Technical Any trick to separating this?

Been trying to get this thing off for the past couple hours and it’s put up a great fight. Any suggestions?


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Pop off the adjustment cover and see if you can see anything.

 

Lift up rear of trans, push in at out a few times

 

There's too much of a gap on top versus bottom.

You might need help if you're trying to do it by yourself.

* Attach a tiedown to the bottom and around the jack cup to help pull and keep it on the jack

"Reverse cowgirl" it so you can:
* Try to get it aligned by lifting the tail
* Try to rotate the output shaft
* And pull

Wouldn't hurt to:
* Apologize
* Talk real nice to it

You might need to:
* Lift and push in, first. Keep aligned then pull out
* Pry it apart at the bottom.

Dowel pins might be adding to the problem.

And/or:
* Get it leveled on wood blocks, hand truck, creeper, or something
* Work on prying apart

* You might want to put bolts back in
* You might want to get some longer bolts in the top holes to help guide it out and keep the top from spreading too much till you get the bottom out more.

 

Wedge some wood blocks between the trans case and bell to hold it square, then take the inspection cover off and see if you can get some rust spray onto the input shaft/clutch disc spline area.

 

This worked. I pulled the cover off and unbolted the clutch from the pressure plate. Transmission came right off! Seems the pilot bearing fused itself to the input shaft.




I’ll try sweet talking that clutch into giving me my transmission while I grab a beer. Appreciate everyone’s help!

 

that's a new one....thanks for showing the cause

 

i never understood why they would want an open bearing with all the dust and clutch crap flying around in there

 

The side facing the clutch is probably sealed. I'm kind of surprised to see actual ball bearing used instead of bronze bushing

 

Yep, and that is why we use Bronz Bushings. Not the first time I've seen that.

 

That's a new one. I am glad you found a way to get it apart.
Bob

 

Ball bearings make your synronizers work better! That’s the reason they are there!








Bones

 

Most folks have no idea what synronizers do or how they do it! Really, most folks just drive down the road shifting gears when they want to........ NOT when the are supposed to! Anytime you shift ,when you are not supposed to.... the synronizers have to either spin or slow down the clutch plate to match the speed of the engine vs the gear vs the road speed! Not an easy task! So a little less friction in the clutch plate support may help! That is the reason ball bearings are there! Think about it the next time you shift!








Bones

 

I was told and have read that pilot "bearings" are not compatible with older none hardened (compared to modern hardened) input shafts...………………………………………….
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Pilot_bearing_and_bushings

 

I assure you the old input shafts were “ hardened”! To what degree??? I’m not sure. But the were never just mild steel.






Bones

 

I should have also said the Iron content of the shaft has something to do with it!

 

A roller bearing w/a shield might serve, I'd pause before using a sealed bearing in high temp places

 

Original Fords used a bronze bushing, not the ball bearing. So I'd think the inputs are hard enough.

I once disassembled a rusty 99 Merc block from its transmission. The clutch disk was rusted solid to the input. And the engine and transmission were stuck too. There was no way to save both the block and the transmission, so I broke the bellhousing off the transmission so I could remove the bolts from the pressure plate. Saved the special block though.