So my 31 coupe was hot rodded at some point back in the day. Someone did a halfway decent job of filling the roof too. They even went so far as to weld the visor solid to the roof. Now, decades later, I'd like to replace the punky wood. Thing is, with that visor and roof welded solid, I'm scratching my head as how to remove and replace the wood in the top. Is this something others have encountered? How did you tackle it? Interested to hear your ideas before I do something dumb. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The header is in there for good... everything else you should be able to redo. You'll have to make some modifications, for sure.
If it has some soft spots maybe consider using an epoxy like West System 2 part marine epoxy. Might have better luck with the body flipped upside down because it can get runny. Repair might be less headache than replacement? Good luck
Isn't it just like replacing a floor joist in an existing house? You have the advantage of using the top of the roof for a template for the cross ties.
When I added a metal roof panel to my avatar I tack welded it onto the 'trough' every 4" and filled the trough with seam sealer. It appears to still be factory and has not leaked. The spot welds allow me to cut the panel loose to replace wood if ever needed and the spot welds help align and reattach the panel in the same place
There are probably all the original nails and maybe even screws from the trough down into the wood. You would need to chip that wood to pieces to remove it. And the replacement wouldn't be able to be attached in the same fashion, so you'd probably just need to prop it up from below with braces to the side wood over the door. I like the epoxy suggestions if the wood is even kinda savable. It's basically just used to hold the headliner up now.
Okay, I'm an Old Fu-- but have done several filled tops. I'm not going to do any more but still wondered. When doing them in the Past I would always remove all the wood prior to filling the hole. I did this because I couldn't fit and finish the way I wanted to and I didn't like setting the Wood on fire. Lap welds for me never worked. So I have to ask, (cause I'm Old and dumb) Why are you replacing the Wood in a filled top? If it's rotten and Buggs ya why not just dig it out and move on. Why take on an impossible task for what appears to me be for nothing? You don't need it to support the filled roof if it's actually welded in.
You know, I never thought about it like that. I could just cut it all out and call it good I suppose. When the time comes to put in a headliner (if I do) I could just do wire boughs right? Hmmmm. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Correct! I often make what I call hat channel to make the span across and 1/8" X 2" flat bar bent to make the corners up from top plate for header to hang on. Make life easy, don't fight a battle with no rewards.
That should say Headliner not header. I could probably find you a photo if your questioning how I do it.
Leave the wood where it is unless it's falling apart (doesn't look too bad), then you can still attach a headliner. Wire brush the roof then rustoleum the whole works. Done.
An oscillating saw would be my tool of choice for removal. I would assume the perimeter frame has screws, nails, and some other fasteners the PO use to secure the roof. You probably will end up leaving that unless it just would bother you too much. Unless it is coming lose, falling in your face, or smells, I would just remove the lose rotten pieces and move on. Pair it flat black or cover with some heat shield/sound deadener and move on. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The hot rod wood guys are above ^^^. I'm the home repair angle. If that wood received its "punky"-ness from being wet .. make sure you exorcise those old demons. Two fold .. stop the rust on the metal & treat the wood. Especially if epoxying in new wood. You can delve into vinegar & water .. 50/50 .. or commercial strength bleach .. or powdered wood bleach ( <<< careful with your lungs ) .. or a host of other substances. I like Sporicidin. It's a camphor/ menthol substance sold in janitorial supply houses. It'll make the wood appear new again, & stop further damage. I use it for black mold/mildew/etc. $25 to 40 bucks a gallon. You can follow immediately thereafter with your dealer, oil, or epoxy after drying. Your wallet & choice mileage may vary. Research soft wood repair online. Figure out what your needs are. I could write a book here .. but noone will read it, anyway. Bottom line - clean & then neutralize the damage. Then do your choice of repair.
I agree with repairing the wood in place. I had some bad spots on both side rails. I dug out the punk and liberally coated the bad area (and anything borderline on the rail) with wood hardner....turns wood hard as a rock. Then filled the divits with marine epoxy.
You'll find the side rails are nailed to the trough as well as bolted to the 1/4 window wood (from the top) to hold the door opening dimensions. It is also bolted to brackets in the corners of the header. The bows are also screwed in from the top. You will not be able to replace the header, rails and bows as they were originally. Unless you HAVE to jump down the rabbit hole, don't.
If you do want to replace the wood after removal, I did a small tech on it just a couple weeks ago. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/reinstall-wood-after-roof-insert-model-a-coupe.1190644/
That was a grate How To and very well photo documented as well as explained. I've felt for a long time the SEARCH icon should be 4 times it's size and a go to avenue before you can hit Post when posting up any question.
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