Have to re-run my upper brake lines to a firewall mounted master. Looking for nice looking ideas to borrow inspiration from. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Usually you're combination valve is installed close to the master ,then a couple loops and down the firewall .
Combination valve is on the frame. New booster is a couple inches shorter than old booster. I have them run this way now but having them kinda hanging out in space, they’re kinda in the way getting at the valve cover, carb, etc.. Thunking since I need to re-run them anyway, maybe trying to tuck them up under the master more. Follow the firewall over toward the centre, then come up along the bottom and front of the booster, under the master, then pop out in a loop to the fittings. Bunch of extra bends, will be something of a pain to get them to run parallel through a half dozen corners. Just looking for other ideas. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No loops needed as everything is mounted to the same body structure. Keep it simple, you will like the look. Once you get lines back to firewall you do need line brackets to minimize vibration on line. Phil
My 41 ford truck under construction. I had to mount the master (I think the PC term now is "primary" cylinder) on the firewall due to big 518 tranny, fun idea, I used 2 frame mount SS line brackets and used a snap rivet to clamp them together to space and brace the lines with SS gravel guard over them.
As long as there is no flex whatsoever in the firewall. You also need some flex in the transition from the firewall to the chassis. The loops are easy to do and work well to absorb vibration. Sent from my moto g(8) power using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have some of those SS clips. One on the firewall where the lines come up. Had to buy a whole bag, so lots of spares. Hadn’t thought of doubling them up like that. I like it. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you run your loops counter clockwise away from the master cylinder, instead of clockwise in towards it like now, you would come off the bottom on the outside of the loops. That might buy you the room to go straight back to the firewall beside the booster. Starting your loops with less of a drop (or no drop) would raise the horizontal farther above your valve cover.
I would bet part of the loop design is 2 fold, 1 for vibration and 1 for safety. My bet is the loops give extra length in case of a wreck. Instead of ripping the lines out of the nut it just unravels some loops. Lord knows thru the years and all the wrecks I've worked on I've seen those loops pulled many times. My 31 tudor will definitely have them but I'll put them under the power brake booster if I decide to run one.
Just finished this up on a 54 Studebaker. Master Cyl and booster /combo from Leeds brakes. Take your time bending the lines and it will look great. I like the look of lines with the stone guard.
David, I hope you aren't considering copper brake lines. Copper is not that strong and can crack more easily than steel, stainless, or nicopp. Phil
The mock up is copper wire, plumbing copper scraps left over from an ice maker I don’t have, and masking tape. The real lines are NiCop. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Front is done. Rear is mocked up using scrap. Hoping to get the rear bent up tomorrow, so I can bleed them. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My suggestion would be to come up on the other side of the booster .............or come up where you are at and then run them under the booster along the firewall. Then come from the motor side of the booster and come out from under the master cylinder with a 180 degree upward bend. That way the tubes don't look like an afterthought hanging out in the air. If you want the vibration coil (1 turn ?), it might be visually hidden somewhat by the booster/master cylinder as it comes off the firewall. Hope I described this sufficiently. Edit: Actually, after looking at the picture of the master cylinder again, it looks like your connections could be made on the other side of it and conceal the tubes even more.
No room on the other side. I’d have to pull the engine and transmission to get back there. There are no fittings on the far side to connect to. I was trying to come up under the booster and go around it, but couldn’t get that to work out either. Steering shaft is in the way there. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They’re in, bled, and ready for test drive. Hoping that I finally outsmarted that pesky smart brake fluid. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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