Technical ***June 2020 Banger Meet Thread - So Four So Good***

Make a test drive .


Sent from my S41 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Checking in.

John, do you have any pictures of it? Not sure I understand correctly...

 

Interesting.Imagine the pucks must be some kind of poly compound like dacron.How much load do they handle? how long do they last?

 

Bones showing..sport coupe like an ugly girlfriend who's good in bed,its a whole lot of fun till your friends catch you doing it..

 

Do you just solder the copper into the tee's too?that would shorten up the work,make fitting easier..Going to use an A pump,want to find a quality small relief valve..

 

Checking in. Installing a high compresion head.

 

what head is that ? .................. steve

 

The pucks are steel.

https://vibrationfree.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/STERLING-DAMPER.SecretsOfSpeed.pdf

 

see if this makes more sense.

 

Thank-you of the informative and prompt reply John

I will proceed based on your information and try and post some picture of the conversion.

Bob

 

Yes, they are steel. Depicted real well in the article and keeps me from pulling one apart.
Thank you @hotrodfil
As for longevity...longer than I'll be around
Vibrationfree has made these for many other applications and is a proven technology. It just happens that they are Model A banger nuts.
It has changed the complexion of every car that there has been one installed on. They are costly, but not as much as a broken crank.
I'll shut up now

 

That SOS article was updated in 2018 ( included on the link) to say that the pucks have been replaced with loose ball bearings.

Where Charlie Yapp says
Rattlers are effective for the entire rpm range and they
extend crankshaft and bearing life., is that the range of the original motor, or as far as you want to rev the engine, i.e does it mean you can safely rev a Model A to 6ooo rpm?

 

No.

 

Try either of these available from McMaster-Carr. They are air relief valves but can handle temperatures up to 300 degrees. I have used the large one in a pressurized A since 2012 with no issues and have recently built a B where I used the small valve. The small valve only had one port so I disassembled it and drilled two additional relief ports to achieve more flow based on my experience with how the bigger valve has performed.

· McMaster-Carr PN 4772K2 1/8”-NPT X 1.75” height for 25 PSI at $9.71 each

· McMaster-Carr PN 4772K4 1/4"-NPT X 2.50” height for 25 PSI at $13.27 each

 

It's a 5.5:1 from Snyder's Model A Parts.

 

Checking in. Head is back on, rocker assy finished and in transit, then custom pushrods to be spec'd and built, then go!

 

Thanks,nice work..was thinking about running the relief external which would allow relief adjustments without opening the engine up,by using bulkhead fittings on the valve cover...Ive got Yapps article on it just have to actually read it ..but everything might change coming up here,got a date with what looks like a honey hole saturday..41 lincoln OD trans,21 stud and a 59AB lead the list he says he has a huge stash and wants to sell,Ill roll with cash,it might determine the next build..Ive been down this road before,its all shit till you lay eyes on it..

 

Interesting.. I bet it sounds like a hand full of change was tossed in the bellhousing...not that clatter bothers me if its beneficial.

 

As far as I know all the repop original caps whether gas or radiator are vented between the cap and the threads in the cap. I actually soldered the small vent slits closed and used RTV between a rubber gasket and teflon on the threads and it still leaked. finally gave up and had the inlet on the rad replaced and used the modern style twist lock with a 32 cap. I wasn't trying to pressurize the system, just wanted it to siphon back through the overflow from an overflow tank.

 

The latest... No ball bearings. Pucks in a kidney shaped pocket. The radius allows the puck to move to absorb the torsional energy when the centrifugal force has it against the it.
The remaining shape controls the puck as the engine stops.
This reduces/eliminates the 'rattling' that could occur as the engine comes to rest on shutdown.


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I'm picking up my Stirling flywheel Friday week. I'll ask Steve whats inside the latest ones. He has a plan to make a V8 out of two banger blocks. Because he's bored!!!!

 

I just order a combination external filter mount with adjustable relieve valve from Dan McEachern email [email protected] relief pressure rages from 5 psi and up as I understand. waiting on delivery of the unit.

 

Picture of the filter relief unit

 

^^^looks like ORFS fittings..nice work right there^^^^

 

Larry - that is an interesting (and old) concept, I think it's pretty cool you got those over on this side of the ol' pond

 

It's odd that I can no longer find the information from ww2 experiments pertaining to that concept....

 

Pretty busy looking, more pipes than an oil refinery. Nice job though and Swagelok fittings, high buck stuff.

 

Dennis,
I have had good luck luck with a large 3/16" thick O ring from the hardware store. Fitted inside the cap with just a light shmear of silicone grease to keep things friendly. Has lasted years for me. HTH
Peace, Phred

 

I like the idea of external plumbing,you can fix it or adjust it without tearing the engine apart..those air compressor pop off valves constantly over relief is scary,those things are dicey when they protect a compressor.Dont mind paying to protect an engine..

 

Saturday's road trip,21 stud,a 59AB and this..got to pull the side cover and look,I hate it when a seller says no,buy it as is.It would make the whole trip a waste,I walk when a cat isn't reasonable no matter how bad I want it.