Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Do you have to run in the cam? We used to smoke those hoses when checking operation of gas engine garbage trucks back in the day. The speed-up rpm put more heat thru the hoses than they liked.

 

I’m pretty sure its already been run in but that’s a great thought. Don’t think I’d have considered that

 

No cam run in, Tim did that already down in California.

The running I have to do will be setting the timing and balancing and fine tuning the carbs.

After that I’ll connect the linkage and finish up the gas pedal modifications.

 

Cam bed in is something a lot forget about. JW

 

Well I managed to get the hoses set up to vent my exhaust.
My garage also now has a CO detector.

I’ll open the window to bring in a little fresh air and then its run and tune time

Note the safe use of a cinder block

 

Was wondering where you’d been. Looks nice

 

Well, here you go I’m a happy camper.

Mission accomplished carbs tuned and balanced and the timing is set.

The @mctim64 Y block runs really nice and sounds strong.

No leaks great cooling and the transmission is working perfectly after 9 litres of fluid.

When I get to drive it I’ll have to add a little more to top it up.

Next comes re installing the carb linkage and getting the throttle pedal sorted out with idle and WOT stops.

 

Blue
System leaks are the biggest pain especially when one has dotted all the i's and crossed all the t's (so to speak), sounds like your due diligence has payed off.
I predict a very happy face when you hit the street for the first time.

 

Thanks
Yup, it’s great, no leaks anywhere now. The few small ones were relatively easy to fix.

Really looking forward to the first drive.

 

Man, You set the bar very high! Beautiful, runs good, no leaks you cut us no slack.
The more I see of that blue the more I like it especially on this car. I would like to find an equivalent green for my roadster.

 

Happy noises.

 

Congratulations! Sounds great! Spring and a first dive aren't too far away.

 

Actually, the cinder block should be rotated so the internal ribs are vertical.

DON'T GET UNDER THAT HOSE WITH THE BLOCK IN THAT ORIENTATION!

 

The Ford V8 emblem on the light cross bar really looks good.

 

Thanks, it’s a Y block V8 fender emblem, I thought it would be nice there.

 

My fuel sending unit just wasn’t giving a correct reading, probably my fault but I got tired of trying to get the float arm adjusted right.

I ordered a tube type sending unit from Classic Instruments and installed it today.

I also made a little rubber cover for it.
Works perfectly.

 

Do those work with other gauges?

 

I think they may, If you want to know for sure just call Classic and get the tech guy. He'll be able to tell you if they offer one that will work with the ohm range of your gauge ( low to high ).

It might help if you know the ohm range of the gauge first.

 

Nice work on that cap, Blue one!

Quick search found this
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?ptype=results&category_id=159&mode=cat

The resistance of your fuel sender should match that of your gauge. For instance the resistance of the stock gauge in a 55 Chevy has a value of zero ohms when empty and 30 ohms when full. The following list is for stock gauges and some popular aftermarket brands:

• Ford up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms
• Ford 1987 & up - 16-158 Ohms
• GM up to 1964 - 0-30 Ohms
• GM 1965-1997 - 0-90 Ohms
• GM 1998 & up - 40-250 Ohms
• Mopar up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms
• AMC 1950-1977 - 73-10 Ohms
• Autometer -240-33 Ohms is the most common however other ohm ranges are made
• Classic Instruments - 240-33 Ohms (excluding vehicle specific gauge kits which use factory ohm range)
• Dolphin - 0-90 Ohms
• Dakota Digital - Programmable to work with most Ohm range senders
• VDO - 10-180 Ohms

The first number represents the empty Ohm reading and the second number is the full reading.

 

Curious how that sensor works. Not a big fan of the floats like your replaced as well

 

Apparently it’s a pressure transducer.



Really easy and very accurate.

 

Good information on the gauge ohms.

That cap took a little head scratching and then a trip to the hardware store and then some time at the belt sander.

One of these 1 1/2” rubber feet turned into this cap.

 

Some information on the Classic Instruments website too.

https://shop.classicinstruments.com/fuel-sending-units

 

Thank you. That should work with my SW gauge from a Studebaker.

 

Spent a little time today cutting out a few sealing gasket rings for the base of my air cleaners.

Then I ran it and warmed it up to be sure it ran as good with them as without them when I balanced and tuned the carbs.

Working good and sounds great.

 

That's a great looking engine. And sounding! Lippy

 

Any reason why you left the chokes in the two end carbs?

 

I was advised that they would be easier to balance and maintain equal flow during operation.
That’s right from Clive at Stromberg.
I just used a washer to allow them to be snugged tight in the open position.

Only the center choke is operational.

 

Thanks good to know.

 

Today the gas pedal and carb linkage finally all came together.

I fabbed a little stop (with a rubber pad) for full throttle on the so cal stainless spoon pedal so that at full throttle it won’t over-stress and bend the mechanical linkages on the carbs or the 3/16”
Stainless steel throttle rod that operates it all.

I also learned that for reliable and smooth operation all 3 of the Strombergs need throttle shaft return springs and then the whole linkage also needs a good double return spring.

I had the throttle tie wired wide open for the adjustment of the stop and then tested it all.

Smooth and no sticking spots from idle to wot and back