Projects 1955 chevy truck motor swap

Fixed the issue already and I've driven probably 15k miles since that happened so I feel it was fixed good. Thanks for the advice and yeah just misread your comment.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

He probably won't need to. The only issue is the thickness of the existing adapter plate.
His 235 engine is still using the correct front mounts which puts the back of the block in the correct position for the transmission. (Excluding the adapter thickness)
So his new engine will be slightly further back with the adapter plate removed.
He will need side mounts on the engine to control engine torque. ( early SBC's have the mounts at the front, but on 235's they on the sides at the front, therefore wider)
If he chose a 305/350 he could use an early 283/327 front pulley and short water pump to give clearance (if needed)
With the Vortec, I suggest measuring the overall length

 

Swapping in a SBC 350 vs. swapping in an LQ or LS motor are two very different things. I'd suggest you decide which you want to do first, and then you can look at how to do it.
The 350 SBC is a very easy swap, made even easier because you've already swapped the 200R into the truck. So you can use the same trans to swap the 350 in it. All you really need is the engine, and a motor mount for this swap. Then the usual wiring connections, and throttle cable, or linkage.
But the LQ/LS swap will require a lot more than just motor mounts, and wiring. A lot more wiring, and a new fuel tank with in tank electric fuel pump. Of course the computer and harness to run it, or retrofitting the LQ/LS to carb and distributor to eliminate the computer and wiring.
Either is OK, but one will take a lot more time and money.

The lowering process can be done via flatter springs, or a new axle with axle above springs instead of below as the factory did it. I'd suggest a disc brake swap also on the axle when you do the V8 swap, so you can haul the truck down to a stop better. Speedway sells a disc brake kit for your stock front axle that's a very easy swap, and will really improve braking. Around $235 if I recall correctly. Just did it on the '58 Chev truck axle I put under my '39 Chev coupe.

 

Well, everyone has their own opinions and this is mine. If it were my truck to be used as you do, I would completely rebuild the suspension, have the axle dropped a couple inches (Sid's?), add good disc brakes, and drop in a slightly warmed 327 or 350 with a TH350. Many miles of enjoyable driving ahead.

 

Thank you guys for all the info, will try and get to gathering my stuff to make the swap doable in a weekend.

 

You could also put a 292 6 cylinder in it

Sent from my SM-J737T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Send this guy a message, he's looking for exactly what you're getting rid of

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/upgrade-56-chevy-3200.1197696/

.

 

my worthless advice
I tore into a truck at a young age and never fixed it, my skills and tools were smaller than my aspirations.
KEEP IT SIMPLE
the engine swap is easy, plenty of info on that. dont clip unless ya are a proficient welder. Nothing wrong with that straight axle, you an even have it dropped if ya want it lower

 

That's aggressive, those that did it "back in the day"...I think stretch a bit on their recollection.

Sure, you could pull out a 283 and put in a 327 over the weekend, but I guess those who went from an inline engine to a V8 had a shelf full of parts to pull from...heck...throttle setup, radiator hoses...god forbid heater hoses, then theres wiring for different locations of the sending units. I mean I know I have engine mounts and crossmembers just within arms reach to get it all done in a day.....hell...sure they pulled a 6 into the garage on the morning and "pushed a V8" out at night.

 

just did a v8 swap on a 61. the truck originally had a 235. The wiring was easy, had to stretch the water sending unit wire and shorten the oil sending unit wire. The wire from the starter solenoid to distributor had to be stretched. The starter wiring from the switch was good. I used a V8 bell from a mid 60s truck and bolted in the stock 6cyl mounts. I was able to use the clutch fork from the 6 as well. I fabricated my own engine mounts. The 6cyl radiator works just fine. The 5 upper radiator hose would have swapped if It were still usable
An HEI might hit your firewall, I used a small cap MSD.
I cut the gas lever and flipped it to work with the v8 then rewelded.
you stock trans will bolt to a V8 bell, mine did.
updated the rear, measured the U joint and bought a combo to work with the later yoke, then shortened the drive shaft 1 inch cause the rear I used had a longer yoke. You can probably skip this step.
Mine had a hydraulic clutch so I built a mount for the factory slave

if yours still had a generator we can work ya through that too

 

Superslides, Bilstein shocks, a king pin job, disc kit and some radials really made a difference on my truck. Rides nice a smooth, got a nice drop, steering is plenty responsive, bump steer is all gone and it stops better. It took some work but I enjoyed doing it. I didn’t want to clip and glad I did not. You can still drive it while swapping things in one at a time if you need it for daily use.

 

Do you guys believe that a engine making 350hp is to much for a stock frame and stock rear end. I know a 200-4R is rated at for around 550HP but curious what else will need fixing if I decide to go with a motor with that hp or if I should just go lower price motor making around 200hp. I'm currently just looking online for a crate engine

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

@Vincent Garcia

The chassis can readily handle 350hp. Although I am an avid fan of the 2004R trans, in stock form they are not capable of handling 550hp, at least not for very long. They can be built to that spec, and were in Buick Grand Nationals, but not the everyday units in other models.

Ray

 

True I do expect to run into something like always but might as well aim for the sky and try and it in a weekend or two

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm not wanting to hit 500 hp, honestly I'm more than happy with even getting past 300hp because my current setup I would assume is around 100hp unless adding the dual carbs and intake to the motor does a huge difference

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Realized I never put pictures of my truck and would like to share with y'all the current setup it has. Still torn on switching it up but thing a V8 would look nice but I love being the only one at car shows with an inline 6 but also confuse people because it sounds like a v8

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

That is simple, put a 292 in it ^^^

seriously though, what do you enjoy the most? Showing it or driving it?

 

Honestly both. But it ain't the prettiest and I want a truck to be able to have a little bit of fun in so personally want a fun driving truck

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I like it, looks like a nice truck. I would replace that battery hold down though.

Make what you have work 100% before you change anything. Then you can start with things that bother you.

 

Build a "Sleeper"

Get a complete 65-66 283 engine and swap out the 283 shortblock for a roller cam 350 shortblock. [sell the 283 shortblock]

Paint it orange and it'll look old skool with the short waterpump , oil filler tube in the manifold, ramshorns and power pack heads Etc etc etc!

You'll end up with a 1 point bump in compression [8.6:1 to 9.6:1] with the power pack heads, but the smaller ports and valves will make it really strong down low.
[GM also used power packs on 327's which is only 23 cubes less]

The 1 piece rear seal of the roller shortblock means it wont leak oil, but you'll need a later flexplate and it'll bolt straight up to your 200-4r trans.

When you car kicks into OD and locks the converter ,it will be very pleasant to drive on the freeway.
Down in the lower gears around town, with all the low down torque from the engine it will be a real "Boulevard Bandit"
And everybody will surprised when you lift the hood [A fun vehicle]

What this is doing is copying the 305 heads on a 350 mod [or the Chevy L98 engine]
With the roller cam, you can get a high lift short duration cam for more torque.
Keep the carb small [500 CFM will feed 300 HP @ 5000 RPM]

Edit: You need to add "283 Turbofire 195 Horsepower" decals to the valve covers

 

Can't get rid of the ratrod strap I got going on. That belt has served this battery tray and several batteries for over 30 years

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Not the best with engine but I understood about half that. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/0282K2/10002/-1 been doing some research for a while and want this due to the head and swapping over a cam so I can make around 350hp, possibly install and ride it around and break in the motor and later on maybe a year from now pull it out and swap out the cam. But a sleeper build would be ideal. Just want to lower it a bit and fix the rust and paint it later on

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If you can do a head gasket replacement,then you can do what I described above ^^^. Just about everything I mentioned is external. Note :You will need roller cam pushrods and distributor gear.

The other way to create an old skool look is simply get a roller cam engine and swap pulleys, water pump and intake manifold /carb ,distributor etc
Then buy some adaptors to change centrebolt valve covers to the early style.

Then paint it and add decals to disguise it.[this method won't fool everybody , but it will keep the basic engine in one piece, and get you on the road quicker]

edit: with that link you posted, you'd be up to $4500 in no time.
You'd need to add........
Pulleys, Fan, Waterpump, Alternator, Alt brackets, Belts, Fuel pump, Thermostat housing and Thermostat, Air filter, Exhaust Manifolds, Exhaust flanges, Engine mounts, Starter motor, Flexplate etc

I cant help but think you could pick up a 3rd Gen Camaro or 85-94 Impala parts car for less than that. [I picked up an 84 El-Camino with a 350 Goodwrench engine for $2500]
Keep looking for a deal on a donor vehicle while still driving your pickup

 

Already ordered my parts to do the swap, anyone looking for a pair of old stock Fenton dual intake and headers setup for a 235?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app