Technical ***April 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Shelter in Shop***

I don't think so. nice spark to points and no pitting or marks. I'm going to change them once I get a new set after the lock down. Thanks for the reply I'm going to try all suggestions. I'm still learning

 

When I first drove mine (after importing) down the drive it was fine but could I get back up the drive? Spluttered and banged and hardly drove! Condenser had failed just like that! Worth a check...

Sent from my SM-A320FL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks poshdbs
I'm going to see if the local motor factors is open they used to open on Sunday or if they are even open at all .Don't worry I'm keeping within the 2k radius. Thank you and stay safe. Murf

 

@murf 32 Lets see if I can get my head around this. The B timing cover is drilled so it is something like 9 degrees cam advance from the A timing cover. That 9 degrees cam advance is 18 degrees distributor advance. So you need to rotate the rotor and cam in the direction of rotation, some 19 degrees, from where you would time an engine with an A cover when you static time it.
Did I state that in an understandable way?

 

Been working on a messed up rear fender on the Vicky...body work sure does take time....I guess that is why I'm a leg man


Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I think so.
It has a B cover on it. I have it nearly there.I think. I will try what you were suggesting. I was hoping there was like a nurex magic timing tool for the B. Lol. Just got a new condenser also. Thanks for all your help. Murf

 

maybe not, the distributor angle is 1/2 of the crank angle. Crank make 720 degrees for every 360 of dist.
I try to make it as simple as possible, if the TDC is known on the motor, some use the cover and dimple.
Set the motor at TDC.
Rotate the crank to where you want it to fire, typically 5-10 degrees before TDC depending on the distributor.
Now disconnect the condenser and coil from the distributor.
Use an OHM meter or continuity tester thru the points.
The instant the points open is when the spark occurs, this is same for setting a mag.

Hope this helps, John

 

Unfortunately I don't! However, If I did it again I would make it an actual Dry Sump; which it really is now, with the reservoir beneath the crankcase. I'd put the reservoir elsewhere because, as can be seen in the photos it sticks too low beneath the engine!

 

Yes,
John what you say is true and I'm always going to be confused and I still get my b and d backwards. I knew someone would auto correct me if I was backwards. Thank you. I believe that his problem is with initial timing not anything else.
If he has a B cover it is not drilled for TDC it is advanced so if you use it for TDC like an A it isn't TDC
I always install an A cover on a B engine to make static timing it simpler and verify TDC. easy to achieve with the head off

 

Winduptoy,

If it works for you it is good to go!! no worries!
I have been working on distributors lately, there is so much difference between flathead configuration and OHV it can make your head swim. The other issue I see are distributors that are just plain worn out or someone at some time, well, just wasn't thinking.
There were some Mallory 4 cyl distributors on eBay about a month ago, easy to modify to the "A,B" motors. Sometimes just starting with something new makes all the difference.

John, dry sump is the only way to go, the pumps get expensive but offset the work to make a pan or worst.
My latest monster actually picked up 4 1/2" clearance under the motor complete with windage scrapers and no external plumbing to the scavenge pumps. One last note about dry sump, if you actually pull vacuum on the crankcase you can make a few more HP.

John

 

Here is a dust cap that will work on an A hub. Have to make the stock washer smaller.

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Got my engine running a lot better put in new condenser and adjusted the timing. 90% there.
Thank you Gentleman for your help
Keep safe
Murf

 

I absolutely agree with you, John Neilson! For reliable lubrication (and COOLING) of hi-performance engines a Dry Sump system is perfect. As mentioned the system I used on my old race car has glaring flaws: The total height of the engine is too much, limiting ground clearance and raising the Center of Gravity. The advantages of the system are: the oil is kept away from the spinning crankcase (greater power as RPM increases); volume of oil in reserve can be increased as much as 50% (less aeration and more cooling) and volume and pressure, which is adjustable is distributed evenly to all bearing surfaces! I'm able to accomplish this through one single stage pump. It's from Stock Car Products. A component cooling pump (SCP #101). As I've indicated, it's driven by a Gilmer Belt off the crank. We had to fabricate a bracket to hang the pump and a drive mandrel on the crank. Because I'm not going to build this system again I sent the hard copies of my design to "Bluto" over ten years ago. Any images I saved went with a computer crash shortly after that! But for those who want to put such a system together: "It's NOT rocket science"!

 

Does any one see anything wrong with mounting my Model A carb way down by the framerail and making an intake tube going all the way up to my Frontenac head? The reality is the height is probably 5" - 6" higher than a stock model T carb that sits in about the same proximity height wise near the frame. Space is kind of at a premium on this side of the engine so not much choices here. I was trying to stay away from using a fuel pump and mounting the carb higher to keep it more traditional. Just wondering what the thoughts on a long intake tract like that might do performance wise.

 

John,
yes, the motor is just too tall in vertical orientation, I love those old Indy roadsters with the laid over motors.
I made my last one mount the pump directly off the scavenge plate assy, and use HTD type belts.
I am afraid those pictures are gone forever, I miss Bluto, Jim had the right experience and background here.

stay safe, John

 

I don't have anything in my experience that could say good or bad. But thinking about it, I don't know why not especially if you don't want to pressure feed it other than gravity. One way to find out
Linkage will be fun

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hi guitarguy: I have posted two pictures.... one picture is of a 1918 Model T with a Rajo 4 Valve that now belongs to winduptoy. I ended up with two NH carbs, a 6 volt fuel pump and a Holley pressure regulator.
The next picture is one of my attempts to locate a Model A carb low enough in order not to run a pump. The intake is a Winfield intake flipped upside down and added a tube to allow gravity to supply fuel to carb.
This did work, however while driving the engine started to loose power and would shut off. Coast to the side of the road and check under the hood. There was a liquid coming out of the carb, thinking it was a float problem I turned off the fuel. It turned out to be mostly water.
Long story short the intake tube had a lot of frost on the outside, and there is enough frost to close up the intake tube and shut off the engine. Once some of the engine heat warmed the intake and all the frost melted I started the car and drove home and water once again ran out of the carb.
You can draw air/fuel that far but without carb heat you may run into problems. Gary in MN

 

my only question is : will it be able to draw sufficient air (updraft) .

 

I thought that may happen Gary in MN. I have seen copper pipes coiled around manifolds to warm with engine coolant.

 

@Gary in MN , First off, THANK YOU for the great reply. I was wondering about the ice factor myself, as my stock T's will ice over without the heat shield intake in place. I guess I can hide an electric pump easy enough somewhere and run a carb up by the inlet of the head like I see so many used to--and still do. I wonder what they used to do for pumps way back when though. I know there were vacuum cans but I cant imagine everyone ran those. I know that had hand pumps---but wold it really push fuel up hill fairly consistently? Were there small electric pumps back then? I'm really trying my best to keep it 1935-ish era on the build.

@V4F I too was wondering about the flow dynamics of the tube.

I appreciate any input, You all are the best, but don't think I gave this zero thought before posting. I like to reach an unreasonable conclusion before I post such non-sense and asking crazy questions.

 

guitarguy, MG used electric fuel pumps at least as far back as 1932.

 

Napa NOE 7351424 $5.12 ea

 

I know that had hand pumps---but wold it really push fuel up hill fairly consistently?

@guitarguy,

I'm running a hand pump, and it works surprisingly well. I think the main thing is to have the system as airtight as possible. I've also heard of old timers using exhaust to pressurize the tank. Sounds dangerous until you think about it. Not much O2 in exhaust.

 

@rwrj , LOL, a friend of mine just mentioned the exhaust pressurizing deal. How often are you pumping to pressurize it? I assumed you were using gravity feed or a electric pump.

 

An exhaust-pressurized fuel tank was original equipment on the 1912 Oldsmobile Autocrat.

 

We used to use the fuel pump on the Ford flatties to pressurize the tank, so if you had a "B" block with either a flathead or pushrod conversion, the original fuel pump could be used to pressurize the tank. It wouldn't be that difficult to come up with something similar for almost any application.

 

I can run about 10 or 15 minutes before I have to fool with it, if I start at 3 psi. My carbs run fine down to 1psi. It changes a bit depending on how full the tank is. It'll run for much longer if it's almost empyty, because there's so much air volume. I have to pump every few minutes on a full tank, but it only takes a few pumps to catch me back up, whereas a nearly empty tank takes a lot of pumping. It's a trade-off.

 

Hi guys, I've been lurking here for a while now, but thought I'd go ahead and introduce myself. My name is Matt. I grew up around Model A's, taught to work on them by my Dad and Grandpa. Now that they're gone, I take care of my 30 Coupe and 29 Fordor. They're both stock body, but we've always appreciated hopping them up. During the quarantine I finally decided to replace the Weber on the fordor with a more correct looking dual updraft setup. So far, I'm really happy with the throttle response and power. The engine has insert bearings, touring cam, oversize intake valves, and a 5.9 Brumfield head.

 

Nice and room with power now for your friends. Thanks for sharing

 

One of those things that makes the inter webs the best. Found a set of original Firestone wheels for the T, but the rims are a tad rough...you might be able to shave with them. Posted for help over on the AACA forum, a gentleman sends me a name and a number. Place a call, a week later and I have 4 good rims. Wow. 20 years ago and you might have spent 20 years looking.




Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.