Great thinking BUT it reminded me of the movie "Silence of the Lambs" where the bad dude cuts the skin off ladies and drapes it on himself.
At least I wasnt eating fava beans with a nice Chianti while skinning it out. Maybe I'll name the car Clarice!
You are getting there, i like the way you slid the sedan in under the delivery roof retaining the door jams and then trimming to fit. I just hate those half circle shards the nibbles makes They get ever where, stick in the soles of your shoes and everything else. But they work great. Frank
Looking great!!! Gonna make recovery go easier having something solid to look at and study while you are healing.
Just got home from the cardiologist a little while ago. Got cleared for the anesthesia for the surgery. Good to go!
Lots of studying still to be done. Placing the body on the Sedan only opened up a dozen other smaller projects to be done, but that was the biggy!
Had to get a work light so I could see inside. 5000 lumens did the trick. You can see where I am going to need to splice in some upper structure where the two bodies meet. I need to get the Drivers side door put on to start test fitting and trimming that needs to be done. I
Looking at things a bit differently now. I may need to get these door jambs situated so I can tie the inner structure together, before welding the roof. Here is a picture of the inner door jamb piece.
What's your plan to reconnect the quarter to the B post? Can you flip the part over and show us the other side?
Is that what you were looking for PNB? I'm headed over to my buddy's woodshop to make some 2' x 2' x 2' boxes out of 3/4" plywood to set the car on. I'll use them as platforms for my jackstands, and use thinner material as needed under the jackstands to get the car sitting level. The shop floor where the car is sitting has about a 2" or 3" drop over 20'. That part of the shop floor was the slab where I parked my RV I lived in while I was building my house, and I had the slope put on it so it would drain. Not a big deal, just have to shim up under the jackstands, and with a 2' x 2' footprint, they should be stable enough.
Got it. I couldn't see any Body Skin in the other photo. Your probably just fine. I may have left a few more inches just to be able to get at the back side of the seam. I would not use the fold seam on the replacement panel unless you have to. They generally are not as crisp as the Factory one and just a bit difficult to match the two together. Continue on, I'll go back under my rock.
The fold seam on the quarter isnt shaped the same as the door. The door is a little wider at the different "steps", but it will all work out. I should have left a little more meat on the outside sheet metal, but not knowing what I am doing, you live and you learn. There is still plenty of room to get in behind there and clean the backside for welding, and for getting a dolly in there as needed. Thanks for all your input!
Boxes are built, glued, screwed, nailed and hella strong. Tomorrow I will work on getting the platforms under the frame in the rear, get everything level, and start getting the floorboards finished up. I'll get all the rubber pads where they go and get the floors bolted down and see where we are with stuff lining up. For those that think these boxes are unsafe, rest assured, the weight of this car isnt anything for them. The wheel chocks are screwed down and the car isnt moving at all.
One more shot of the front supported by the boxes and the jack stands firmly in place. That's it for tonight.
Now your at the point where I ditch the spirits level and bring out my Digital Pro level. It reads in tenth's of a degree in a read out so you know your actually dead on instead of kinda close to a Line. The work you've done getting here and the work in front of you, you don't want to settle for pretty close on Door Gaps. I'm good with the Plywood boxes. Plywood is better than Plank boards. Working height looks grate. When it comes time to set the front clip on "prior" to welding the roof to the header you'll probably just call over your Really Tall Buddy's eh?
I bought one of these used, when I got tired of bending over, now i can sit on a stool and work the whole side of a car comfortable. I think I paid about $800. Best money spent on a tool. For it used it really saves on the back. I walked into a body shop when I was 11 Years old to get my mothers ironing board braised and never left except for Uncle Sam. Now 78 still messing with cars.
I have seen them on Evil Bay and Craig’s list time to time. Plywood boxes look good, but I concerned about PSI on the Jack stand legs, may be a small steel plate to distribute the load. Just thinking about safety. Love your build, like taking a Sows Ear and making a Silk purse out of it. Frank
I had major back surgery at age 37. So I can relate to back problems. I spent about $90 on the materials to make those boxes, but money well spent. I can roll up under the car on my rolling mechanics seat to do what I need to under there. That stooping down and getting up and down off the ground is for the young guys. I like the old adage, 'Work smarter, not harder!" and practice it where I can.
I have been watching the jack stands to make sure they arent digging into the plywood. So far so good. If i see it damaging the plywood, I will cut a piece of steel plate to put under it. That 3/4" plywood is pretty dense stuff.
I've got lots of parts that need to have rust removed from them, so I picked this tank up for $50. It's big enough to get most of a fender in. So the question is, electrolysis or citric acid bath? I have done the electrolysis on a 5 gallon bucket level, but never anything this size. I've never used citric acid but read good stuff about it. I figure while my eye is healing, I can get the mundane tasks like rust removal done.
On small stuff I use Apple Vinegar in a 5 gal pail it works good. Let me know what you use and how it works.
Rmonty, order a bag of powdered citric acid mix w water and fill that tank and go to town. I assure you it will remove any rust quick and easy. Sent from my SM-A205U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app