Hot Rods Coker tire question

Just got off the phone with Coker for a quote for bias ply look radials, the sales person told me I needed innertubes for the 750-16 tires because of the size. Anybody running this size of tire with tubes? Seems odd to me.

 

Ok just talked to Diamondback about their bias look radials, same size no innertubes needed. Guess I know which way I'm going.

 

Sounds kinda odd to me; I though the need for tube, or not, was a function of the tire design / type / manufacture, and not a matter of size, or choice. Very happy to be put on the right road on this thinking though.

Chris

 

That's what I was thinking.

 

Covering their ass. I have a couple friends running 750/16 Coker Excelsior radials with no tubes. Both cars are long distance drivers.

 

Even with my alliance discount and free shipping I can get Diamondbacks cheaper.

 

I'm running 600/16 without tubes...

 

Just a related question, I thought/was told that you could not run tubes in radial tires because of the way they are built as opposed to bias belt. I believe it was a heat build up issue resulting in tube failure.

Pat

 

750-16 in the back and 550-16 in the front from Coker with radial tubes. They ride just as good
as the 265-15 that I started with when the car was built back in 2004. Tires did cost a bit more
and were a little harder to balance, but they look way way better. No 22's with band aid tires ever.

 

You can run tubes in radials, they have to be radial tubes. I wonder if Coker wants you to run tube because the wheels are tube type? ( lawyers?)

 

I like the Coker Bias ply, I drove cars with bias ply long before we know what radials were. HRP

 

Thanks Bill. And HRP at our age I think we all did.

Pat

 

Most if not all 16" bias and radials from Coker require a tube, not just the 7:50s. Running with or without tubes is up to you, but one big advantage of Diamond Backs is they are all tubeless radials.

 

I still run bias ply’s on both 32’s . They are fine for me.


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My brother in law told me the same thing. He's been a tire dealer for 20 years.

 

That's why I'm going with Diamondback.

 

"Tires did cost a bit more and were a little harder to balance."
You got Cokers to balance???

 

I did too,but with the availability and safety of radials that's the way I'm going. I've had a few scares with bias plys.

 

Running is a key word....early wheels lacked the inside bead the later tubeless rims have....just saying.....I've run all kinds of wheels - artillery etc....just have to keep them moving.....they don't like sitting. My 8N Ford tractor runs a 16" donut tire on it's original rim - with out a tube.

 

This may be a hedge, not about the tires, but about the wheels that you are running them on.

Old-school wheels that were riveted together (or wire wheels), and that were intended to be run with tires and tubes, might not be capable of holding air, as they might leak around the rivets (or spoke nipples).

Why that size, I do not know. If there is a large difference between the section width and sidewall height, and the wheel width, they might be concerned with deflection/leverage unseating the tire.

 

The wheels are new from summit. I've got 49 Chevy wheels on my 31 Chevy pu with no tubes never had a problem.

 

Are we talking the blackwall or whitewall here? My friend here put a set of bias look www tires on his 46. Be careful and check inside and look for a small silver sticker they place in there. He was advised to use tubes and that little sticker rubs against the tube and he had a spectacular blowout on the way home from a run. Luckily it was a rear wheel. It could have been a disaster if it was a front one.
In any event he didn't need to run tubes anyway and now they are tubeless. Remove that sticker too.

 

my tire experts tell me the need for tubes is a function of your rim. if you have modern rims that can seat and seal a radial tire, then you don't need a tube. if you're using old rims that were made for tubes and you put a bias ply looking radial tire on it, then you need tubes. and yes, radial tubes are needed for radial tires, not discounting Coker's urge to sell tubes.

 

Diamondback ride as good as they look....

 

You like bias tires,fine. We all did lots of stuff "before" something better came along. Drum brakes then discs, AM radio before FM, plain glass before safety glass-the list goes on a long way. What did you do before sildenafil?

 

Bias plys with tubes 7.50/16 4.50/16 rides like a dream.



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I made my change to radials complete a couple years ago and I have no regrets, The bias ply tires drove like shit compared to the radials now in use.on my roadster. The coupe has had radials since I bought it.
My only question is about the "new inside bead" that's supposed to help seal the beads in tubeless use. Any body got a link to an illustration of this "inside bead"??????

 

I’ve run tubes in radials because the 60 year old rims leaked. (14 years).
Ran them on the front of a ‘32 fordor and cross ply (bias) on rear, (with tubes). Handling was massive improvement over cross plys all round.
I run tubes in all the cross ply tyres for the same reason- old leaking rims.
Possibly my cars don’t go fast enough for heat build up to be an issue.
Modern cars and low profile tyres may be completely different.

 

Not entirely true. The inner tire construction determines the need for a tube, not the wheel. Exceptions would be some wire designs, along with possibly very old or rusty wheels that can't contain air.

 

I've read the safety bead was introduced by Dodge in 1940, many years before tubeless and radial tires, and became industry standard years later.
The purpose of the bead is to help keep the tire on the wheel during a complete loss of air, with or without a tube.