The only semi truck lugs that were left hand were for the old style nut located wheels. They used a inner nut on duals that was threaded on the outside as well, and a normal looking nut on the outside wheel, left threaded on the left side of the truck. The inner nut secured the inner wheel, then you put on the outer wheel, and the normal looking nut secured the outer wheel. I've had the studs break off and actually used the inner and outer nuts in that spot so you couldn't tell the stud was broken! The inner nut was a square head while the outer nut was a normal hex head. Modern wheels on semi's are are hub piloted, so you only use one nut, the wheel faces sit on one another where the old two piece nut wheels rode on the cones on the nuts.
Check "Chevys of the 40's" in So Cal they should have what you need. Chevs of the 40's | 1937-1954 Chevrolet Classic ... www.chevsofthe40s.com Chevs of the 40's | 1937-1954 Chevrolet Classic Restoration and Street Rod Parts Parts for 1937 to 1954 Chevy Cars or Trucks (Click on your car/truck below for vehicle information) 1937 Car + Model INFO. All 1937 Chevy Car Parts were either a Master or Deluxe Master model in a Sedan, Coupe, Coach or Cabriolet body style. The Cabriolet had a ...
good idea, wait until they all snap off while going down the road like they did on my old 56 Chevy. then you can fix all sorts of broken things all at once. LOL
I had a 35 chevy 1/2 ton with Lh threads, but my 35 chevy sedan, and 36 1/2 ton have Rh threads, all were built in Canada at the same plant.
I think a lot of Canadian built vehicles were put together with whatever hardware they had laying around at the time, or at some point in the past 80-90 years a disgruntled mechanic thought it would be fun to switch out the studs...
Studebaker used the left hand studs as well. I think they did so at least through 1959. I had a '59 Lark that had them. I think a lot of folks changed them to right hand studs so everything is the same.
Mopars had left hand nuts on the left, drivers side and right on the right, passenger side. Go out in my front yard and check 15 or 20 Dodge Brothers and Mopar cars. Exception is all 3 of the '36 Dodge 1/2 ton LC pickups I own/owned, they were all right hand bolts. Dave
one thing to keep in mind; impact guns have more torque in the "left hand" rotation. if tightening them up with a gun the "feel" of tightness will be different. use a torque wrench.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200124424_200124424 note the torque ratings. maybe not all the guns but just something to keep in mind.
I think they’re all like that. I’ve had a few brands and they all list higher torque ratings in “reverse”. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well...after reading through this, pretty sure I at minimum got a reminder to look for the “L” on the end of any left side studs I can’t get the nut loose on. It has been several years since I took wheels off anything with LH threads, so appreciated. And, I also had never heard of a Chevrolet with LH threads, but had heard (and seen some) of the others. Good info! Thanks!
Yes the dorman 611-015 is the right one for this application. Napa has them. Picked up 1 to check out and it fits. So tomorrow I am going to get the other 9 they have. 2 short, but will ask if he can get more in. $1.76 each Canadian.....Thanks again. Lordco here is special order.
That LH/RH self tightening theory is really true. All center "knock off" wheels have LH & RH threads for that very reason...self tightening. Bought a set of used 40 spoke knock-off wheels for the wife's Panel. Of course, I initially put them on the wrong sides...less than a mile one wheel loosened up and screwed up the threads on the adapter. Switched sides and never had another problem.
My all original 56 Oldsmobile 88 had left hand threads on one side. They were factory. I ended up changing all over to right hand thread.
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