Hot Rods THREE SPRINGER , 3 SPRINGER picture thread

it's just under 103" I think it works proportionally, might need a but of fine tuning.. we didnt have time to shorten the frame in the 3 days we built it.

 

Bump for the gowjob crowd.

 

This thread makes me want to trade my model A frame in for a 20s Chevy frame or like. Already have a spare T rear cross member...

 

What is this axle ? Has it got aluminium brake plates ? Thanks.

 

rgdavid, looks like a Mopar wavy axle from the 30s

 

Yes, It is a mid to late '30s Dodge or Plymouth tube axle. Sorry that is not a better picture. You can not see the nice curves in it. No. there is no aluminum on it, just the light and the institutional light green paint.

 

Building a 3 springer and have a question about how you all handle the front spring mount. I see everyone has a spreader bar but at you using the stock type bolts cantilevered? Drilling your spreader for greasing the spring? Thin bronze bushing and turning the end of the spreader bar down?

 

Here is a close up I took of the Art Gerrick car.

 

I haven't done it yet, but I plan on using the spreader bar ends out through the frame and holding the spring too. Might turn it down for brass bushings like you suggested. I've been collecting old nuts and bolts so it could have a big ol grease fitting on it too.

 

I wonder about using a threaded sleeve to screw the grease zerk end of the original shackle bolt into so you have the grease zerk and the spreader bar? How would one do that? The zerk end is knurled. The spreader bar would have to be welded in place, or a larger diameter and a bolt flange like a 32. Hmmm...

 

i bought a length of grade 8, 9/16" redi rod and sleeved it with a piece of dom tube.

 

In my head I picture a chromed spreader bar, so it would not be welded in. I'd probably have to do all the frame fab and leave one rail disassembleable so the spreader could be pulled out and chromed, then inserted and final weld the rail to the other cross members.

I would like the zerk to be on the outside, with probably a small hole leading through the center as deep as half the spring width. Then another grease feeder hole from the center to the outer surface of the bar, right inside the bronze bushing. If I kept the holes to 1/16" or so do you think it would weaken the bar (which my whole front of the spring is riding on in single shear) too much? I don't really see my car getting much track time, but I'd like it to be road safe.

 

I'm using the stock mounts and modifying a '49 pickup axle to mount on top of the spring. If that is not low enough I'll have the axle dropped. I don't need "in the weeds" low I live on 2 miles of rocky road.

 

9/16" fine thread . In fact I still have y eyes peeled for old school castlated nuts. I left no provision for grease.

 

I am thinking 9/16 solid rod, partially gun drilled with a grease zerk and nut/washer for retainer. Photos I got today from the Speedway museum of the Gerrick car show no provision for grease or any bushing.

 

Can you describe or illustrate how you plan to do that?

 

Pretty much like this picture that I lifted here somewhere but I will move the mount to the bottom of the axle and mill the original mount pad off of the top. My mount will be a pad welded into a slot on the bottom of the axle beam. My frame will be stock shape and stock mounts. At least that is the plan now. We'll see how that holds in the next couple of weeks. I'm waiting for a break in the weather so I can blast the frame.

 

Bump. I love this thread.

Heres my project, not much yet. hoping to get going on it more soon.

9

 

That is a good start. I'm deeply into taking rusty old springs and axles apart right now. A tip: a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone or paint thinner is the best penetrating oil you will find and it is cheap.
I'd like to see more pictures of your project.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hillbilly-model-t-speedster-attempt-2.1176288/

 

Got my 15yo daughters '27 T in the shed and working away on it over the winter. Pics were taken a few weeks ago, just about have the body buttoned up. I should start a build thread, or just keep posting in here. Fun time building rods with my kids...

-Shiny

 

Does anyone have pics showing rear shackles on springer chassis? My springs are outboarded, with little real estate in the area where the mount should be.

 

Thank you Sir! Very greatly appreciated!

 

I spun mine 180* and used some plate to build them out to parallel . I plan a small gusset.

 

Thanks @alchemy those pics did the trick.

Now i can stand on the frame and bounce my fat ass up and down!

 

Your bottle jack reminded me....did you ever check the rails for straightness on the top edge? They notoriously sag, usually behind the mount ears of the pan. I used the tried and true method of chains wrapped around the ends of a piece of 2.5" thick wall square tubing and a 20 ton jack between the tubing and bottom of the frame to coax them back into shape. I did this before I started any chassis work......you might not be too late to check hopefully.

Once that was set, I then squared the frame....because again, they are notoriously not square.

 

I can guarantee everything from the trans mount forward is in check. I haven't examined the mount rearward yet, but now i gotta check that tomorrow. I'm not overly worried about squareness now, I'll be cutting the frame apart for the eventual Z anyways.

I was concerned about the strength of the T rails as anyone could flex them by hand. That sideways torque coming from the shackle mounts had me worried. I was planning some added brackets to mount the bottom of the frame to the trans crossmember, then i realized that Henry Ford allready made provisions for it. There is a 3/8" hole on the center of the frame rail that lines up with a hole in the tranny mount. Just add bolt, and instant strength. Apparently one of the previous owners never reinstalled them when they swapped out the engine.

The sagging to you mentioned was allready a concern of mine as well. Im allready planning a bridge type thing to mount below the frame rails...

 

Looks great. Like factory.

 

Your on the right track, except what also goes in between the frame and pan ear is a wood block, before the nut and bolt are tightened down to keep from bending the pan ear and distorting the frame rail.....well, in a "stock" application anyhow. I'm sure you could do the same with a steel or aluminum block I suppose. But the bolt and nut were never meant to be drawn up super tight.