Technical ***January 2020 Banger Thread. Happy New Year!***

Radiator hose to protect the gear is traditional. Every lobe was ground on a grind stone, photos don't show that. Think they made a test profile and finished with a file in the old days. Bob

 

Could be
Not all spoken for
J

 

Bob

yes I have copper plate done before rough grind
This makes carburizing of wear surfaces and the rest soft

John

 

My Model A flywheel currently has the V8 clutch, and at first glance it may need bit of attention.
I have heard of a GM clutch being used with our Model A's.

If this is a not uncommon modification, is there any advantage to that clutch over the V8 clutch?

What clutch is used?

Will my Model A flywheel that is modified for the V8 clutch need any additional machining other than properly located mounting holes?

Does the Model A throw out bearing system still work with this mod?

Is there a clutch disc that fits this clutch and the Ford input shaft or does the input shaft need to be replaced?

Thanks in advance for any experienced input and any other things I may have not questioned.

Peace, Phred

 

'29 Roadster w/Model B & Miller Schofield OHV - first startup since 1985.

 

Does anybody have any early Mallory instructions?

 

do not know about gm clutch .
is your flywheel already using v8 clutch ?
yes on throw out brg
I believe the ford clutch will work with stock trans
hope this helps …………. steve

 

I need recommendations on a seal set up for the front and rear of the oil pan for a Model B. This does not have any enhanced oiling. just looking for a better set up than the rope and cork set up.

 

Fun time,running fuel lines,buffing headlights,fabbing stands.Gonna run 8000 lumen LED's,fella give me a pair of reflectors for H4 halogen..be a menace to safe motoring,blinding all those who approach me

 

I bought a "C" head at the Turlock Swap Meet on Saturday. How much can I safely shave it?

 

I was always told that for what you increased the compression by it's not worth the effort! ...to plane a Model A head. I was always told 0.080 is as far as you can go without wrecking it...and that is from stock....AND if you do take 80 thou off and also clean the block you can get about 125 between the two of them, BUT you have to be careful you don't have pistons above the block surface. If so you will need a thick gasket which will just undo all your hard work!.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABcylinderheadcomparison.htm

 

It looks great.
As far as the headlight mods, this is from: http://www.audettecollection.com/

 

I’m adjusting my crank babbitts. Should I use new ARP nuts or reuse the original nuts? I’m replacing the rod nuts with ARP. The cotter pins were not installed on the main cap nuts when I took it apart.

 

Happy New year Bob!!!!


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Not much Mr. Ford didn’t leave us much meat


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Uhh.....you can adjust the buckets.

 

The combustion chamber design is what screws you for raising compression.Shaving is a minimal increase

 

In my opinion the land the nut rides on is as important as the nut itself,I used hard washers and quality grade 8 nuts,instead of cranking the nut against the grey iron.

Using cotter pins to hold torque is a waste,tension can degrade against the pin. A torque value is designed to place the fastener in tension,basically the assembly 'stretches' the bolt,locking the threads.I use blue locktite, anaerobic sealants like loctite provide a means of retaining the assembly without potential loss of tension as with a cotter pin.

 

I can't disagree with the above statements, all true.
One factor though is no one looks at the bolts themselves.
I have seen some yielded past tension and would not hold any torque.
My 0.02$, not to be an advertisement, but I have never had any of Dan McEachern's main bolts fail or yield.
Not to mention they are sized properly, diameter.
Personally, I like to use the ARP 12pt nuts wherever I can, expensive, yes, but very seldom have to replace.
One trick from a well known builder here, on stock rods, the castle nuts have very little full thread length.
This is a place where ARP 12pt nuts are your friend.

John

 

"Mock it Up" before you do anything! That way you'll be able to know and decide what you want to do! "Been there, done that"!

 

Even though I sold my banger coupe, still love to come here and dream, Another banger but hotrod banger tudor sedan is in the future I think....

 

Okay, thanks guys. I have a B engine in a 31 closed cab pickup wearing a cracked A head. Just planned on replacing the busted one with this one and thought it would be good to take off about .125 if I could. I guess we'll just cut it enough to clean it and slap it on there.

 

Here's a link to a thread on fordbarn that might at least give some information and it seems to be quite a well informed post. Scroll down to post #11 by Purdy Swoft. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48414&showall=1 I believe it's all based on a stock Model A head, but it might give some guidance on your "C" head, and I'd think it would be of interest to the stock Model A head crowd that might want a bit more compression "on the cheap".

Lynn

 

Youll catch 4.8 to 1 or so,they start at 4.6..but hell yeah,run that sucker till one falls in your lap

 

Do you have a part number for those ARP main bolt nuts?

 

Pick your poison, https://arp-bolts.com/kits/bulk.php?PL=100&M=*&W=*&D=5&P=*&WS=*&B=1

 

12 point flanged 11/16 socket chrome moly?

 

That would be my choice, the SS ones are too expensive.
Also, check pricing at Jegs and Summit racing, also Red's headers, Victor I think has them.
http://www.reds-headers.com/html/contact_us.html