Projects Model A Ford Pickup Build

Back in 1961, my father and grandfather bought this 1929 Model A Pickup. My father drove it between farms for a handful of years before parking the truck in a garage on their farm. In 1973, he built his shed and moved the truck into it's long term home where it sat until I finally convinced him to let me take a stab at bringing it back to life this past November (2019). He had always wanted to restore it back to it's original condition and wasn't always keen on the ideas I had for it. After trying to sell the truck and dealing with people who basically wanted it for free, he decided it was better to let me have a chance at building it into a hot rod.

I had plans to turn it into a post-war style rod but as flat head V8 deals fell through and costs began to mount, I decided that I would follow the hot rod tradition of build it with what you have access to. As I started sharing the below pics with my friends via Facebook, I had a relative who was kind enough to hook me up with a power plant and transmission for the right price (damn near free) and the direction changed a bit. I've spent the last 8 months getting it to the point you see below and thought it was time to start my own build thread (I'm only allowed 30 pics, so a second string of them will be coming shortly). I've been watching many builds via the HAMB since learning of it while in college some 19 years ago.

We pulled the motor and trans while at my parent's place, and once making the three hour trip to my house, my son and I started the rest of the disassembly! It's now a 4 generation project and hopefully that's where it stops as a project and becomes a family heirloom.

In taking this on, I've taught myself how to tig weld, including the patients that takes, so please don't be too critical of the welds you see . I've also kept Vern Tardel's book close by to help me along the way. Though the build direction has veered off slightly from the mechanical side of a post-war era build, there are many things I'm trying to do to keep as many visuals in a form that hopefully will resemble the post-war era of hot rodding! Thanks for looking and following along and I'm always open to advice as I have a huge learning curve ahead of me!

 

Nice truck! really like the multi generational aspect.

 

More pics from the past 8 months: New parts, frame back from sandblasting, and boxing the frame (leaving room for future fabricated center cross member !

 

And a few more pics: Cleaning off 45 years of dirt from the shed floor, new motor, transmission post rebuild, ford 9" that is now needed with the newly acquired 400 hp motor (I had a banjo from a '47 ford but need something stronger now), and a pic of future stance to get the measurements for stepping the frame!

 

And finally, some work inside the cab, stepping the frame, fabricating coil over mounts, and removing the center cross member in prep for motor mounts and fabricating of the new cross member! That's if for now, I'll upload more progress as I make it.

 

Nice project, if the fenders and aprons are original to the truck it’s a early 1931. The phone booth style cab went from 1928 to early 1930. Then the cab you have was mid 30 and later.


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Thanks for the info. The title they got when they bought it says 1929 but I have been thinking it had many features the indicated it was a later year. However, the title says '29 so that's what I'm going with when I register it .

 

Worked on shortening the Ford 9” this weekend that will handle the 400 hp. Shortened to 56 inches and mocked it up with some truck tires that are similar size to the pie crust cheaters that will go on the final version.


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Spent the last couple of weekends fabricating motor mounts and center cross member/trans mount. Pretty happy with the results. Next step is to finish boxing in the frame around the new cross member.


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Finished up the boxing of the frame and took another 4.75” out of the axle housing to get a proper fit (it went much faster the 2nd time ). I think the frame repair and strengthening is finally complete! Now on to spend more money to get the parts I need to get it to rolling chassis.

Anyone know of any steel smoothies for a reasonable price? Coker is back ordered until July for the ones I was looking at.




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looks like a 30-31

 

Making good progress! Glad it stayed in the family.

 

Looking good, great project. Here's mine flathead Merc & a two & a half inch chop.

 

The number they use on the title would be stamped on the top side of the left rail right under where the cowl would set. I see that you have done some sanding on the top side so the number should be easy to see, or gone. The number will start and end with a *.

Addition
Looking back at your pictures, the spot where the number is looks intact so you should be able to see the number. If the number doesn't match your title, forget what I have written, paint it well and cover it up with the cowl.

 

Example stolen from the web:
Looking good so far. Your rear shock brackets are oriented the wrong way. As the suspension moves it will be loading the bushing side to side instead of on he axis of the bolt. It'll work but is wrong and will lead to bushing wear/failure. Also, you should wait with the upper mounts until you have the lowers set. The further outboard the mounts are the less the chassis will lean while turning or with a single driver/rider.

 

not to be a naysayer but where did you arrive at the # 400 for hp. just asking taking a stock 200hp engine to 400hp is quite a job. not saying it is not just asking what the specs are . the truck is looking really good. Tom

 

Cool project.

 

Sweet! Keep the sparks flying and do something on it every week. (no matter how minor).

 

Thanks for pointing that out, I will re-evaluate and take another stab at it! Hate to do things twice but it's easier when it's at this stage vs a few months from now!

 

That is a very nice looking truck! I hope I can make mine look close to that nice!

 

The motor was built by a motor shop and used as a giveaway at the Back to the 50's car show in MN a couple of years ago. A family member bought it from the gentleman that won it (the winner didn't have a project to put it in) and the HP rating is what it was advertised as for the giveaway. The reality is it could be less than that but that was what was quoted to me, and realistically I'd be ok with less horsepower given how light this truck will be as compared to that much HP. I'd like to go fast but also be safe.

 

It’s been way too long since I updated so here are some updates though not huge progress with the cold Wisco winter.

Mounted the front hair pins:




Fabricated new upper rear shock mounts to replace the incorrect ones I originally fabricated (thanks to you guys for helping me avoid that headache down the road...I greatly appreciate it):


Mounted my new wheels and tires and did a full mock up this week to get final measurements for the firewall recess and rear ride height in prep for tacking in everything needed back there! **Please note that the whole body (cab and box) need to come forward 3.5” so things are off in the mock up**






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If it were me I would think about an x brace in that frame as 400hp might cause some twisting . Seems like a bit of strengthening would help

 

Good advice...an X-brace...or legs to create a "K". You need some triangulation to strengthen that chassis.

Very cool project. Thanks for sharing.

 

More progress over the last few weeks! Removing the fuel tank (cutting it out to make room for the reversed firewall). Working on reversing the firewall which has involved cutting the recess tab around the perimeter and reversing it so it fit better in the new orientation.

This is my first ever attempt at welding body panels and good practice for the future projects of the lower passenger cowl and cab bottom across the back. I’ve gotten lost of practice with my hammer and dolly set.

I also took time to put some Eastwood rust encapsulation products to work on the axle housing and 3rd member (sorry I didn’t grab pics of that).

Still a lot of work to do on the firewall but I’m really happy finally having it fitting well around the outer seam(last pic)!


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First off, I want to say that I love the truck. I love the fact that it is a family thing and project. I don't have that luxury.
But I feel I have to say this and it's hard because you have put so much work in to it. I was first concerned when I saw the wear patterns on the front tires in the original post. And then later when I saw the bent frame horn on the passenger side it pretty much confirmed it.
I'm almost positive that the frame is bent.
If you take a triangular measurement from corner to corner you will probably come up with two different numbers.
I just don't want to see you spending time and money to find out the truck will not steer, stop, or handle properly.
Get a new frame. It's worth the cost and you will be happier in the long run. I'm sorry, I truly hope that I am wrong.

 

Thanks for pointing out. The frame did have damage from an accident in the 40’s from what I could tell. I spent a lot of time last year removing the very well done repair work done from back then and working out the frame. A diagonal measurement is about 1/32” off from corner to corner now and sits perfectly level. The last adjustments were locked in with the chromoly center cross member. I will be further strengthening everything with the support structure I have planned as part of the mounting surface for the ladder bars. I certainly could be wrong, as this is my first build, but given my measurements are so close I had decided to press on. Thoughts after hearing more detail?


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Good stuff, thanks.

 

I don't know. A 32nd is close but it is still a football field if you understand what I mean. Adding strength to a frame is always good, but it won't straighten it.
I think if it were mine, and I wanted to keep the frame if I can. I would only do what is absolutely necessary to get an alignment reading. A skilled front end man will be able to look at the print out and the frame and give you a pretty accurate idea of what it might take and what it might cost to fix it.
The other option is to just buy a new frame. Set that one to the side and use it in a project that isn't as important as family history. I think later when there's a real possibility of the truck eating tires and fighting with the steering it would be worth the cost.

 

These are the tools that they used to measure a frame in that time period, you can also use a tape measure and string to do the same thing, thats all we had before frame benches and all the others alignment equipment we have now. I straighten a lot of frames with a frame dozer and floor tie down’s before we had dedicated benches and lasers and electronic measuring equipment. Frank 1/32 now you are splitting cunt hairs