By the way, I have 64lb, 34lb and 22lb Sterling torsional absorbing flywheels for sale. They are for A/B applications. They are not inexpensive but neither are broken crankshafts or insurance policies. They are set up for the V8 clutch https://vibrationfree.co.uk/the-sterling-rattler-sr-flywheel/ They change the complexion of the engine vibration entirely.
I'm going for a 22lb Sterling for my B build winduptoy. I was about to post up info in case people may be interested. I have no room for the damper originally fitted on the front of the engine. They sound like a quality product to me and I'm in the UK. (otherwise I'd be offering you dollars! )
Nice, the 22lb is a race application for sure. They are finished real well. I believe you will be happy. Let them, Vibration Free (Steve or Alison or Mark) know that you know me, Larry. All the feedback I have has been positive from the folks that have installed them. They do address torsional vibration very nicely. A customer just put a 33lb one on his car with a new crankshaft...AFTER the crank flange broke off his last one.... My buddy just fired up his new build Roadster with a 22lb version and he was happy with the test run on a B motor with a Riley head. The motor has great throttle response. Most street applications are suited to the 33lb version and touring/hill climbing the stock 64lb. Good luck and let us know what you think....I won't have another banger without one. Let me know if you have questions Larry
I have chatted with the guys at Vibration free. After talking to Steve I understand! 22lb in my light roadster will be fine with OHV set up. (I hope! lol)
Question from a banger newbie. . . Will I get more power if I shave a stock Model A head? Motor is all stock but rebuilt. If so, how much should I take off? Thanks in advance, Ron
Problem is that the airflow around the valves get affected so any gain in compression is lost, possible interference of the head with the valves ....then there is the whole angle grinding discussion.....
I centered it up to the least amount of run-out on my brake lathe and started whittling away at it after watching a couple of videos. I don't own a real lathe....which seems odd because you'd think I'd own that vs. a brake lathe. Running both axis to create bevels and what not was interesting. But it got the job done nicely. The flywheel is actually going onto my T engine with a Frontenac head, with an A crank and transmission. Once it is actually running I'll upgrade the clutch as needed, but for now I'll just run a stock A clutch. I'm not all up on A and later stuff like some of you guys are though. This is all high-tech for a T guy like myself.
I’ve always read it’s not worth it. A couple alternatives, just for conversation since I’m up early on a Saturday... Commonly available - Snyders 5.5 or 6:1 cast iron head -one of the repop heads that comes around from time to time Winfield, Thomas usually aluminum (not sure who made them) - Jim Brierley makes an aluminum head I believe. - Lion Speed head aluminum or cast -Dan 4 Bangers site has a model B aluminum head -Tod on the fordbarn (not sure if he posts here) has some for sale every so often I bought one of Tods cast Thomas heads and will be installing in the next couple months. Original era hi comp heads pop up on eBay sometimes Winfields and Weiand seem to go for big money. Simmons are less $ but you don’t see much. Police B head(big letter B cast into the top, not model B just to clarify) Ive always read about Brumfields being great, they’re not available at least since I’ve been messing with these things. I’m guessing they were made in the 90’s?? For the performance increase over stock in combination with a new intake/carb/ignition I couldn’t recommend getting a higher compression head enough.
I had 16 pounds removed from my early A flywheel. Works well in my light little speedster. Before and after:
On top is a stock model a head,4.2 to 1 ratio the combustion chamber design doesn't allow you to shave it and make a noticeable compression increase. The bottom is a Tod Buttermore/Snyder head 5.5 ratio combustion chamber design is a copy of Ford engineering's "Police" B model A head.Its the cheapest new head on the market (if that matters to you) and will give excellent results with an otherwise stock engine. Beware,speed costs money,how fast do you want to go. cheap -fast -reliable...you can only pick two..cheap and fast?no reliable cheap and reliable?no fast..fast and reliable? aint cheap.. you stick that speed needle in your arm and nothing else matters, your kids will be so hungry they'll eat the putty out of the windows..
Your Winfield idle speed sounds perfect....I have the same setup, (Winfield SR-BB carb and manifold) for my Model A that I have not installed yet. Did you happen to record the number of clicks open from closed for the three adjustment screws? That will help me a lot to set up my carb when I install it. Thanks
Not really even subtle Bryan, I know Rustoleum is available , but somehow retailers think it is a premium product with an exorbitant price....and that the shitty cheap Chinese crap is a GOOD product , still with a stupid price. I have bought paint at retail in the US and shipped it with our oil and it is still cheaper than the junk at Supercheap etc.
You kiwis see rustoleum for what it truly is,the 'nectar of the gods' in a convenient sprayable configuration.
I have rattle canned my car with good results . its all in knowing how . 3 different colors in 1 yr .
I am sorry but I don't know the Measurement of the length of the piece I built. I didn't think to get the dimensions when it was apart. That is something I should do so I can share it with everybody. I will try and do that next time I have it apart.
Mine is actually an SR-B. I bought a few of them at the same time and eventually plan on selling the others. All matching and rebuilt. Anyway, took it out for a while yesterday and have determined that I need a fuel pump. Or if someone out there has a G marked float (gravity), I’d love to buy it from them. Anyway, I didn’t write down the settings. If you need the adjustment procedures. SR https://www.nwvs.org/Technical/2104WinfieldSR.pdf S https://www.classicandexotic.com/manuals/winfieldscarburetor.pdf I put some new wheels and tires on yesterday as well Need to get some caps.
They were on the car when I got it. They aren’t high quality, so I assume they’re from one of the common model A suppliers. One good thing about them is the curved mount ensures the glass stays in place.
I had a t-5 splined clutch disc I bought but the input shaft wasn’t long enough to engage the disc. So I had to come up with alternative and had a friend help me make the piece. This way I can also use a stock A disc. I guess you could build one with t-5 splines. This was my best option with running a stock A bell housing. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Hey y'all. First time caller long time listener. Here's my model T engine. It's equipped with a Gemsa OHV head, A crank, pressure fed, 9:1 compression. It's currently torn down and undergoing some changes I'll list soon.
The engine, built by Joe Gemsa, had an unblanaced shortened A crankshaft installed. The babbitt was hammered so I am having that re-poured. While apart, I am going to install a counter weighted full length A crankshaft due to other peoples experiences with shortened cranks breaking. At teardown, I found the T transmission beat badly. Multiple cracked drums and torn up bands. I made the decision to hunt down a Frontenac oil pan and model A transmission adapter. I hope to buy a crank, clutch, and send the block out for babbitt next month and get this car to drive this year. It has been a 2 year project thus far.
I was about to ask what will you be doing to hold all that compression from hurting things down stream. Nice car!!!!!!!!! . .
Thanks guys. This gem just arrived in the mail yesterday so soon I can finalize my driveline like shaft length and radius rod mounting points since I can see where the transmission tail will land.
Shane, nice to see you make it to the HAMB. Super stoked you found that pan, you were lucky...as we discussed already. Keep in touch -Chad Sent from my thinks it's smarter than me smart phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app