One more piece to the puzzle. We got a little crazy and cut up the transmission tunnel cover. Got to try something new with Chris and put the dimple dies to use. Cover turned out great, and of course we had to add our signature rivets. Couple more side braces to add and the xmember is officially done.
@Joe Rosales Nice Period Correct Custom Fab...Like a Vintage Drawing in a Google Patent search for Vintage Hotrod Upgrades...I was thinking a Lexan/Plexi window in the floor with riveted aluminum sealed retainer allowing a small glimpse into the finer details...truly many times this art is unfortunately hidden to the masses...
Just found this thread, awesome work! Very impressive. If I may suggest something, you might want to consider running a torque rod to take the stress off those old bones. Or braces on the bones. The 35-36 bones are the good ones, but still, a nice 327 mill is going to put a lot of stress on them.
I agree with Blues4U. Those bones were meant to hold a rear end square and the torque tube handle the task of keeping the rear axle from twisting. I bought a partially completed Brookville Roadster on a rolling chassis that had some Speedway wishbones that now are sold with the admonition that they are not for rear axle. After I finished the car enough to drive it and took it out and kicked on it they bent like spaghetti. Since the car was all but finished and was painted etc., I got another set just like them and welded in a web of 1/8" steel between the 2 tubes and they have held up fine. Since you have the bones, a single torque arm with the pivot aligned with the pivots on the bones should suffice.
Finally got the shocks to fit the dog bones. Some heat from the torch and some bending did the trick.
Just rereading some of this fantastic build, and have to ask about this photo. If that is a stock wheelbase '32 chassis, and the body is sitting with the rear wheels in the wheel wells, how does the stock 30-31 hood fit? I've always thought the cowl to grille shell was longer? Bob
Hello Bob Yes, this is a stock 32 wheelbase. I actually took 6 inches out the rear because it was actually too long. As far as the hood goes I had to take 2 inches from the grille to sit proper. I removed the 32 grille and went with a 34 truck grille instead which fits almost perfect.
Although the headlight risers are rather common, they're common for a reason...THEY WORK!!!! I like the look, especially on the Warbaby!
Everything you have done so far is real old time stuff, rivets, extended frame flanges, lots of original forged pieces. The cast aluminum headlight brackets are too streamlined, hidden hardware, too eye catching and look out of place IMO. Hand fabed brackets using airplane wing strut oval material would be more in place with exposed carriage bolt heads. Bob
The Jalopy Journal
