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Technical Trying to remove cam in Ford 260...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fisher400, Jun 4, 2020.

  1. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Replacing my cam in my stock 2 barrel Ford 260 (Nov 62 early block) and it won’t come out. What am I missing? The youtubers make it look like the cam leaps out of the block!

    The heads are getting worked on so I am replacing the tired cam and lifters with either a stock or Summit SUM-K3601 very mild cam.

    I have the block rotated upside down on the stand so the lifters are off the lobes (too varnished to be pulled out, planning to push them through one the cam is out). Thrust plate is off, timing gear is on as a handle and I can’t get this to budge... any thoughts or tips are appreciated. Also, if you put a new cam in a 260, I would appreciate any tips or suggestions. Ohh and yes this is my first cam swap.

    Thanks in advance!



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  2. Ted Chandler
    Joined: May 25, 2020
    Posts: 24

    Ted Chandler
    Member

    Did the camshaft move out at all? If it did, I am guessing that 1 or more of the hung up lifters are intruding and causing interference.
     
    vtx1800 likes this.
  3. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Thanks, no it didn’t move a bit. I was able to pull each lifter in and out (some more than others obviously)which tells me none are making full contact on the cam when upside down. Just trying to be cautious here and not mess up something! Do the lifters absolutely need to be out to yank a cam?


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  4. Try turning it while you pull out... there's probably some varnish somewhere. And if the motor is upside down with the pan off, you can reach in with a long punch and push the lifters out at least part way. Remember, you're not saving the lifters, you'll need new ones with a new cam.

    You did pull the distributor, right?
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.

  5. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Ok, posts are more enjoyable with pics:[​IMG]


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  6. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Ohh I am sure there is varnish on this thing. The cam is yellow with it lol. Will try that


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  7. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,672

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your lifters may be up off the cam lobe, but they need to clear the cam lobe nose as well as the cam bearing surface on the cam. Normal practice would be to remove them before the cam.
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  8. Have you measured the bore? It looks like a 221 to me....

    The 260 is 3.8", the 221 is 3.5".
     
  9. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Turns fine but still doesn’t want to pull out. I cringe to ask if the back cam plug can be tapped in will that bump the cam free. Don’t want to mess up any bearings of course.... just a suggestion. Or just keep roaring and pulling on the timing gear?


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    oldiron 440 likes this.
  10. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 715

    studebaker46
    Member

    here is a trick an old ford mech taught me back in 70s on the very same engine. get a can or 2 of zeps pentatrating oil and a good magnet spray the lifters good and use the magnet to bounce the lifters up and down and then spray the cam bearings really good if you can turn it by hand you should be able to remove it. Tom
     
    Fisher400 likes this.
  11. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Yea, good question. I verified the block numbers it is a really early 62 260 with only 4 plugs on the block. It’s the original engine in my 63 Sprint.


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  12. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    No issues with the penetrating oil and the rest of the pistons etc? Not tearing the rest down so just don’t want other chemicals that don’t mix well with engine oil. It’s a good idea and will try it if the oil isn’t an issue!


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  13. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,250

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Penetrating oil shouldn't be an issue. Roll the motor back upright on the stand after you get the cam and lifters out and it will all drain out anyway. Once you get the new cam and lifters in you'll do a cam break in, and shortly thereafter do an oil change so any residual penetrating oil will be flushed out.
     
  14. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Ok, that makes sense and I was planning to change after the break in so that’s good.


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  15. coilover
    Joined: Apr 19, 2007
    Posts: 696

    coilover
    Member
    from Texas

    What takes off varnish? Lacquer thinner! Dribble thinner around each lifter and slowly work up and down. It might take fifty or more cycles but once varnish is dissolved the lifter will lift right out.
     
    Fisher400 likes this.
  16. 4wd1936
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,288

    4wd1936
    Member
    from NY

    Bolt the gear back on with a couple of pry bars behind the gear and gently work them back and forth. Also gentle persuasion with a slide hammer will often work.
     
  17. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    RmK57
    Member

    Rotate the engine enough so you can grab on to a lifter with visegrips and wiggle them loose. Unless your saving them of coarse.
     
    Fisher400 likes this.
  18. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,540

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    I know , I know some will throw apples at me but I would throw new cam bearings in as well. No better time. Also check your rocker arms and pushrods for wear.
     
  19. Was this a running driving motor? Why are you taking it apart? Did it burn oil or what?

    I hesitate to say this, but if the lifters won't come out because of varnish build up, I'd be pulling everything out to clean and or replace. It might need rings, rod, main and cam bearings too.
    Tell us the rest of the story. o_O
     
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  20. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I never had a sbf. Does it have a retainer plate? lol. Lippy
     
  21. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    If that photo is current the cam plate is still on!
     
  22. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,299

    oldiron 440
    Member

    They have only been in the block for 58 years, what were you expecting.?
     
    Fisher400 likes this.
  23. Jokester
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 687

    Jokester
    Member

    Did you remove the fuel pump? I'm not a Ford guy, but some engines run the fuel pump arm right on the cam.

    .bjb
     
    irishsteve, Deuces, BJR and 1 other person like this.
  24. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    No juicy back story on the engine. Has 55k on it org miles. Was fixed up with a new timing chain and seals back in the 80’s. Original carb intake fuel pump etc. my plan is to keep it original down to sprint stickers on the valve covers. Pulled it to repaint the engine compartment, new clutch, T5 trans, repaint the block etc you know “ while I am in there stuff”. The engine ran fine just needed a valve job and a good cleaning. The heads are at a engine shop right now having that done.



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  25. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    It’s off, the gear is on to give a handle to pull and rotate


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  26. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Will certainly check them out, can you put new bearings in without taking out the crank/ pistons?


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  27. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Yup, that comes off with the timing cover


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  28. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,228

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from BHC AZ

    Lifters need to come out. Just because it's off the heel of IT'S lobe doesn't mean it's clear the lobe BEHIND it.
     
    partssaloon, bchctybob and Fisher400 like this.
  29. Remove the lifters, your going to replace them anyway. HRP
     
  30. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    I have a very strong magnetic, thinner, acetone and zep. I see if I can bounce them or vice grip them and yank the lifters...thanks for the advice!


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