Austin snagged me these little brass knick knacks from a train he dismantled. I can’t wait to use them on the A! All sorts of ideas for these
I’m not sure @dumprat in thinking they’d be cool to hide a light or switch under, or if they are a little bigger they could be a cool little wire bulkhead/hood where it passes threw the firewall. I’m excited to see what I can come up with for them.
Does it fit? close enough! before 5 gallons of water and a generous amount of citric acid. Didn’t wire brush it, hose it off, or anything before I put it in there. I’ll finish it off upside down in a deep tray. figure I’m at a little stand still so I’ve been pulling stuff to soak in acid and clean in the mean time
I'm interested in the outcome with this. I am bogged down again over parts cleaning and rust removal.
Cardboard template. 1/4 plate part drilled and painted with the silver hammer tone like the rest. Excited to have this one close to being checked off the list
I really like getting little pieces like this built. It takes the "mockup" aspect out of at least a part of the build and gives some satisfaction.
Then because I had just cut my Jean into shorts haha I used the cut offs with some dawn dish soap to scrub it down. Then i put some soap in the case and just sprayed the shit out of it with a hose for a while. then I used various towels to try and soak up any water and left it in the driveway for 5 hours at 93 degrees. you can see that it gets a charcoal ish tint to the metal but If you want it gone it comes off fast with a wire brush or similar. after a few hours it has a tiny bit of a sand colored spots that I guess are flash rust but it doesn’t bother me at this point. Easy prep if I need it gone. i can read ALL the numbers on everything, the gear inside the case now rolls like it’s all brand new. Just brought it back in and sat it in a wider shallower tub with some other bits and pieces with the bell side down for round two. I just dumped the now yellow/ green liquid out of the blue bucket into it. most of the rust/ mud sludge stayed in the bucket I’ll post pics of that later
Awesome work by Mr. citric acid.... That's pretty slick..... Where do you get the acid from? That flat on the bellhousing right above the inspection cover is where the VIN should be stamped. Mine matched the frame when I rebuilt my engine/trans a couple years ago. Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Amazon of course lol you can also find it at farm stores and health food stores. It’s edible. Here are a few photos of it in the new tin with some random bits of other rusty stuff. You can re use the solution until it’s basically sludge. As long as you can see teeny bubbles it’s working. Was trying to get a good look at the green/yellow tint it has now. Also put the block off plate on the intake for a look. Needs the paint touched up a little as it felt over night but over all I’m happy with it. Need some hardware and eventually gasket material and it’s done
I'm sold, I'll be trying this soon. I still have a few gallons of Evapo Rust to use up but this is so much cheaper and seems to do just as good of a job.
Wow, I'm sold too. I've used Evaporust a lot too but 5 gallons runs around $100. I might be inclined to mist with WD40 to keep the flash rust down if I'm not painting right away. Anybody dipped a block with this stuff yet? Edit: Found the cheapest by weight bag on Amazon: https://amzn.to/2BDcytA And if you want a bucket full: https://amzn.to/2UmXJC4
Wow! That's amazing! Sadly, I have a couple of engines that I had machined and heads assembled 20+ years ago before my machinist friend retired. Naturally, I believed I'd be getting right to them to paint them, so I didn't oil them down. We know how this turned out and now I have a couple nicely machined engined with light surface rust. Clearly, this would work on them so far as the flash rust is concerned, wonder if the machining and the hone would be preserved?
Yeah I think they would @drdave between this and the steering boxes you can see the machines surfaces perfectly clear. Most smooth machined or non porous things come out shiny. Worse case you may have to clean the bores a teeny amount if they get the darker tint to them? But seems like dang near a bottle cleaning brush would do it. this if it’s quick thin flash rust this will take it off in less than 12 hours. @flatout51 did some brake calipers over night that went from looking like door stops to brand new a while back
One thing I would mention is that acid on cast iron can do some weird things. I would be very cautious it doesn't make it soft. I soaked a set of flathead adjustable lifters in vinegar one time to clean rust off the threads. Overnight the cast iron turned the consistency of chalk. You could scratch them apart with your fingernail. Just a thought
You would have to totally disassemble the engines, which may be best anyway. A product like Rust Doctor or Rust Mort that changes the rust into a primer or sealed coating may be better on the flash rust. Did the citric acid remove dirt & grease too? What is the ratio acid to water?
Only removes rust. No dirt, oil, paint, plating etc. about a half cup of flakes to a gallon of water. I never let it sit for more than a few days. did some steering boxes, steering columns and shafts, lots of a small stuff, hardware, license plates. And they are all still rock hard
It snowed here yesterday, it didn't stick. Now it's warming up. I'll try the pressure washer blaster with the new pump soon but if it doesn't work I'll build a trough that my frame will fit in and give it a soak. I have some heavy plastic and some 8x8 beams.