Ideas for replacement rear end for 30 tudor. Not ford 9 inch. Got to keep cost down retired. Installing 153 nova engine.Will use 16 by 7 in wheels regular tires. Keep finders. I thought i need same width rear as stock model a but does that make using different wheels become an offset problem. Do I need to use a little wider rear end so more choice of wheels that clear body. Is ford ranger, chevy S10, or ?? good.
If you score the right width (early upto about 1960) 9 inch at the right price the cost should be reasonable and not much work to do. Other options are early Mustang 8 inch but you start to lose ratio choices. The late Shoe Box and early Customline/Galaxy models (not 9 inch) may also offer you what you need. Also early Bronco rear end are pretty narrow...
Explorer rear 8.8 end 1996 to 2001 ... You can get them with a posi ... Disc or drum brakes.... I buy them for 125 to 150 dollars... I have one under my A sedan
I've run S10 rears on most all my builds.. They're narrow but with 1" adapters 4 3/4 bolt pattern to 5 1/2 bolt pattern puts the wheels perfect for fenders or not.. I think 7" rims are a little wide myself but your car...
I am using a stock '32 rear end in my AVATAR ( a '32). It is basically the same as a Model A rear end except the spring is behind the axle in a '32. I am running a 181 cubic inch Mercruiser Marine engine which is essentially a larger version of what you have. The rear of the engine is the same as a SBÇ and you can use a standard adapter to a '39 trans that will go right to the Model A rear end. I also included a photo of the mount I made for the engine. The bolt you see goes through the stock Chevy II engine mount. As others have asked, where in general are you located? Charlie Stephens
If you are willing to use an early Ford V8 trans and retain the torque tube driveline, then by all means keep the stock Model A rear end and upgrade it to hydraulic brakes. On the other hand, if you are using a transmission that requires an open driveline, you have a couple of options. One would be to convert your A axle to open drive pinion u joint flange. That would require replacing your present rear “bones” with beefier units attached to the crossmember or chassis to control the axle in the absence of the torque tube. Lastly, replacing your rear axle in it’s entirety. To determine the width you need, wheel mounting surface (WMS) side to side, acquire a pair of wheels that suit your plans and set them up spaced apart the distance required to put the tires into the rear fenders where you want them. Then, measure the wheel to wheel WMS distance. That is the width rear axle you need to achieve the mockup. Simplest of all, just measure the width of your A axle and use that dimension. For use behind the Chevy II engine, there are numerous suitable strength axles. For that application, you DO NOT need an Explorer axle. Though they are popular for good reason, it would be gross overkill in your Model A, as would a 9” Ford. Both are heavier than other better choices, adding unsprung weight and contributing to poor ride in a lightweight A. In addition the 9” has more internal friction/drag that does you no good with a banger engine. If you determine the width you want/need, post that dimension and more specific recommendations can be offered. Also, what wheel bolt pattern you prefer if you are going to change the front hubs as well. Ray
Over looked as brand X.....Toyota Tacoma rear ends.1998-2004-ish.They dont weight alot like a 9 inch.They wont rob as much HP as a larger rear.Those trucks came with 3:90 gears in the 5 speed trucks.The toyota engine puts out 125 HP so its in the range of 153.They have 5 lug wheels.Best of all their cheap in most yards cause lets face it who wants one? Oh, and they have a drop in gear carrier,and a decent look from the back.
@irishsteve is spot on here, these are a great rear end choice. They are around the correct width for a lot of what we do, and they are plenty tough (commonly refered to as the "Japanese 9 inch"). There are a lot of ratios available for them, and they come in open center and limited slip. 2 wheel drive versions are 5x4.5" stud pattern and 4 wheel drive is 6x5.5". Centers are banjo style (front loading), so the rear of the pumpkin is smooth, much like a 9 inch. Alot of guys won't use them because they are from an import, but they really deserve serious consideration. Check them out. You may be pleasantly surprised.
If he gets the information he is asking for, supplied in a respectful and friendly manner, he may stick around. Who knows................. maybe worth a try. Welcome john77.
Some good options there but it does come down to what transmission you run and if you already have the wheels and need a specific lug bolt pattern. Checking on another thread WMS to WMS on the rear axle of a Model A is 56 inches. That happens to be the same width as 5 lug Ford Maverick rear ends according to the same thread. Not the easiest to find but they are out there and the V8 cars had 8 inch rears.
I assume you are asking about sizes? I can't answer that for you, but a Toyota dealer or any shop working with rear ends should be able to help you out. Using one of these would most probably mean that you will need a tailshaft made up with the yokes to suit rear end / transmission combination.
You guys are going to think im making this up.........A 2003 Toyota Tacoma 2.4 engine uses the same ujoints as......a 55 Chevy ! I went to Rock Auto,and checked.Both use a Moog number 369 which no doubt is a precision number as well.Any good drive line shop can do this shaft.
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