I have the one on the left and like it. Not sure if it’s the right one for the job . The nib ( male)goes to the back side and flaps on the terminal go to the rounded side ( female). The one on the right is for plug wires I think.
Thanks Bill, yeah that's my go to for the usual crimps but when I do these it looks like a 5 year old did it.
I was told the indentation is supposed to be on the opposite side of the split in the terminal. I have both kind as well. Usually go for the left side pair. I seldom use ends like you show. Usually use the kind that are round already.
The connectors you show in your photo, one set of tabs is for the conductor and the other set is for the insulation. I don't know if it is correct but using that type of connector, I always bend the ears over on to the stripped conductor using needle nosed pliers, then crimp... Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Mine look like a 4 year old did them so you better than me, that’s what they make heat stink tubing for
Paul, For Packard terminals the crimp needs to double fold inwards. You need a crimper with the peak in the centre of one side so they fold inwards. You need a wire stripper as well
Just bought the correct crimper from O'Reilly's for $32.00. The part number is SG 18600. When I worked for Freightliner we had all the crimping tools in kits for Packard 56 terminals (that's what you were showing) and other terminals used in the truck wiring. The Packard tools are still available, but they are around $100.00. I just tried the O'Reilly tool and it works perfect.
I used those style terminals for everything on my RPU. They’re the best way to make connections as the other guys have said the small ears grab the wire and the large ones crimp to the insulation for strain relief. I also used a short piece of dual wall (glue lined) heat shrink on them. They’re vastly superior to other crimp connectors, there’s a reason why the OEM s use them. Those style connections can be hard to find, I found American Autowire had a good selection and you can order them through Summit. I bought their set of crimping tools, a good investment that made wiring my RPU a lot easier and did a top quality job.
Don’t get me started on crimps! Lol ........ I crimp and solder and heat shrink! Been doing it for 40+ years with success! But I was told here on the HAMB, I have been doing it wrong! I have several crimp tools! I use the one that best fits the terminal and wire. I have never had one of my thousands of connections ever fail! Must be doing something right! Bones
Bones,Lol. The tool should have the insulation and the wire crimps in the same direction so don't have to keep rotating the tool?
I never use “ insulated” terminals! If I am forced to use one, I remove the insulation! You cannot crimp a terminal with insulation on it! It is impossible! I am a uninsulated terminal guy that crimps the terminal as properly as possible, I have at least a half a dozen crimping tools, then I hit it with some solder, then cover it with heat shrink. But proper soldering techniques are very important! Bones
I also use nothing but uninsulated terminals and shrink tube. The crimp tool of choice for me is this one: https://www.jensentools.com/eclipse...per-for-red-blue-yellow-terminals/p/711pl0002 I have a number of inserts for the jaws that are specific to the type of terminal I am installing, it does pin connectors(Packard) in one operation. I have been purchasing my terminals from Waytek, I prefer not use solder. Jim
You can order the Packard terminals form mouser electronics. The spelling might not be correct. You can use them no solder required. In the factory we could do a wire repair and never have an issue. They are expensive. The Packard pliers will crimp the insulated terminals nicely. I take the plastic off with the rotating wire brush.
Well....i have never seen uninsulated terminals at the auto parts store...or i have not been looking. Learned something new again.
It’s kinda my pet peeve, insulted terminals! I have seen real nice electrical systems in vehicles, color coded, routed nicely, labeled etc, then I see that they used crappy crimp pliers on an insulated terminal! I about up chuck! Really. Over the years I have acquired thousands of uninsulated terminals. Last Summer I bought a quart jar full of them at a flea market for $5. Wether you decide to solder or not, use the proper crimping tool on uninsulated terminals and follow up with a good quality heat shrink! Makes for a good connection, it will last forever and looks marvelous! Just my .02 , after a 33 year career working with a fleet that has a lot of wires! Lol Bones
I do have a few other crimpers but my "go to" set I've had for 50 years, made by Essex Terminals who made wire harnesses for the big 3. We never soldered wire terminals. The wire is stripped to length allowing it to be crimped separately than the insulation. There sometimes seems to be a little confusion about "insulated". When I refer to insulation, I'm talking about the wire covering, not the plastic ends on cheap aftermarket terminals, which I have no use for. EDIT: Great video Blue One, explains it well.
I see so many crimps in my line of work, most are insulated and hold well if they are crimped correctly and you have sufficient strain relief. We are a bug about tool calibration and training at work. Remember the days when we stripped wire with a Bic lighter and two fingers? Crimps were done with cutting pliers.
Those “daul” crimp terminal are great, but hard to find. Those use the first crimp for the wire for electrical connection and the second crimps the wires insulation to “ spread” the flexing of the wire, so that it doesn’t break right at the first crimp joint. By using simple uninsulated terminals and crimping and soldering, or not and putting a heat shrink on the terminal and wires insulation, you accomplish the same thing. The heat shrink “ supports” the wire, spreading out the flex, so that is doesn’t break at the terminal. Bones
Soldering sure couldn't hurt, but being in a fast paced production environment we couldn't justify the time or expense. My son recently showed me a very nice pair of crimpers he uses for work. He is a machine repair man. They had a whole lot more capability/versatility than anything I ever used. I'll ask him for some more details but I know they had to cost more than I would be willing to spend. Using a simple set like in my pic, there are quite a few different operations that can be done, not readily apparent for prepping or custom/odd terminals.
I bought this set at princess auto, Canada’s version of harbour freight. works very well on all types of crimp connections. I’ve done thousands of crimps with insulated connectors and the “ fancy ones with the heat shrink already in them, without failure. rhe big thing is buying quality crumps, the cheap ones are just that ..... CHEAP !!! They fold and bend etc. a quality crimp connection with quality wire and a good tool makes a great crimp these are my go to crumpets for most jobs.
That, my friends it the correct answer! A quality crimp! Sometimes that is a little difficult to accomplish. But one easy back yard test you can perform, while working for yourself, is to see if you can pull the wire out of the terminal. Give it a “ good” pull! If it comes out.... bad crimp! I have had some “ factory” crimps cause a bad connection! Just because it was crimped at some factory don’t assume it’s a perfect crimp. That’s why I crimp and solder! Not telling anyone to do it, as I have been informed it is not the proper way. But on my shit, it’s going to get both crimp and solder and then a heat shrink! It’s hard to teach old dogs new tricks! Lol Bones
I've a few pairs of Molex crimpers that do the same thing, but for smaller stuff, I also have just had the light bulb come on and know what that other crimper I have is for! I also hate crimping over a plastic insulator, looks like shit when done, even with my Kliens, the plastic will want to squish out some. I too, long ago just went with non-insulated ones and heatshrink or tape, depending what I have nearby.
For Packard terminals, this: is the best answer. A clip on the back holds the terminal in place. Insert wire, squeeze, done. Perfect crimps, every time. A friend (Ed) runs greatplainselectronics.com and can hook you up with one. His crimper prices are very good, too. Automotive connectors and wire are designed for crimps, not solder. A good crimp is air-tight and will last forever. Solder makes the joint more brittle. You can do it, lots of guys do, but it’s still not the right way to make a secure wire to connector joint. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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