Technical Mounting a Removable Fiberglass Hood Scoop

I'm looking to mount this scoop on top of my hood since it's wider than the hole and I'm not interested in making the hole bigger. I like the option of changing scoops up if I want with other Hilborn type scoops I have.
I was thinking of trimming that flange down because it flares up and of course at the rear and maybe like #8 or #10 machine screws of some sort to hold it down. I don't want giant holes in the hood to be crazy obvious when I run the other scoop, that's why I was thinking the small machine screws.
What other suggestions for mounting the scoop from you professional or not so professional body guys ?

 

I would use small carriage bolts and paint the heads to match the hood

 

Just a word of caution. It looks like you have the front up on jack stands and the rear wheels on skates. Someone leans on the car and its going down. It almost happened to me once. Scary stuff.

 

How about Dzus fasteners . Pop on , pop off .

 

Agree with this^ But- How often will it be removed, and will the aesthetics suffice your needs?
It IS the easiest/fastest way to be removed,.......But.......What's the goal?

 

I don't like it.

 

You could make a second flange that matches the scoop, and put those T nuts in-between the two layers and laminate it back together so the fasteners don't show. Then I'd JB weld some studs in the t nuts and drop it in pace, throw a handful of wing nuts on the underside and done. That...or velcro

 

I like this idea, I'd look for SS and polish up the button.

 

I have No idea. Just wanted a better view of your avatar.

 

If you don't like any idea's above you could make the scoop a "shaker" type scoop by mounting it to the center air cleaner studs or studs...…………………...

 

Don't laugh - Flex tape is unbelieveably strong. Early in the winter, I nearly rubbed a mirror of the SUV. Flex taped it on with two little strips. Held all winter through snow and rain. When I fixed it right last week, It took acetone on a rag a rag to get it to release.

 

I thought about using the same button head fasteners I used to secure the stainless firewall insert.
Trying to get it to sit flush on the hood with the least amount of fasteners is the tricky part.

 

Fab up a 2” wide horse shoe flange, make the inside smaller than the scoop, glass it to the bottom of the scoop. Drill 1/2” holes in the aluminum, that way when you glass it on the bottom flange of the scoop, you will have an adhesive and mechanical bond. Put some nut plates on the top of the flange inside the scoop, drill up from the underside of the hood and screw or bolt it from the bottom side of the hood. Won’t see any fasteners from the outside!

 

Two sided 3M trim tape.

 

I can't make out what kiwikev used here, I remember 9sectruck making an aluminum cover when he bought the truck and added a blower.

 

I plan on this car running about a buck298 going down track so I'd rather have a mechanical bond over Phil Swifts magical adhesive tape..ha ha

 

10-24 riv nuts


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Bond a strip of sheet metal on both side's, an get half a dozen rare earth magnets,
Thin film of 3M tape on bottom of sheet metal... Assuming the clip is glass..
You'll be good for 200 mph

 

Or as mentioned, Velcro on that much surface area is easily possible also, now if it fit on the underside/up through... Boom!

 

Uh...no magnets....this guy is 100% paced with a pacemaker, magnets do not play well with it.

 

Sorry dog, No Bueno!!! Velcro.. I'll post pics later how I mounted aluminum number plates on a Café bike I built...

 

Since you want to be able to remove it whenever you feel like it, double sided tape and velcro are out in my mind. I would suggest a few (maybe 4 to 5 on each side) small bolts (8-32 to 10-24 or something like that). Just use fender washers on the outside of the scoop to spread the load. I would do nutserts on the hood. When the scoop is off, just put the bolts back in the nutserts and they will basically disappear.

The thing I don't like is you will still have an uncovered area at the back corners of the scoop, that just looks wrong to me. I would lengthen the scoop so it sits back on the edge on the cowl if needed to cover the entire hole in the hood. No mater what/how you choose to mount it, those holes at the back corners will draw more attention then the mounting method.

SPark

 

With that hood split all the way to the cowl I do not see anything temporary holding it all together. At speed with the back of that hood split and the scoop not sealing it all up I see the hood cracking and breaking the scoop as the whole assembly lifts off and lands back on the track for the crew to clean up. If they even let you pass tech. Rivets or 1/4" bolts with fender washers and seal the back of it up. The local track that I go to would not let it run with that back open. Depends on how strict (safety conscious) the track is.

 

The car had over 200 passes on it with the hood just the way it is, 124 +mph and it didn't fall off, or crack or any of that other idiotic nonsense you mentioned, passed tech at multiple tracks too. I guess you didn't have any knowledge to the obvious question that I asked to come up with that reply.
I guess you didn't notice the engine is set back into the firewall, kinda hard to keep the hood stock when it has to tilt forward over the scoop....good greif, always one in the crowd.

 

As long as you don’t hug it you will be fine.


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OK, You didn't like the "shaker" idea, how about this.
Cut the left outside flange and re glass it to the right IN side, take the right outside flange and re glass to IN side left. Now whatever you use to mount it, bolts, nut zerts, etc. will be sorta hidden? On the plus side you could kill 2 birds by flatting the flanges before re glassing. I would also be tempted to contour the back of scoop to fill the void back there..…………………….

 

The scoop is wider than the hole, I don't want to make the hole any bigger because then you'd have a giant hole with the other scoop, so the "shaker" bolted to the carbs won't work. Besides the motor is solid mounted so nothing shakes, I figured that out by making a shaker for the truck that doesn't shake.
The scoop has to go on top and of course I'd fill in the gaps in back, once I slide the scoop back further and see what I'm working with, but those gaps really have nothing to do with mounting the scoop.

 

You didn't understand any part of my 2 post's, I will take the blame for not being able to put my thoughts in words. No body cares if it shakes or not shakes, it was just a way of putting a name on the style. I never implied the gaps had anything to do with mounting the scoops. It's just that their un slightly & and un finished looking on an otherwise great looking Henry J...…………

 

Here's my other "shaker" scoop on my 41, so you can see that I filled in the square hole and made it nice and form fitting to this scoop. I didn't bring up filling in the gaps on the white scoop because I thought that was a pretty obvious thing to do, just more curious about alternative mounting solutions that I may have not thought of.

 

Chicago screws.........
(Use rubber washers inside the hood and medium strength thread locker because of lots of vibration.)
https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screws-Plain-Pcs-Silver/dp/B00355AN4U

https://www.google.com/search?q=chicago+screws&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS777US777&sxsrf=ALeKk01XZOo7tzZ3b4uNts4G6OsL99KKOA:1587618692007&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=Ty4IPlmgoA2_vM%3A%2CWzvXH19Q9s4kuM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQl9eNwjK6XhnrPGfNoqmuOWurOhw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjw2bPB5P3oAhUGeKwKHbtoBDIQ_h0wAXoECAwQBA&biw=1600&bih=757#imgrc=Ty4IPlmgoA2_vM: