Hi all bearded and non bearded old timers! Can I use the oil psi to pump out oil? Then for every quart pumped out I can refill from top - or should I just do conventional drain/refill? I got a 4 banger at the shop i rebuilt (bored er out on the old van norman 20 over) - unfortunately she wiped a cam lobe so replaced with good used (yes matched lifters). Tried doing a quicky on er buy just dropping oil pan and removing rod bearings and a good crank case clean etc - but she had more metal coming thru so tore here down COMPLETELY last week. Spent the whole today meticulously cleaning the lot - the oil pan alone took about 10 washes before the glitter was gone. Same with block, heads etc - removed the oil galley plugs, cam plug, removed head, oil pump, EVERYTHING got cleaned with gas and checked 4 times (im SUPER meticulous). After running for 10 mins this even im so dismayed to once again see some particles in the oil!!! 2moro im buying 4 oil cans and 4 filters and gonna flush the living heck out of this thing. The rod bearings looked god, mains too - cam fine, thrust bearing good, I cant find a single darn smoking gun apart from the fact that it wiped a lifter (BADLY) before teardown- At my wits end!! Dont mention a tohatsu 9.8 which carb just keeps flooding (had it off 15 times now and ive been doing carbs for 20 years!), oh adda ford 5.0 with 3 attempts to get intake to seal right!
fyi - checked rod bearings for giggles and it was spot on - 1.5 thou.. everything in the bottom end looked real good- motor had maybe 10 hours on it before lifter (and cam) was gone - i verified during the cam swap that the pushrods were rotating -
Not drunk I think it's not written out clearly apologies.. I assembled it from scratch yesterday after a complete teardown and clean and idled for 10 minutes.. still signs of glitter. I'm wondering if there was some residual left overs inside the block or oil pressure relief cavity causing this, everything was squeaky clean. to recap: bored and assembled yr ago. wiped a lobe so removed oil pan, cam, rod and main caps, cleaned everything in crank incl oil pan then re assembled. ran for an hour, still metal signs. I'm hoping 3 consecutive flushes will clean it up complete teardown and meticulously cleaned it. washed oil pan 10 times alone, oil galleys etc. Re assembled the lot yesterday and STILL some glitter! no spun rods or anything. I'm hoping 3 consecutive flushes will clean out the remnants
I've seen in some manuals from years ago to use diesel to flush an engine, BUT years ago diesel had enough sulpher in it that it was somewhat oily and it would carry out the crap, todays diesel is like water no lube to it, kerosene was also used for a flush.
I have used diesel many times - esp with a cracked head/blown gasket.. very good at washing out the milky stuff and thinning it out- just 1-2min runs max cold of course.. I was trying to ascertain if one could use the oil psi hole as an "out" and just run clean diesel as it comes out there - Is the oil psi port on inline GMs before or after the oil has gone thru the bearings/lifter galley etc? Grabbing 3 $12 oil jugs from HD this am -
If your still getting that much metal I would suspect something is eating itself apart. I used ATF in the past to flush couple of strong magnets on the pan to catch stuff Then drop the pan and clean. I dunno something does not sound right.with seeing that much metal after a complete and thorough cleaning Pulled the oil pump a part and used bottle brushes and Blew air through all the oil passages ?
This is gonna sound mean and I hope that no one takes it that way but it sounds like someone did not assemble a clean motor.
Let see year's ago I used to Wash my Engines with TIDE & Air Than assemble the Engine Very carefuly & Make sure that there is nothing binding! Just my 3.5 Cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
That's not " mean" in any way , shape or form , seems there's a few who believe throwing good money after bad is somehow smart / traditional / whatever ??
crank turned fine after mains and caps - we spent 4 hours cleaning everything.. like i said the inside of the block was insanely clean - we used gas and an outboard pump to spray in there rotating / blowing off - I put in a good used OEM oil pump - the enginetech one I had was a piece of junk - it worked but i wouldnt want a chinese pot metal oil pump so ditched it.. I blew out every crevice i could possibly find - ran gas, brake cleaner and compressor thru all the oil holes, push rods, we disassembled each lifter - cleaned and re-assembled.. We went to TOWN on this thing - and not a single bearing has bad wear - this thing is giving me grey hair. Picked up 3 cans of $13 oil from HD - gonna run a diesel oil mix and do 5 consecutive flushes - Hence the question IF I could use the oil psi port to as a one way flush hole but I think draining via the oil pan will get the lower stuff out too.. I have done this many many times and for the life of me just cannot figure out what the heck is going on. Im wondering if the oil bypass on the block might have trapped sth (round burgundy/brown plug behind oil pump) - not sure if this is removable..
Are you sure it's metal? If you used any assembly lube you might be seeing the moly particles in it. People often are shocked at the amount of "break in wear" they see after the first oil change, but it's really just moly.
I would have taken the block and parts to the machine shop and had them vatted if I found all that crap in there from the beginning.
How about INSIDE the crank oil passages, INSIDE pushrods, INSIDE oil pump. You get the picture, many years ago a reputable engine shop said not to clean engine parts with gasoline because it left a residue. Thats what they said I don't know enough to prove or disprove, just stating what I was told. Good Luck, Pat
I would use the magnet to try and catch some of the glitter to see if it from the cam lobe or bearing material. And don’t pump gasoline around for a cleaner you could end up with a new hair do.
well removmed cam bearings - my neighbor was a chief engineer for a funny car team so knows a few things - he looked it over a few times and told me the stuff was def babbit - only bearings i didnt change were cam bearings - they looked pretty ok but waiting for a new set- Will hopefully have it back together this week or next and see what happens :/
Thats what I was thinking, if you drain the break-in oil and shine a light on it it looks like fine metalic paint. As long as there is no metal particles your fine.