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Hot Rods The $75 283

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Thepartsbinguy1, Jan 14, 2020.

  1. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    from Space

    it must be something to do with the oil pump. And at this point the bearings are the only thing I haven't seen. But the rest of the internals looked so clean and it spins very freely no binding or sticky spots. I haven't run it long at all but it did sound snappy.
     
  2. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I have used a "speed wrench", with a flat blade screwdriver attachment TAPED to the speed wrench. Although this won't fully prime the engine, as there's no oil circuit "collar" to direct oil flow, it will give you an idea how "good' the oil pump is. If there's a fair amount of resistance, the pump should be fine; if your 3 year old nephew can spin it fast and furious, then you need to look further. Don't tear into anything you don't absolutely have to; it's usually a waste of time, effort, and money. No use turning that $75.00 283 into a $500.00 283, if you don't absolutely have too. Beg, borrow, or "appropriate" an engine stand; it'll make ALL your work easier, especially if you have to flip the engine over. Now I would't run an engine on a stand for any more than a second or two, at least at more than an idle; NO revs! You could temporarily beef up an engine stand in order to run an engine. Good luck.
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  3. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    I've scrounged around and found another oil pump. Gonna go out and try to prime it again. Also found a ratty looking fuel sediment bowl that I'll screw right to the carburetor. And a square oil pressure gauge.
     
  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    I may have missed it, but you are rotating the engine now and then while priming?
     
    B.SUTTON likes this.
  5. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    no wonder there was no oil pressure! The notch in the rod sticking out of the oil pump was sheered off on both sides! WIN_20200206_13_17_02_Pro.jpg
     
    Budget36 likes this.
  6. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    O ya 40 pounds of oil pressure when priming! A couple of the lifters filled up. Gonna start it and hope the rest fill up
     
  7. MARKDTN
    Joined: Feb 16, 2016
    Posts: 147

    MARKDTN

    '68 327 has q-jet and a manifold oil fill. Got a motor from a '68 Impala like that.
     
  8. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    WOW!!! You'll remember a few posts back, I said there was a "reason why this engine was taken out of service". Well, I think you just found that reason. I hope you pulled the main and rod bearings to have a look at them before you put the oil pan back on? I have my fingers crossed for you, but I'm still not real hopeful this is the end of your problems with this 283. I am ]Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  9. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    ahh you are right! New oil pump 40 pounds at idle a pinch over 65 pounds when I whacked the throttle once. But after running for a bit only oil is weeping from one rocker? Did not check those bearings also.
     
  10. Yea I think I mentioned sumthin about the drive between the oil pump and dist. If you have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1000 RPM that is enough. Ive ran the heck out a lot of engines that the oil warning light stayed on at idle after the engine warmed up. real high oil pressure doesn't equal long engine life. My 1940 cat D4 diesel is never supposed to have more than 40 PSI oil Pressure. Run the engine for a time with a radiator hooked up. let it get good and warm. and then change the oil & filter.
     
  11. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,230

    Mimilan
    Member

    55-57 Chevys use a different oil pump to the rest of the breed.
    They have a shorter but deeper sump in the oilpan to clear the steering.
    So the pump / drive / pickup is different [see photo]

    If you swap to a different pump /pickup also grab the drive AND the oilpan as well
    Oilpump.jpg
     
  12. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,144

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Then there was the Chevy II!
     
  13. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    from Space

    this is one of two pieces of what I thought was sheered off from the oil pump. But after taking a day off and thinking things over I went back outside and grabbed the two pieces and wiped all the oil off to find this piece of cast is not from the pump at all. I'm gonna try all the tricks I was given to get it priming and if it does prime up I'm gonna run it.. If it tosses a rod I don't care. Can't win'em all WIN_20200207_11_32_37_Pro.jpg
     
  14. My father was pulling a loaded fertilizer buggy. 4 miles from his farm the oil light came on. He didn't stop and drove on home. the 360 ford was rattling and getting hot by the time he got home. While he was spreading the fertilizer . Our middle son Chris pulled the oil pan. A little wire clip like those found on carb linkage. Had passed thru the screen on the pickup tube and locked up the pump and the hex shaft was twisted in two. Chris cleaned up the pan . Replaced the drive and put it back together. never looked at the bearings. After that the oil light flickered at idle. However the old 360 FE never quit running. My father ran it for several years afterward .
     
  15. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    That piece of curved cast iron looks like it "might" be a support for where the oil pump drive rod passes through the block; a support of sorts. The reason I say that, is because of something that happened to my younger sister's 326 Powered 68 (?) Firebird. She was driving along, then a sudden "thud", and the car died. She lifted the hood to find the distributor sticking out of the engine, and the thud was when it hit the hood. In tearing the engine down, I found a broken piece of cast iron very similar to yours. I'm going to have to go check one of my SBC blocks to see if that could be your problem. Wound up buying a Catalina with a 2 barrel 428 (?) in it. Waaaaay too much engine for her, and she sold the car shortly afterwards. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2020
    Budget36 likes this.
  16. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    OK, check the rear main cap, where the oil pump drive shaft passes through it. There is NO place in the block, like on a Pontiac V-8, where it would pass through. And please don't say, "you have ALREADY put the pan back on".
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  17. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 30,781

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    remember this picture? I wonder if some of that sludge is plugging the pushrods??
     
  18. Neb Hillbilly
    Joined: Dec 20, 2019
    Posts: 339

    Neb Hillbilly
    Member

    with as dirty as the valley was, I bet the lifters are plugged.
     
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  19. Neb Hillbilly
    Joined: Dec 20, 2019
    Posts: 339

    Neb Hillbilly
    Member

    I would add a radiator and get it hot to get that old sludge moving

    Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  20. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    I ran compressed air through the pushrods and carefully through the lifters and got everything put back together. Gonna try to prime it again. It sucks cause it's snowing but I'm gonna head out in a bit anyway
     
  21. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
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    Thepartsbinguy1
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    all that I can think of is the lifters not spinning in there bore.. I'm pulling the intake one last time to line the lifters up with the side gallery..
     
  22. Neb Hillbilly
    Joined: Dec 20, 2019
    Posts: 339

    Neb Hillbilly
    Member

    you don't have to line up the lifters. Hard to clean a lifter with air

    Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  23. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    I got four to pump up after priming and priming.. Tomorrow is basically judgment day for this little 283 just gonna start it and let it run. If something goes wrong I could use the crank anyway.
     
  24. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
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    Thepartsbinguy1
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    Well I really don't know.. It ran for 15mins and never pushed oil through the pushrods? At this point I have it lifted up and all but two bolts out of the oilpan and it's drained. Intake and everything is off and the lifters are all marked and out. Gonna try to run a piece of wire through any passages to see if anything is clogged. The pushrods are not clogged and the lifters are not clogged either.
     
  25. There are some small core plugs at the back of the block pull them and run a shotgun cleaning wire brush thru them. However the passage between the main bearings and cam journals might be plugged? Myself I would completely take it apart down to the bare block. and really clean all the oil galleys and passages. Spend about a$100 on a ring overhaul kit. You bearings have already suffered some damage from the oil pump not working. And it was likely not working before you started tinkering with it.
     
  26. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    When you have the pan off again, check the rear main cap for that broken off piece of cast iron; probably broke off when the oil pump drive shaft "wobbled" after the pump shaft broke. I think you're looking at a major overhaul, including having the crank turned, rods reconditioned, new bearings and rings, pistons, valve job, etc, etc, etc; probably just easier to scrap it and find another "runner". I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  27. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    Well I have been over every inch with a bright flashlight and can find no place on the block this piece of cast could have came from??? O well it's all reassembled. And were gonna let it run more. The chunks of solid oil in the pan tell me the passages are most likely clogged. Gonna run the bag off it and have some fun. Maybe it'll last maybe it won't. I'm done tearing into it though.
     
  28. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    Went out and ran it let it clear itself out with some new oil and after awhile some of the pushrods started bleeding oil into the rockers while running. I have no radiator on it. But have a few laying around. Also gonna pull the rockers one more time and run a Needle through the passage they look crusty and I never really noticed. With a radiator and a big fan it can run four a half hour or so but everything is looking good.
     
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  29. Thepartsbinguy1
    Joined: Oct 14, 2019
    Posts: 285

    Thepartsbinguy1
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    from Space

    The Rochester started giving me a massive fit out of nowhere? No matter what I twisted it wouldn't straighten out.. Dropped an old edelbrock on there and my god what a difference in power! Just went from tame to absolutely wild! All the rockers pumped up and are shooting oil almost over the whole exhaust manifold? Oil pressure is rock solid. What a wild sounding 283 revvs out so much quicker than any thing I have ever thrown together!
     
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  30. Good deal. Im glad you dint give up on the 283! For me a 283 is a lot of fun. It was common in the 60,s to install a carter AFB from a 327 on a 283. I know many will disagree however I believe you can install a supposively too big a carb on a 283 and it will still handle it great. The engine in the 55 in my avatar is a 283 from a 65 chevy. Stock engine with a 100,000 miles. All I done was install a new timing chain. Recurve the dist. add hedders & adapt a 625 CFM carter carb to the stock 4GC intake. Lots of fun and it doesn't have any bog or other carb problems. 55-283 003.JPG
     
    Thepartsbinguy1 likes this.

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