Hot Rods The $75 283

The vacuum advance hooks to a vacuum port on the carb. one the has suction when the engine is running at idle.

 

Maybe you could update your profile page to reflect where you are located? Someone local to you may decide to get directly involved, and help you out in person. It can be difficult enough trying to run down an issue with an engine, even more-so when it's been posted on an internet site. Hands-on is always better than a guess (either WAG or SWAG). We ALL want to help you out!!! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I can't get the original flywheel to this engine it's gone. I have another automatic flywheel and starter and it bangs and skips and grinds. Not enough cranking power even with two batteries. For awhile at least I think I'm done messing with it. I'll just have to look around for a bellhousing and flywheel.

 

Its much easier to get a engine to start with a stick flywheel or a flywheel and torque converter. If your trying to use a automatic flexplare with a stick bell and starter that bolts to the bell that's isn't compatable. most automatic the starter bolts to the block.

 

the starter is bolted right to the block and it's an automatic flex plate with no converter bolted to it. With a brand new battery it cranked three times then it binds and causes the starter to slow to a stop? The starter and flywheel are matched. I pulled them off a 350. Thinking the starter is dying.

 

get a new starter

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Ok well there is an idea maybe?? I can't believe I didn't think of it but tomorrow I'll get the small manual flywheel and bolt it to the engine bolt the bellhousing on and see if the starter I got with this engine will engage it? Must be a 153 tooth. Not sure if the small flywheel will stick out far enough to catch the starter gear while the starter is bolted to the bellhousing or not. If the starter does engage the small flywheel I have a new in box starter. A lot of hobbling around in a muddy snow covered mess and the starter was never up to the task in the first place.

 

If you have a starter motor that bolts to the bell-housing, then a 153 tooth flywheel or flex will be too small to engage with the starter; those take a 168 tooth flywheel/flex-plate. Sorry. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I was afraid someone would say that. Did the 153 tooth flywheel have a special starter? Or how did they make that work? I have a bunch of flywheels. If i can find a starter for a 153 tooth

 

ok can a 168 tooth flexplate be used with a bellhousing starter? Old wolf said it might not be compatible but now I'm gonna go out and see anyway.

 

The best thing you can do is fill out your profile so a local HAMBER could supply the right parts and maybe give you a hand! Two sets of eyes are better than one. Good Luck, Gary

 

Well the bellhousing bolts to the engine with the auto flexplate on it and the starter does bolt right up to the bellhousing. I havn't hit the starter to see if it spins the engine over but it does seem to align correctly

 

perfect! There is no transmission or clutch but the auto flexplate with the bellhousing starter turns the engine over great! The battery's been charging all night and yes we have fresh fuel.

 

It fired right off ran for 30 seconds and shut back off. Didn't hear anything banging or rattling.. It cut off cause it drained the bowls. Gonna go snag an oil pressure gauge off something in the field and start it back up. Didn't touch the throttle but it did sound good idling.

 

Finally; ..... success!!! Too many before you have just given up; there have been several "new guys" come to the board with questions, received lots of advice, and then just disappeared. I am Butch/56sedandelivery..

 

Everyone I'm terrified I ran into some things to do but I'm back at it and just hit the starter with a full fuel tank connected it fired off instantly. Set there idling like a sowing machine. Other guy looks at me and says shouldn't there be oil on those rockers? It's bone dry! I never did get that oil pressure gauge? If there was no oil at the rockers there would be no pressure? I wacked the throttle twice and it just sounds happy but even after coming back down to an idle no oil from the pushrods? I shut it down immediately until I can figure this out.

 

Make a priming tool from an old distributor, and get after it with a drill motor

 

did you pull the pan to be sure the pan/pick up aren't plugged?

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yupp i found a good youtube video and spent the last 20 mins making one out of a distributor so I'll try and prime it tomorrow.

 

pictured is a tractor oil pan and pickup screen. its not uncommon for there to be gunk in a oil pan. also there is a drive rod between the oil pump and the dist. it needs to be turning the pump.

 

the pump was clean when we pulled the pan. Just sludge in the bottom not very bad though. The screen on the pickup was clean and not packed with sludge. But I never took the pump off or really thought about it being clogged. I'll try to prime it tomorrow. The chain is still on it so I'll just lift it back up and pull the pan again if it doesn't prime.

 

Should note the distributor was setup with #1 plug pointing at #2 cylinder that's just how the dist fell in and I wired it. Now it is pretty advanced idled great could even run better with a bit of tuning but is there an oil passage on this distributor that would stop flow to the top end if the dist isn't "clocked" right? Also probably not the reason but I lifted all the lifters out of there bores one by one cleaned them and dropped them back in.. To the same bore of course. That wouldn't cause oil to not make it to the top end though?

 

the dist is fine, the lifters are too. Prime it. if the filter was empty and the pump had to push out all the air it may take a bit. Hardly anything can get wrecked idling a short time. Prime the oil.

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still haven't got around to priming it but I was diggin through the barn and as I was walking out something caught my eye.. It was the original four blade fan off my other 283 score! Going back out now to see about priming it.

 

Well I went out and primed it. The drill was not up to the task.. But after priming and turning the engine over a bit each time two or three pushrods on each side started bleeding oil into the rockers. The oil can was loose! Swear I tightened that. Of course it dripped oil right on to the end of the pipe off the manifold so it'll smoke like a house fire. Think it's safe to say start it and see if the rest prime up.

 

Yep, I have let the smoke out of more that a few drills priming and engine. If you see a little up top it should be close enough.

 

The lifters did not pump up and not a single bit of oil pressure? The rockers did not start seeping oil when running the rockers that did fill up when priming did not pump up when running? I'm gonna buy a new pump. The drill wasn't up to the task but still there was not alot of resistance when priming.

 

Also it sounds really healthy! Just absolutely jumps to life.

 

I should have mentioned use a 1/2in drill motor. But we all recall our first 3/8th one we burned up

 

Oil will flow to where there is the least resistance. any badly worn bearings excessive clearances ect will give internal oil leakage. the oil pump has a bypass relief valve those are sometimes known to stick in the open position. the passages in the block that feed the lifter galleys could be clogged?