Don't see anything. But is ok, got tge one all clean, now ready to install and looking up torque sequence and ft lbs
Cool. Movin' right along. Can you see this? It was (is) a screenshot, so there may be some electro-gizmo-incompatibility. It shows on my phone.
Did you get the copper sealer? I think it's pretty important on such a thin gasket. Especially around the water passages.
Lol, thats cool. Went to get copper and oreillys said no need since its not copper gasket it's the otger type. So I just put gaskets and heads on
I wouldn't bother on a stock engine for street use [unless the crank needs grinding anyway] In my case, the engine got rebuilt when it was 62 years old , and it stayed on all this time. I doubt if the OP's engine will see over 4000 RPM for extended periods. Even though I have seen this done before, a bolt is not the fix for a loose fitting balancer.
How do I know if the balancer is loose or not?? Aren't the pressed on?? If not, what should I do? Thanks
Copper Coat gasket sealer isn't used on copper gaskets, it has copper in the sealer and it is advisable to use it or aluminum spray paint will work also on the steel gaskets. The counter guy at O'Reilly's that told you it wasn't needed probably doesn't have the knowledge or experience to make that recommendation!
Well both gaskets had some kind of silver stuff all over them that comes off whennyou handle them, but anyway I cleaned both heads (AGAIN) and bothhalfs of the block to remove the etc and put the cleabed gaskets abd heads back on. Torqyed them both and now putting the intake on. Then waiting dor my neighbor to show up with hus engine hoist and hopefully get rhis done tomorrow if possible!!!
If you have to press it on, it isn't loose. The comment I made previously was about a balancer where you could feel the clearance on the crank snout. If you needed a puller to remove it , then you are OK to re-use it. Heat it in an oven before you press it on [using a block of wood and a mallet] once the temp equalizes with the crank, it is on for good.
I never went so far as to pull the crank. I left it in place, but did all the rest. How far on, or how snug up on the shaft is the balancer supposed to be? Now I can't seem to line up TDC at the dizzy. I know number 1 is at full tdc right now but the dizzy position when i looked up firing order says its where number 8 should be!
Ok, figured it out, got her all back togetger and just one valve cover to go and shes done! (For now!) Haha Also, had to loosen the dizzy in order to make the intake sit flush and then spun flywheel by hand and got timing marks to line up just right. How tight does the distributor have to be? Is it supposed to swivel like the 235 for vacuum advance or does it stay in place? Thanks
It looks good, E. Real clean. Not all prettified, but what the heck, it's an engine, not jewelry. Just tighten it a little for now if you know that the rotor is pointing at the post you are going to use for #1. You might need to turn it a little (very little) for the first start. This is jumping ahead a little, but I'll tell you the trick to fine-tuning the timing. You know how a motor twists when you rev it? That is torque. So you adjust the timing while you are revving it and watching (and feeling) for the most torque. Yeah, I can't wait either. I'll tell you how to fine-tune the carb when you get there. Oh, I didn't want to answer the other questions with "I don't know." or "I think..." * "...a little for now." Just enough to keep it from turning.
Lol, well honesty is big with me, so I appreciate (about the other questions) And thats cool, fine tuning is always needed in rebuilds of any kind. Thanks
That doesn't matter. Make that the new "No 1" and re-do the plug leads to the correct firing order. But if you want the dist in the original position [or a particular position] you need to rotate oil pump drive a little with a screwdriver and it will line up The distributor should be tight once timing is set..........It advances internally on it's own shaft. Normal Chevy 283 distributors have 12 deg advance [24 deg at the crank] So you need 8 deg static advance [done with a test light] and it should give you 32 deg total advance at about 2500-3000 rpm [8+24 deg]
I forgot to mention yesterday that I zero'd out the timing marks on the harmonic balancer with the center line on timing plate, (@ 0 - centered) then set the #1 piston @ TDC and got the dizzy to line up at #1 on the rotor, marked the dist cap where #1 is. When I spun engine over by hand = no plugs installed, there is good compression coming from each hole, I'm still new at this, but I think that is the best sign so far!
Yeah it is. You really tore into it E. It seems like it was just last week that you were worried about water in the cylinder and the oil pan dent. And the "chocolate milk" that came out of it. I'm looking forward to a picture of it between the fenders.
Tried to read all of the posts, so sorry if repeating anything here. I love 283's.....(coming from a (76) year old) and think you will really like yours. Totally my opinion only, but I would not bother with headers for your use, as I don't think you will be running the RPM's to really benefit from them. I used 2 1/2" Corvette Ram Horns with full 2 1/2" exhaust. My 283 is bored 60 over to 292 cubes, and has newer 305 heads. Running a Edelbrock 500cfm Carb with Edelbrock Performer intake. I started with an L79 cam (350hp covette 327) and it was a nice snappy little engine. I have a Saginaw four speed with a 3:11 first gear and running a 3:73 rear end. However, the "Always wanting More" brain of mine, made me switch to a Compcam 270H, which really woke it up. It is a little screamer now, even running in a not light '63 Biscayne. Enjoy and as said above, we need pictures of it "Between the Fenders"
I can't wait to get her installed and hear her running for first time. Gonna take it easy for first few miles just to make sure everything sounds and feel right. Then gradually open her up as I go.
Like @Dick Stevens said, the guys behind the counter at O'reillys have probably only seen a head gasket through the plastic packaging. Did you torque the heads down, then remove them, scrape off the black RTV, then put them back on? If so, watch the coolant with the radiator cap off to see if any bubbles float up when it is running. If you do, re-torque the heads to see if the bubbling will quit. It is advisable to spray some copper coat or a couple heavy layers of aluminum paint on those plain steel gaskets before installation but it sounds like you're well beyond that point now..
I'll keep my eyes on coolant and if (if) it bubbles constantly and shows signs of leakage or whatnot then yeah will definitely retorque to try to fix it. I'm not expecting any issues though, think I've done pretty good
He was talking about Bob's Biscayne. Good luck with the drop-in today. It shouldn't be much harder than pulling the other one. Just go slow. Be careful. It's hardest when it's almost there, but remember it's almost there.
Ah, yes that is a nice looking car! And yeah, won't be drop in today, I don't have bell to mate up to the engine. Have to get that first and then it will be ready to go for it.
**UPDATE** Found a bell housing from a guy in Al. willing to ship to me, has correct numbers to match my setup so I am sure it will be read as soon as I get the thing and install everything in its appropriate place. Haven't heard from him since last week, but I am sure that probably has to do with all the closings and the epidemic going around the country. Will let y'all know as soon as I get it and set it all up and ready to drop in. Thanks for all the advice, helpful info, and encouragement along the way. Eric = AKA Mr. E
Bell housing just arrived this morning, so will be going to see my neighbor about using the engine hoist. Hoping all goes well and she fires up & runs without any trouble or problems.
Neighbors shop is closed, I am assuming because of the current lockdown and only essential businesses being open. Will try again this week to see if he is around, otherwise I may just have to buy one my self somewhere. Will keep you all updated as I proceed. Stay safe and well out there, hopefully this will all be done and country can go back to normal soon
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