Technical Towing capacity AGAIN

well, this thread got pretty far away from the original question, eh?

 

Thanks the previous owner pulled all over the US drag racing, with this trailer, with no problems. I just bought the motorhome , the bought a smaller trailer. So I should be good!

 

did you forget where we are?

 

I’ve read multiple times that drum brakes and single circuit master cylinders are sure to result in a fiery death...wonder how long I have left....


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I've been killed by them 8 times already....

 

When I was in the Army stationed above Reno I had a '63 4x4 1/2 ton carryall with a 327 and a 3 on the tree. I bought a '56 Chevy wagon for a buddy and towed it to SoCal down 395. Going down the Sherman grade coming into Bishop the brakes got pretty soft but it was 2am so no traffic. When I got on the flat the brakes seemed OK so like a dumb 22 year old I keep going . Dropped the car off at around 6am and went to my parents to hit the sack. When I got up I decided to check the master cylinder. Bone dry. Must have boiled all the fluid out on the way down the grade. Dodged a bullet on that one. From then on I was pretty anal about brakes. Other stuff not so much. It's a wonder I survived to old age.

 

“ vans wagons trucks”

 

Why??
Plenty of smaller than typical old u.s vehicles are rated for that. I just don’t want one for
This project idea

 

There are lists I’ve seen them but I can’t find much for this era.
I also did the google thing which never came up with much except more typical bar talk

 

agreed and all my main towing trucks are the other fuel newer and manuals

 

55mph yes exactly I’m fine with that

 

agreed 3/4 or 1ton or burb type vehicle was allways the plan not a 1/2 ton.
Just wanted to know which I can choose that have data to back it up

 

Probably back to around 1970.

You could use that data to extrapolate...but without knowing what you want the data for explicitly (your own curiosity? your insurance company? the trailer manufacturer? your lawyer? or judge?) we can only guess whether that will satisfy you.

 

I haven’t seen them either . Well not much anyway.
And yes GVWR isnt the question
And upgrades allthough useful won’t help Much in court

 

Im happy to break hamb “rules” regarding brakes

 

I vaguely remember seeing something on a Stovebolt forum years ago too but I was hoping for other brands to also compare

 

Well I had a quick look at that heritage gm site even went up to 1980 and still no trailor cap mentioned (that I noticed anyway.) I know there’s laws around it so how can you prove that your within the law?
Plus those “ heavy half” versions

Slightly o.t but..
I see car haulers made from old 1 ton dually frames
And pick ups extended with a beavertail which although can move it easy enough ( moving and being able is NOT in question )
legally they must be useless!
and that’s with the easily found gvwr . good luck arguing that on the side the road or after a wreck

 

If your concerned about legality and having documentation.

try contacting an engineering firm.

we use them all the time at work for exactly this.
Added weight to a forklift counter weight
Attachments and/or any modification from factory
Adding booms and cranes
Longer forks etc.

bring in the engineeering company they sign off put a tag on the unit stating it’s all good and we are legal and. Safe to carry on.


If any other modifications are required they let you know what needs to be done and how etc.
Takes the guess work out of this stuff and keeps everything safe and legal for everyone involved.

 

Buick.jpg here you go!

 

The engineering firm needs numbers to start with, there are no initial numbers on the older vehicles...that's his problem.

I guess if you want to have numbers so you can be sure you're legal, then you need to stick with modern tow vehicles.

I've never been hassled with old stuff. I've also never had an incident that would bring the legality of my rig into question. Perhaps a careful reading of state laws, where you plan to travel, could put your mind at ease that what you plan to do is legal. If there is no stated load limit, then you can't possibly exceed it, can you? but if the limit is stated in the owner's manual, or a tag on the car, then you can exceed it.

You don't need an old car forum, you need a legal forum.

 

I can tell you that in my case it is a 1959 Cadillac limousine (5,900 lbs) on a 20 foot car trailer with dual axles (2, 250 lbs). Thank goodness there is electric brakes on BOTH axles. Pulling with one ton dually car hauler bed (usually with 50s GM on it too). Makes that 454 earn its keep.

1 more car I promise, Rex Winter
Dry n windy Lubbock TX

 

Oh well another dead end.
I tried.

 

you are correct squirrel.
At my job we have modified and built custom attachments for forklifts and wheel loaders.
Clamps, booms, screens etc.

called in the engineering company that specializes in this type of thing.
The measure, calculate, question and go back and forth a few times until they get what they need.
Tell us what and how to build it
Once it’s done they indie t and attach there tags to it.
Not cheap but required so no one gets sued for being stupid.

 

@carpunker

I guess I really don’t see the problem. Pick a vehicle that has both a very stout chassis and a body style and appearance you can live with, and make whatever changes and modifications to the axle and suspension, springs, tires, wheels etc. that it takes to carry the loads you have in mind. Add enough horsepower and transmission capacity and you’re on your way.

If the body you most want didn’t come with a stout chassis, put one under it. Lots to choose from.

As I see it, it’s very little different than building any other hot rod from a wheezer to what ever level of performance you want/need.

Ray

 

Great video on effects of vehicle and trailer weight and weight placement.

 

In 1939 buick tried to save a few $ by shortening the frame, letting the body overhang. They had a bunch of unhappy farmers who loaded the trunk with bags of feed or wharever and the rear body developed a permanent sag. They
eventually changed the frame on newer ones, and issued a fix that was basically channel iron extensions. Can you imagine trying to tow something with that setup?

 

These "what vehicle do I need to tow my car" threads are always entertaining. On some other forums I'm on the opinions will wind up somewhere between you can tow a Cat D-9 with a Ranger pickup as long as you keep your speed down, to needing at minimum a crew cab dually with a diesel to tow your 1/4 midget on an open trailer. I'm exaggerating but you get my drift.
I think just using some common sense in selecting a capable tow vehicle probably makes more sense than forcing the mission on whatever heap you currently have parked outside.

 

This is absolutely correct. Towing a car on an open trailer vs and enclosed trailer is very different, pound for pound. Towing an empty enclosed trailer feels like you are dragging a parachute behind you.....before you put the car in it!