wow john , thought you had it covered . I use kitchen because it is cleanable . good for motors & mc . at one time I had 3 motorcycles in the house . 1 behind xmas tree , one in kitchen & 1 in bedroom . no biggy ………… steve
Steve When we started dating she found engine parts in the dishwasher Pistons and cylinder heads in the ovens for coatings Chassis in the bedroom and dyno parts in the living room She still stayed around and agreed that a shop or two make sense So, I have two and planing number 3 John
some neat stuff and info here . ive posted this here already but hey this is the banger section. B engine duno what the body will be yet have a 31 running chassis its goin in built one already had so much fun it. it has a very stock drivetrain however. time to jaz up the next
I'll try to answer your clutch housing questions, @51 mercules; Differences between A/AA and B/BB rear clutch housing is the bolt pattern; B/BB are smaller (which is why, an A flywheel can't fit in a B/BB clutch housing). Differences between A and AA/BB is the depth, the truck ones are shorter, making for a better fit with most conversions (T5, M40, etc). The B have the box and rear clutch housing cast in one piece, where A, AA and BB is bolted to the box. Differences on front clutch housings (beside affromentioned bolt pattern) are, that A is a cast one piece, where B has a cast upper housing and an extented oil pan at the bottom - and the width for the frame mounts (B being narrower; see threads on a B gear box in model A frames).
I have only 2/3 of 2 car garage , but only one project now so its enough …….. to old to start more … good for you john ……….
WOW! Though my wife is a "keeper", if I brought car stuff into the house she'd have my hide tanned and tacked on an outside wall of HER garage. I have to work in an offsite garage or my trailer! A house that I DESIGNED AND BUILT! Not only that; she has a longer reach than me! (LOL!)
Question for those running 12v electronic ignition, and high compressions heads: What spark plug gap are you running? Also, to those running dual 81s: What’s your jetting, and power valve size? Thanks for reading!
I did a good bit of research online, settled on running mine stock, .035. Old Police head, Model B distributor. Seems to do well.
Love this thread. Sometimes i wanna sell the 52 Vic and take the plunge into Banger Land. Coulda had a deceased friends 30 A coupe for little $$$ coulda, shoulda.........
Good to know. I'm getting ready to go thru mine and was planning on rejetting because it's a little rich Sent from my E6910 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
81's have a 71 power valve and 36 main jets stock as I recall. I just jetted the two 81's on my B, Crager OHV in the Vicky. It wound up with 73 power valves and 37 main jets. I am running around between 5000' and 7000' elevation routinely and I'm a little on the lean side at 7000' MSL. I've found that it is real common for the 81's to have 65 power valves in them because that is what is stock for the 97's It is also not uncommon to see EE1 bases on an 81
Thanks for the responses. I’m running between .035-.040 plug gap. Still seeing how that turns out. I have the stock setup on my 81s, but I feel like the power valve is too large. I had the rod on the “W” setting, and it would bog a tad, so I switched over to the “S”, and it is much more responsive, but I feel I could go smaller on the PV to be perfect. I’m also having an issue where I’ll be driving at a steady pace, and when I come to a stop the idle will stay elevated until I give the throttle a jab, at which point it will idle down. Any ideas?
Tossed a spare block in the car for mock up. Working on finishing the flywheel housing mounts now. All the bolts seen will be rivets btw. Just bolted for mockup.
So, significance of this photo is that I got the improved oil fill tube back on it. I had lost the cap and was having a hard time finding one and I posted it on here a while back....time flies...it was last year. Well @Jet96, Grady, parted with one that he had and gave...yes gave it to me. Thank You jet96 all you guys are great. Stay safe and healthy Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
mmmm, don't know where the photo went.... scheeez, old guys Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Plug gap depends on type of ignition ....electronic allows bigger gap. If you use a bigger than stock gap with points ignition it can cause a miss at high load(wide open throttle) especially if compression is stock or relatively low. The high idle which goes away when you jab the throttle is probably an indication that at least one throttle shaft is worn, and is sticking open slightly. That will also give you a flat spot on high load/ acceleration. High idling is because of air getting past the throttle shaft or throttle plates. It could just be a sticky linkage but most times it is wear. Power valves wear , they can be leaking fuel into the venturi all the time the engine is running , even if the valve itself has no reason to be open. Some other things that affect the way the engine runs , i.e. cause a bog, misfire, flat spot etc are float level, air leaks in the body and the air horn ( warped) , damaged gaskets, worn needle and seat, jets, blocked air correctors, blocked , worn or damaged emulsion tubes , pump plunger, and pump spring . I guess what I am saying is , 90% of "carburation issues" are found in the ignition , (timing) and make sure the stock carb(s) is 100% before you start changing jets and power valves. The changes might cover up issues but that is not a cure. These carbs are running on fuel through the main jets almost as soon as you move the throttle,....right from the idle transition, and the power valve is not only opened mechanically by the pump plunger at full throttle, they are also partially opened / activated by the hydraulic pressure of the fuel in the pump well under acceleration.
Very relaxing afternoon at your cool pad @burnzy37 , pleased my wife said no to a V8 in the B4. Though it sure needs some HP help, which is a plan already happening . Hopefully it will be as lively as your banger.