you used 14" steel wheels because you already have the tires.

 

Thanks guys, but the slots are staying. Dad bought the car in '96, and it always had stock hubcaps on it. I actually have 2 sets of them. I always imagined what it would look like with slots on it.