Building this '30 Model A Pick-Up Hot Rod is totally different to me. I will be boxing the frame. . no fenders, no running boards. Which holes don't I need? Which ones should I weld in a threaded plate?
Body. Engine, trans, brake/clutch mounts. Battery box. Steering. Headlight mounts. Shocks. Bumper brackets. Brake line clips. Fuel line clips. Wire clips for lights. Some of the smaller ones you can just tap the frame rail. Charlie Stephens
memory says we used to holesaw out about 1.5" hole under the body bolts … I think about 5 each side... cowl, seat front, B pillar [2], front of wheelwell, starting the nuts is a bear... put 2 or 3 nuts in a socket, or masking tape a nut into a box end wrench... or snap off the 3 tabs on a T nut and weld them centered in the bolt holes... a buddy made 45* cut square tube brackets and welded them to the boxing plates... another ran long 5"-6" bolts through the subfloor, mounting blocks and the frame. I use the T nuts... bought a mason jar of 5/16"-18 T nuts and one of 3/8 flat washers from a schoolmate with macular degeneration for $1 each... he can't see to do the woodworking he loves... bummer.
What era are you building the truck around? My only issue with welding up all the holes is that it takes the soul these neat frames come with. That said, whatever you're not using, weld that up. I boxed my frame and only filled the engine mount holes to address some minor pitting. I left the rosettes because I like the rawness of welds. If you weld, will you smooth the rails?
Yeah, not worried about anything I can drill later. Fuel lines etc, fall in that category. Worried about something I may need, just not think about now, that I may close up by boxing the frame.
Not so much worried about smoothing everything. I'm trying to think ahead about something I may want to bolt to the frame and wish I could get inside the rail. If I can out a threaded piece in there first, then happy face.
I used these boxing plates. I had welded in nuts where I knew I needed bolts but I still had access when some plans evolved. It wasn't much more money to have a hole eleminated and another hole moved. https://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/ModelADimpledboxingplates.html Phil
When bodies are bolted down they NEVER line up perfectly with all the original holes in the frame. Lots of things cause this, but it's mostly because we weld on stuff when it's not attached to the other component. The major components move around a bit when people box frames, add crossmembers, replace floors, modify firewalls, etc. I think it's not good to just weld a nut on the under side of the frame and assume the body's hole is gonna line up with it when done. An alternative is to weld a thick slab under the hole and drill/tap after the body is positioned later. Or better yet, cut a hole in the boxing plate like Sloppy does and have a bunch of wiggle room on the mounting hole. And, if that nut ever gets buggered you aren't trapped with bad threads in an inaccessible hole. Just replace the regular old loose nut.
The body holes are obvious places I will need to use. I was wondering about places I might not think about that someone has already been through this.
Don't remove the side brackets for the cowl mount. Or if you do, weld in nuts to bolt them on. Otherwise it's just engine and suspension stuff that only you can answer where they go. I guess if you are using a hood with original hooks you will need to place steel under the hook mounting holes. Those are small holes and I again recommend just welding some 1/4" plate under there and drilling/tapping later. Note the front location might have holes for 28/9 hooks and 30/1 hooks drilled. I forget which is which.
@Charlie Stephens pretty much summed the list up in the first response. Not knowing your plan makes it had for suggestions beyond that. Maybe provisions for bolt on exhaust hangers? Brake line tab mounts? Could you picture ever running fenders? If so, add them in the running board mounts. My chassis got a bunch of deep weld nuts for the body mounts before boxing. And, I am running fenders, so I put them in the running board mount locations. I used Wolf's plates too, but the 3/16ths stuff so I could tap it for gas and brake lines and wiring.
Th pieces you guys posted are nice, for fasteners. But I already have plenty of weld in bungs/tabs I'm going to use.
No fenders or running boards. I don't think I'm too worried about brake and fuel lines, they are easy to add to the inside of the boxed frame. Mt bed is nothing but pieces at this point. How many, which holes are used for the bed? The cowl is obvious and I have the cowl. I may build a cab from wood. Which holes were originally used for the cab?
I see 4 holes that are needed to access the body mounting bolts... they are ; front cowl, mid door, B pillar... beginning of wheelwell, the 2 rear cowl bolts and the rear/ overaxle bolts are outside the frame... I like to leave 3/8" of the frame's lower lip showing so I can tap it later... sometimes there is no horizontal room to drill the boxing plates... the flange helps protect brake, tranny fluid and gas lines...
You don't mean you do this with the frame boxing??? Your 3/8 of access ?? or do you slip it in the same 3/8 at the top as well?
If the plates are flush at the top and angle outward at the bottom to leave the 3/8" flange will still strengthen the frame... if the plates leave a 3/8" flange top and bottom will also do the trick... I just find the flange handy if I need to add something later... it lets me tuck a brake line into the L so it can't be damaged.. go pete go ! thanks charley, I had never seen these floating cage nuts, bought [20] 5/16"-18 on ebay tonight... $28.00....
Hello Pete you do a hell of a job. Like the looks of that new shop. Isn't this more fun than working on a Mustang. Stay well
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