Technical A change in auto interior insulation from what it use to be

I have always insulated the heck out of my old cars,covering almost the entire interior of the car. I,ve always like the(quiet)as if it was your family car. In the past I used 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick,fabric filled, foiled covered with a adhesive backing. I was always pleased with the outcome ,how quiet the car became afterward.
Now this is no longer used or desired,a insulation 1/8 " with a tar like adhesive. I realize there is a reason for this,cuts down vibration which creates noise,kind of a physics thing. Well my own view it,s not as quiet as the old stuff. the best stuff I ever used was for a old 40 Ford .Insulation was 4X8 ft aircraft insulation 1/2 " thick.

 

jute.

 

^^^
"Hey Juke, don't make it bad
Take a sad song and make it better
Remember to let it into your car
Then you can start to make it better

Who wants it cool
By making his world a little cooler
Na na na naa-naa

Beatles

 

Add maybe the song lyrics “I’ve got too much time on my hands “

 

"Juke Box Hero"

 

Nothing has been improved since 1940! Nothing! Well, 'cept fer ladies undergarments, V8 engines, music (they only had like 10 songs back then), sports (got better but then really god awful) stock market, infomercials, tires, porn (c'mon, you know it's true), freeways, paychecks, bourbon, viruses (too soon?), life expectancy, communication and oh yeah, insulation!

 

this stuff?



you can still get it...

https://www.calcarcover.com/product/hot-rod-heat-shield-sound-insulation/706

 

That stuff gets wet and stays wet and rusts your freshly installed floorpans. Stinks when wet and makes your car smell like a wet dog. Quit using it years ago unless a customer insists on it .

 

I've pulled up way too much wet jute insulation and found rusty metal to ever install any of that on a car of mine. I did install some of that foil-backed-tar peel and stick stuff. There's no way it will let water seep behind it and rust the metal. And it did cut down on the noise a bit.

 

Not the greatest product, but I’ve used this contractor grade Peel n Seal on a number of recent projects. $65 a roll from Lowe’s? or Modern Builders Supply.
Did entire inside of my Olds 98 and only used 1/2. Even did roof. Reinstalled factory carpet and insulation and this car is whisper quiet. Being in Florida wanted all the thermo insulation I could get, as I plan to eventually install A/C
Purchasing a good quality hard rubber roller is a must.
Also, roof had thoroughly scraped and wire brushed prior to adhesion



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've used Second Skin in the last two cars I've done and been happy with the results. It is the rubbery sheets with foil on top, cuts down on heat and noise. I put a partial sheet in the doors and quarters of my Model A and it takes the tinny sound out of them.

 

I bought this stuff from a local audio shop. Weighed about a ton which I why I had to add the blower to the flathead. For a roadster, with a 471 and a QC in the back, it is still pretty damn quiet. I did the firewall, doors, trunk, floors, quarters. It does sound cool when you shut the doors. Not traditional, but cool. This stuff is the same thickness as my MC cover so it is recessed basically in the sound deadener.

 

Nice

 

I'm wondering what they used on firewalls inside back then. My Lincoln has a molded cardboard like deal, about 1/2" thick, that is black on the outside and looks like layered brown cardboard inside, but it's brittle and breaks at nothing. I had to remove a section to mount my gas pedal, it was impossible to cut clean, it just crumbles. Thought about doing a double layer of peel and seal in it's place, but most of it looks decent so I had to tear it off.

 

It was some type of fiber board used on the insides of firewalls. Doesn't hold up past about 30 years...

If you plan to let water get into your car, then you want to avoid putting anything on the floor that will trap it, whether it be jute, rubber, carpet, or whatever. If you keep the car dry, then it's not a big deal.

 

Another issue with the 1/8" thick insulation with the tar like self sticking backing ,wait till you make a mistake or want to remove it See the work and the mess you have to deal with dealing with this black backing . to get it back off... Ask me how I know Gene

 

I like both the foil/jute and the dynamat style. The foil/jute is good at stopping heat and the other for floor seal and vibration. The spray-in or glue in styles are a big hassle if the need to be removed.

 

I have no idea what this mat is (mass?), used by my upholsterer now deceased , perhaps someone can identify by another name. It is a black, synthetic-seeming felt about 1/2" thick. Seems more moisture/mold proof and sophisticated than the foily jute stuff which is essentially old rags.

 

Jim ,I like your old picture that you are using again with your posts ,better than your more recent ones You working under the hood on a 4 barrel , looks cool Oh ya you looked a bit younger back then sorry.. Your buddy from Mn

 

Nobody PLANS on letting water into the car, but it always finds a way. No such thing as an old car with absolutely tight weatherstripping. I paint everything inside before I'd put any kind of insulation on it. And then no insulation that will act like a sponge.

 

I used Lizard Skin sound and heat barrier. (Two different products sprayed with a unique gun)
We sprayed a coat of each on the bottom of the car and also the inside of the car. The product can be sprayed with as little or as much texture as desired. I also installed a layer of Hush Mat on the inside of the car including inside the doors and 1/4 panels.
My goal is to make the car sound solid and to stop any heat from the drivetrain from entering the car. I know I went overboard but I kind of do that sometimes.

 

OK, how do you know Gene?

 

My '37 Chevy coupe doors sound like slamming wall lockers.

 

That can be cool in a retro, teenage angst, coming of age kind of way. Mine sounds like a locker door lined in lead being closed on a locker full of freshmen.

 

I like jute, the old fashioned stuff with no backing, always used it, spray some glue down stick 1/2 inch jute on it, sound dead. Getting harder to find, still got a sizable roll in my shop. I use outside, rubber backed indoor outdoor carpet over top, has worked for me.

 

That would have been fine if you were not the freshman in question.

 

^^^Even as a freshman, I'd have never fit.

 

Anyone got a source for the stuff OEMs stick to the underside of cars? I’ve had a ‘98 Ford Explorer and a ‘05 Ford Ranger with stuff stuck to the underside I sworn would have fallen off by now. Always on the floor pans near high heat/noise stuff.

 

ive installed all types over the years ive been building em on the clock for 25+ ive done all forms jute , foamy stuff, the ol bubble wrap foil backed , tar backed foundation stuff, dyna mat both heat and sound versions , bed liner ,, (works ok but ya gotta get it on really thick and if ya gotta get in there your screwed) but the last few years i have been using a wonderful product that comes from restomod air
its called membrane , its a combo material that easy to use its the sticky back black stuff (like a dynamat) covered in a foam sound deadener and topped with a aluminum foil in one pass its not super thick between 3/16 and to a 1/4 conforms nicley and sticks exceedingly well (ever pull off a door panel and it all was in the bottom of the door ,or wadded up in the regulator my fav) but would really strongly recommend (im not affilated with anybody) the product called membrane from restomod air ..
fabricator john
miss you dad