Projects BChrismer's Beater '40 Ford Panel Project

Dang, I have to pee so many times between your next posted pictures. I think you are part of the cause of increased frequency.

 

Those yellow plug wires look like
spaghetti on that orange engine. Might have to letter the side “Brets mustache wax and meat balls” lol

 

The flatty is actually red with lots of oily residue on it.

Speaking of that, I may have to hit my buddy, "Fat Tony" to rent advertising for Fat Tony's Pizza on one side, and Bret Chrismer's Mustache wax on the other. Good thinking!

 

LOL. Yeah, I forgot to take pictures the last time I was out there, and I also forgot to take a shot of the exhaust that ends under the floor section that Mike tacked in yesterday.

Back when I converted the stake truck over to dual exhaust, Red's Headers still was selling dual exhaust extensions from the manifolds back to the X member. When I swapped the SBC in the stake truck, I held on to all that stuff for a "future project", which I was hoping to be a flatty powered convertible, but this panel became a crazy detour for that plan.

 

I'm extremely happy to have it and have something to put it in. I'm a big fan of the Racers Rods (formerly Enos Components) wiring boards. I've had that one in my coupe since 1995, and used one in the MorDor project.

 

All joking aside, this is my favorite thread on the HAMB ! Every project you have done tickles my fun bone.

 

I'll take that as a compliment. Hopefully the running/driving results will not disappoint you.

 

Oh man that would be perfect!

 

I have no expectations. Everything is already cool !

 

If you have not already pulled the trigger on that Dyna Batt... it is a re-badged Hawker G16EP. You might be able to find a bit better deal on the Hawker line, and the date code will not be removed like the Dyna. They used to make those right here in SW MO, but I think they have moved them out of country now.

 

Great tip! The DynaBatt is about $160 from Summit, and I found the Hawker for $112 shipped on Amazon. I like saving money.

 

DO NOT go for a ride in brother in law's truck. You will be spoiled.

Ben

 

Here's a webpage that is dated, but it goes into excruciating detail about the battery and it's twins. I used to have a friend that worked at Hawker, and we could get their batteries at his cost. He followed them out of Springfield when they shut the plant here down.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

If you want to use a traditional battery cable you may need post adaptors as well. something like this...

https://www.portablepower.com/products/enersys-sae-posts/

 

LOL Yeah, I hear they are pretty nice, but I had fun driving my stake truck when it had the flatty in it. I'm actually excited about running it with the 4 speed and 3.0 gear .

 

Ordered today! Thanks for the tip! Including the posts and shipping, I came out at $130.98.

 

Are we talking about the same thing? Fuel "setup"?

Ben

 

Yeah, Doug is gonna have one of those newfangled EFI setups on a SBC. I'm gonna be running a Holley 94 on a stock '40 intake and flathead. Since I'll have a 4 speed with a low gear, and a highway 3.0 gear, I'm gonna have fun the old school way.

 

Wait just a daggum minute... didn't you make fun of me and the miniature battery I bought for my 40?

 

Yeah, it was so cute I had to get one, too!

 

Off topic which did setup did he end up going with?


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He bought the Holley Sniper setup. He is also swapping to a Tanks tank with an internal fuel pump.

 

Dang peer pressure. All of us fight it and succumb some of the time.

 

Be sure to tell us how it goes. I think I'm getting on the bandwagon as well for my 51. It solves a few problems for me to have this battery footprint, but I've never ran one in a street driven car.

 

I had a Braille brand battery in my 40 sedan, and I was really impressed with it. It was easy to find a place for it, you can mount it upside down if you want, and it would crank my 350 no problem. I will be using one in my 38 Chevy in the future because the current full size battery is under the floor and the exhaust has to route around it. It'll save a bunch of space to switch to one of these batteries.

 

Thanks Dan.

We ran these in stock cars and they work great. I'm going to the trunk or under floor on my 51, and this should do the trick!

 

Today, I had a VERY specific agenda. Finish the wiring of the engine, mount the carb, extend the coil to distributor wire, fill the radiator, and connect fuel lines to a gas can so we can fire it up.

One of the tasks was mounting the battery. Since I went with the battery that @Nostrebor suggested, which is about 7 1/2 X 3 X 6 1/2, it required modification to the battery box. Ok...we could have mounted it flat and used up most of the space in the stock battery box, but we chose to do it differently. LOL

I had the stock one, and a reproduction box that came out of the stake truck. I chose to hack up the reproduction one and Mike and I discussed the plan. While I was monkeying around with the throttle linkage, carb install, etc, Mike sectioned the stock battery box and made the battery cables and body ground. I had bought the post adapters, but Mike had already made the cables with terminal ends, so we ran with that.

To temporarily keep the battery in place, it got zip tied to the box. I'll probably make up some kind of metal strap hold down for it later. The photos show the battery box, after being sectioned about 3/4 of it's previous length.



I had called my dad while on the way out to Mike's, and told him if I got it to start I would send him a video. This was actually the second start, after I replaced a faulty starter solenoid. I need to remember to throw that one away when I go back through the "spare parts" bin!



There is a reason I ALWAYS want to do brakes before messing with the engine. LOL Of course I wanna take it for a spin!

I had about a 4" fuel hose coming off the fuel pump, through the "throttle" hole, and down into a 5 gallon gas can. Mike has a big block of wood that's probably 10x18x14 that I was sitting on. What a rush!



I was REAL happy that the truck did not move when I started it in gear with the clutch in. I do, however, need to adjust about 1/2 to 1 turn out on the clutch linkage as it seems to be putting just a very slight bit of pressure on the transmission making it difficult to put into gear from Neutral. I experienced that same issue with the 4 speed in my coupe, so I'm 99% sure that will fix it.

I told Mike that since we had achieved my goal by around 2pm, shortly after we got back from a parts run and lunch break, that I was done for the day. It was EXTREMELY cool to back the panel out of the shop and move it to its "storage area" under its own power.

Next week, we're planning to pull the running boards off so that we can sandblast them and give them a coat of satin black. We'll also clean up around the windshield and put some POR 15 around the lip of it so that we can install the windshield in the near future. I also plan to finally remember to order the transmission tunnel, so we can finish up the floor and get the seams sealed and floor coated with some paint.

 

WINNER!

How's Mike gettin anything done with his hands in his pockets?

Sounds real nice, and there's nothing like that first run through the gears to signal success. Congrats on the milestone!

 

Glad you guys got it running and moving. I almost texted you guys this afternoon to see if you all wanted to take the cars out for a spin.


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Woooo Hooooooo It's alive..

 

nothing like the first drive under its own power