Well I am definitely interested in those! PM me with details please... By the way, I've always liked the four doors as they are what most people bought. They also make a very elegant hot rod when they are dressed with their fenders. Plus it's always nice to have more space for extended trips!
I'm amazed at your good fortune with parts. I went through the exact same thing building my 34 coupe. It was so cool! parts I truly needed just fell in my lap...so to speak. I really miss central Oregon. Went to high school and graduated from Redmond Union High. The sage brush and juniper trees always smell so good. Let me know when you plan to sell the Dodge coupe. Great lines but I thought the big 34 coupes had the opening doors on the hood sides..
'34 Plymouths had the opening hood doors, Dodge didn't. BTW, I put a for sale sign on the Dodge this last weekend. Speaking of parts, my friend brought me the original front fenders for this car this morning. One has some bullet holes like the body and both still have the original patina. Dave
I figured it was time for some updates! I bought a '32 Ford Pickup to get the dropped front axle, chrome spring, Lincoln Brakes and Buick drums. Got it hanging under the sedan. It has stainless steering arms but they locate the tie rod right in the middle of the wishbone. What drop steering arms do you guys recommend? Also I plan to run either a F-100 steering box or if that won't work, an F1 box. I have an F-100 mocked up in it now. Stuck a loop type upper steering arm on it so it will steer to move around. Right now there is a piece of rebar with bolts welded to it for a temporary tie rod so it will roll! I also mounted up the patina front fenders. Not sure which pair are in better (worse) shape but it looks better all one color for now. Tires and wheels are temp. Not sure what it will end up with. Dave
I love the axle, but I'd try to find some 37-48 spindles with stock arms on them. Then you can bend them however you need. And they'll never come loose. My sedan uses an F-1 box with the flange cut off and a 32 flange welded on. Gives you plenty of clearance for the pitman. Many guys have clearance issues with F-100 boxes unless they thin down the flange and basically cut a wedge into it. The F-1 box will give a little less foot room though as the column comes through the floor below the sector.
are the F1 and F100 columns longer, or do you cut them down, (or just have less room in the interior) ? Nobody seems to mention column length, when referring to the replacement. Thanks.
I had a buddy chuck my F-1 column shaft in his lathe and he cut a new taper, keyway, and threads on the end to fit a 40 Ford style wheel. No welding at all. They have a splined end on them originally. Most guys would probably want a taper to use the early style wheels. I think they all need shortening. How much depends on the year of the box (I know for sure the F-100 came in different lengths), the dish of the steering wheel you want to use, and your personal comfort.
Thanks Alchemy! Are you running a flathead in your sedan? If so, what do you have for exhaust on the drivers side? I have thought about stock 37-40 spindles. I think I have a right side one already. May look for a left. I plan to cut the flange off the steering box and do a '32 style flange. I measured the drop in the axle from the ground to top of king pin flat and from the ground to top of perch pin flat and got 5 1/4" difference. On the stock '32 axle I get about 2" or 2 1/8". Or maybe it was 3" or 3 1/8", CRS. That was yesterday! So what do I call this axle? 3" drop or 5" drop? The term was never all that clear to me. Dave
thanks, I just got a box out of what we call a ‘48 - ‘52 Bonus. I believe that it is the equivalent of the F 1, but I’m not that familiar with them. Measures about 80mm (3”) longer than the stock ‘32.
Yes I have a flathead, it's a 39-48 style block. I found a used header, but I needed to rework the back half of it to clear the steering box. When I added the 32 flange to the F-1 box I cut them about an inch and a half from the frame surface and made sure the CL of the mainshaft is the same as the stock 32. Then I had my machinist buddy cut a counterbore to put the F-1 sector seal in the end of the 32 flange.
Turns out I had a right side 37-40 round back spindle and I got a left side today. More work!! Installed the drivers door latch and inside handle mechanism yesterday. Yesterday and today I finally got back to work on my '33 Plymouth coupe project. It keeps getting interrupted by other fun projects. Dave
I'm back from a 37 day vacation dragging the '40 Tudor behind the M/H and attended the '40 meet in Springfield MO. Time to get going on the '32 again. I heated and jacked a dent out of the passenger side frame rail, then using the porta power I pushed the diamond out of the rear of the frame. One good push and it was square! Then went to work squaring up the front of the frame. It was a little tougher but got it right. Everything measures like it should now. Before, to install front axle and wishbone, I had to push the wishbone hard to drivers side to get the ball in place. Now it all just drops in where it belongs. Installed a new '32 trans mount and plate to the late 30's trans and bolted the mock up 59ab block to the trans to locate front motor mounts. Keeping it all Ford, I made the front frame mounts from Model T frame pieces! I have them clamped to the top inside of the frame rails. Does this look correct or do they need lowered about a 1/4"? Dave
I am not sure what you have planned to mount the master cylinder but thought you might find my approach interesting.
@Charlie Stephens , I have purchased a mount for the back side of the K member and 1 of the brake pedals I have has the arm welded to the bottom. I have seen your setup before as well and it looks like it is a good setup. Dave
What happened to your '34 4dr? here you go...https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...,\"upsell_type\":21,\"grouping_info\":null}"}
Accept my apology. For some reason the photos didn't attach to my earlier post. I started by bolting a plate to the K member using existing holes and welded the mount to the bolted on plate. The battery would have probably ended up on the left with todays small batteries. Charlie Stephens
Hmmm... That looks quite substantial and gives me ideas for how to mount mine. Somewhere along the line my K-member was removed so I'll need to fab. the whole Mary-Ann. Thanks Charlie!
I posted the info below on a thread asking about front brake shoes for my Lincoln brakes. Here is that info. Also, here is a link to that thread. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lincoln-brake-shoes.1248958/#post-14290188 Had a hard time finding the '71-'76 Chevy 12x2 shoes but finally did at rockauto. Only had one set and they were in close out so price was cheap! Shipping was a little more than the shoes but total with shipping was under $28. They are thicker metal than the ones I had so I had to get creative with the flap wheel and angle grinder. I got them all assembled and back on the car. I cut the notch in the adjusters a little wider and flap wheeled the shoes where the w/c pins slide over them. I think they will work fine, but that is still a long time off. Dave
Here is another thread in regards to my front axle. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-much-drop-does-my-32-axle-have.1248968/ Dave
When I was building my Tudor, I was faced with some PO caveman motor mounts and the late Bruce Lancaster told me to line up the crank ratchet bolt with the crank hole in the grille and that will set your engine height. Worked for me. Before. The fan hit the upper radiator hoses. After. Everything lined up with hole.
That's about where mine ended up. I built bolt in mounts that use the shock mount holes. Everything lines up now. Thanks, Dave
Got the motor mounts built and installed! Also changed the too short lug studs on the '40 hubs in the Buick 45 fin drums but forgot to take pics while they were apart Yeah, I know the front shock hole in the frame is cracked, gotta weld that up too! Everything is still in the mock up stage. Next is to blast and drill and rivet the front crossmember in. Here are some mount pics, etc. Dave
15 years ago we sold our place across the road. The buyer was anxious to use the shop so he "helped" me by loading up a bunch of my stuff in random boxes and loaded a flatbed trailer and brought it over and left it. Others helped load things as well. I still have boxes of things that I am unsure what is in them. I have been looking for my new set of adjustable flathead V/8 lifters for 15 years now. The box they came in got wet so I tossed them in a coffee can with oil in it. They were never to be seen again! Until today! I was looking for flathead exhaust manifolds and starters, etc, for the '32 and I ran across a coffee can full of misc old bolts and nuts. Hmm, I wonder? I started dumping them in my misc bolt bin and there in the bottom was 16 perfectly preserved adjustable lifters! Anyone ever convert an 8ba cam to run in a 59ab engine? I don't want to run the later timing cover and distributor. I know the other way around one can buy and adapter but I don't see a way to use what I have. Probably just get one for the 59ab. I found several exhaust manifolds that will work well. Both sides dump out about 3 inches back from the front exhaust port. Soaking the head studs with PB now. 6 or eight actually came out with the nut still on them. Engine will need a total rebuild I'm pretty sure. I have a couple 4" Merc cranks to use. If I remember correctly, this 59ab was in a '37 pickup an owner of a local parts store gave me years ago. He said it had a hot cam and was a runner but that was a long time ago. It did have an aluminum flywheel that I sold cuz I had no desire to use it. Dave
Well, believe it or not the heads came right off without removing studs! bumped them with a rubber mallet and they popped loose. It is ugly in there I have had this inside for probably close to 30 years in a heated environment so this must have been damp before that. It is .060 over and has adjustable lifters. Probably going to need .125 over pistons to clean up along with the afore mentioned Merc crank. It will be interesting to see what the cam looks like. Here are some pics before vacuuming out. I took a pick of the lifter galley afterwards but guess I forgot pics of the cylinders afterwards except for the cleaned off .060 over pic. I was really sweating getting the heads off! Dave
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