Anyone have any experience using an oil based primer with acrylic or urethane enamel top coat? Why? I use TCP Global and have always used their primer mated with their top coat, I only paint acrylic enamel or urethane enamel. Yesterday I went to my paint storage (old refridgerator) to use my next gallon of never opened primer, only to find that half of it had solidified..sucks. So I got to thinking about the conveinience of my local Tractor Supply, not to mention the low cost.
I found it listed on their web site (albeit, maybe not updated). Naturally the next question would be, okay to paint my acrylic over water based primer?
Don't take a chance of using products that may not be compatible. Flaws may not show up until a few years pass. Spend the dough and use the "system" recommended by the paint manufacturer.
I agree..and always have to this point. But, when I'm ready to use it and half of it has solidified, it made me think of a more logical, practical, and efficient method.
For me it depends on what I’m painting. For a customer it’s a no or something that I need to look perfect If it’s a part for a beater car or equipment I wouldn’t hesitate. That being said, oil based primers usually seem to lay on bare metal instead of bonding to it like automotive primers do. What are you painting.
Years ago there was a alkyd enamel primer sealer that we used under Centari acrylic enamels. All Dupont products that worked well together.
Generally all synthetic /alkyd enamels will be fine, once fully cured 2 to 3 weeks is my guideline. Oil based primers can be cut with urethane grade reducer too or xylene and acetone. Many I know will use rusty metal primer, followed by fillers and urethane primer surfacers on top. When in doubt test a small area, if primer ain't fully cured or solvents too aggressive can and will bubble. Good luck
I shot my fiberglass boat with Rustoleum gray primer, and turquoise catalyzed Starthane polyurethane in 1999. It's been touched up a lot from scratches, but still looks good, and nothing blistered or fell off. I do keep it covered when not in use. It's not particularly clean in this 2018 photo
Separated for sure, but seems much more than just that..I'd be surprised if any amount of shaking would mix it back to its original composition. I have put a paint stick in the can, and after prying to get thru to the bottom of the can, came up with a gooey mass at its best, and solid at its worst. I can see this happening again in the future, as I only paint a car every year or so, which is why I'm considering alternatives, as I know the meaning of insanity. I appreciate the response.
I just got back from my local Tractor Supply (Yes, I also needed groceries at the Safeway) I bought their gallon of oil based gray primer ($19.95) so will be starting my in house testing on some metal I have. I'll post results in a couple of weeks, and let you know the results. Thanks for the replies.
I sprayed NAPA Martin Senour enamel over Rustoleum red oxide primer on a VW Bug one time. Paint looked great for about 6 months, then it came off in sheets, leaving the red oxide primer. It didn't adhere to the red oxide worth a damn. I just left it in the red oxide primer after that.
I used to use Napa Martin Senour paints too, long ago. I started having probs with shrinkage, weathering too soon etc. I switched to other more expensive brands and discovered why Napa paints were so competitively priced. I believe they skimp on important additives that prevent shrinkage and early aging. I went to a higher quality paint and all was well again. WHY BE ORDINARY ?
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