I am looking for some advice on what motor mounts I should get when installing this motor. I have the original front style biscuit type but when doing a mock up it looks like they would be a lot harder than installing side style engine mounts. What have you all used and how far back did you all place the motor? Body is off right now due to getting body work done. Any advice and tips would be appreciated, the more detail the better please. Here’s a pic with general mock up to see how it looks Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The back of the heads and valve covers are in such close proximity to the firewall, you need to know exactly where the firewall is when positioning the engine.
This is what I did for engine mounts on my 1950 3100 truck. My motor is an early 350, but has the same dimensions as yours. The positioning on mine leaves enough room to get an HEI distributor in front of the firewall and get the cap off without any drama.
Looks in the pictures like the engine is position too far rearward. If I remember correctly, if you get the right parts, you can use the original front center type mount as used on the six cylinder engine. But you need to use a bell housing from a late 50s early 60s truck that mounting pads on the sides... outboard. Still a 3 point system, just one point in front and two at the bellhousing. The early 60s Chevy trucks used a hydraulic slave cylinder pushing on the clutch fork.
If you're using early style front mounts, You'll need a truck or tri-5 bellhousing [or tri-5 powerglide if choosing an auto trans] If you're using an early truck style transmission that hangs off the bellhousing then you want to use the front mounts. If not........... Do yourself a favor and use side mounts and a rear crossmember [then you can have better transmission choices] You cannot use front mounts and ONLY a trans crossmember mount, it will be a too narrow base and cannot control torque reaction If you use side mounts, it also frees up the front bolts for eg: a power steering pump etc On tri-5's the power steering pump was driven of the generator
Yes has side mounts and had bolts drilled and taped for starter also. Also have th350 for it or power glide Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Subscribed, what do you plan on doing with the steering gear box? It looks like a manifold will not fit. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used a Hurst front saddle mount and rear trans mount and nothing in the middle years ago and never had a problem. I know the they are wider than the original style front ones. Ran a 4-speed and drag raced some. Exhaust was always the problem around the steering. Good luck and have fun with it.
Offsett motor to the left and add spacers to the steering box. That’s what I have read on other sites, but if I can find a part number for a smaller steering box I would rather do that. Truck is being built for my 16 yr old so my wife wants to make sure it is safe Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That is WAY cool and exactly what I am doing at this time. My 15-year-old will have a 51 with a 283 as well...
The biggest issue of a sbc in a 47-55 Advance Design truck is that there is not enough real estate with the stock steering gear and the exhaust manifolds. Engine offsets and spacers are a Band-Aid and any room you gain on the left, you lose on the right. If you look at the picture posted by Stueeee, this appears to be the exact same setup used by my son on his 50 3100. A CCP power steering kit. Less than 100 bucks and comes with templates to swap the shocks mounts side to side and put them behind the axle. Mounts for a Saginaw box (my son used a manual box) and a new steering arm. You supply a 67-87 Chevy/ GMC 2 wheel drive box and a Chevelle pitman arm. You also need to either shorten the original steering column or replace it. My son used a 67-72 pickup column unmodified. Lastly, several u joints and some shafting to connect the two will be required. This is the end result.
The 283's had provision for side mounts where the 265's didn't. The front mounts you have were used with brackets that came off the back of the front crossmember on trucks and the rear mounts were on or off the bellhousing depending if it was a truck or car. If you're wanting to stay with the front mounts you have, I recommend using the mounts off the bellhousing as stated before but the tail of the tranny may need support too. I do not believe there are any mounts made for a TH350 as they were made for the original tranny's that had provisions for the brackets that come off off the frame. Plus I am not sure you want all that just hanging out there past the bellhousing area. You could also use a Hurst style mount for the front to maybe ease installation as you already have the block mounting holes. Side engine mounts and a mount at the transmission would probably be easier and give you more options as mentioned before. This "balances" the weight of the engine and transmission. I wouldn't have mounts only at the front of the engine and at the tranny tailshaft. This would put too much stress where the tranny bolts onto the engine.
Lots of good info on this very topic here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-in-an-ad-pickup-questions.1193180/#post-13572619
That is slick! I like it and will definitely keep it in mind for an upcoming project. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I found a set in San Antonio and heading that way tomorrow to get em. Waiting for motor mount and transmission mount to come in from fed ex. Ordered it from performance online.com. Hopefully everything works and will be posting more pics Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I order that kit from performance online today, hopefully with that and 265 exhaust manifolds the install will be pretty clean cut. I live in a rural area so it’s not like my son will be cruising faster that 60-65 and already have my front end rebuild waiting to be installed. Making him do all the wrenching since it is going to be his truck- told him if he wanted me to do it all it would be my truck. Figure he had to learn sometime. He already rebuilt the carb and built new brake and fuel line. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Use early 265 Chevy manifolds They exit L/F and R/R In a tri-5 frame here I would offset the engine towards the passenger side [GM did this with the C3 Corvettes] For a steering upgrade.............consider a Toyota Hilux 4x4 power steering box and move it outward slightly. This can be achieved with universal joints in the column Here's a Hilux power steering box [in a Ford] moving this L or R doesn't affect bump steer [just the height of the ball joint on the pitman arm]
I think I have a nice pair of those 265 exhaust manifolds with head pipe stubs that you can have for free if you want to go that way. Just pay the shipping. Let me know and I’ll dig ‘em out. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What’s the zip code so I can get a price for shipping if u don’t mind Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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