Hot Rods steel wheel fix

On the left is a fairly new Ford 15x7 wheel I bought from summit a couple years back. On the right is an original Ford 1956 15x5 wheel. As you can see the the lug holes on the 15x5 wheel from years of impact gun abuse have made the holes larger. Is there any kind of insert or larger nut available to fix this?

 

"Two lefts don't make a right", I think you need to edit your text. Interesting question though.

 

Yes, your lug nut holes look to different sizes.

I use these on my 15 in Ford wheels. Rims are 1950 Ford pick up. Studs are 1/2-20 UNF
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-1929-...947121?hash=item1c8bf18b31:g:IEwAAOSwBLlVbiKC

 

Looks like the one on the left is for 7/16" studs, one on the right looks to be for 1/2".

 

As long as the nut taper is larger than the hole by 1/16" or so it should be fine. They do make 7/8" hex lug nuts also, that's another choice. I'm assuming you have 1/2x20 studs...

 

Good catch! Fixed it.

 

Yes their 1/2" studs. They're getting close bottoming out against the brake hub.

I like that idea. Going to look into that.

 

If the lug holes are original and only need larger nuts to be safe that should be OK (assuming the nuts clamp the wheel before bottoming against the drum. If the holes are worn that much it's a different matter. These wheels are not hubcentric and rely on the studs for location. Also, if the flanged portion of the lug hole is severely worn they could be weakened to the point of failure.

 

In the original application they are hub centric, as are all '50s Ford wheels. The aftermarket wheel on the left has an oversize center hole. That OEM wheel is getting close to point where I wouldn't personally use it but it's not there yet.

 

^^^^ I agree with @TCTND . The distorted lug holes are no longer as designed and shaped. Moreover, as pointed out, the wheel is not, and was not, mounted hub centric which means the distortion was not necessarily limited by the wheels concentricity with the hub.

edit: I was typing the above before @Crazy Steve posted. I respect his knowledges and enjoy his posts, and he may be correct about the hub centric fit if ‘50s Ford wheels. I had a lot of exposure to Fords of that era and obviously think/thought otherwise. But, I may be ‘misremembering’. Even so, I think that wheel isn’t worth ‘saving’ for the paltry few dollars it requires to replace it with an unquestionable good or new wheel.

We try to rationalize that a simple band aid will restore the strength and integrity of the wheel, but it is in no way certain. IMO, the wheel on the right is a wall hanger or hose reel.

Ray

 

Go to a parts store with a Dorman cabinet of studs/nuts.You might get lucky,and find a nut with the same thread,but takes a larger socket.

 

You can buy 1". Mandentory on all vehicles over 200 at Bonneville as is the minimum 1/2-20 stud. All the standard suppliers have them. Remember to carry a 1" socket.
The one on the right will purchase on the axle or spindle the one on the left will not. There are rings available to center it. Most don't give a shit. But I do.

 

I just thought of something else that could work. Chuck a nut in the lathe and machine the taper slightly longer. Not much, maybe a 1/16".

 

Good idea but the opposite is needed!
Simply "face" the end of the Lug-nut so it doesn't bottom out.
The deeper in it goes, the further out it is on the taper.

Lug nuts are cheaper to modify than the wheels

 

Isn’t that a common rim (5x15) seems like I have a couple that came on an old trailer

 

Note how much deeper and more clearly formed the details are on the original Ford wheel.
Kind of confirms my cynical view that everything old is good, everything new is crap.

 

I agree with your observation of the stamping quality/detail. However, I believe it has more to do with OEM standards vs aftermarket ......not so much old vs new.

Ray