Customs Wagon hunt may be OVER!!! 1952 DeSoto wagon is HOME!

@FlynBrian ......‘re Cherokee rear axles....I have a lot of experience with the Jeep stuff from some years ago. The (“square”) Cherokee from ‘91 thru 2001 end of production used the MOPAR 8.25” rear axle, regardless of 2 or 4 wd. Limited slips were relatively scarce in my experience. 6 cyl automatics 2 or 4 wd are 3.55 ratio. 6 cyl 5 spd manual are 3.07, the less common 4 cyl are 4.10. The ‘97 thru ‘05 TJ Wrangler also used the 8.25 axle, is essentially the same as Cherokee, but has a lot of suspension brackets to cut off. The Cherokee should be fairly plentiful, they made a lot of them.

Jeep Liberty and Dodge Nitro also use the 8.25” axle, ratios vary by model/power train, but 3.21 are in the mix. They have disc brakes and width is good.

Ford 8.8” from Explorer, as previously mentioned, is plentiful and popular. Limited slip is common. Disc brakes from about ‘94 up as I recall. 3.27, 3.55, 3.73 & 4.10 ratios. These have larger diameter axle tubes, axles and axle bearings and 31 spline. Offset pinion, but under the DeSoto that shouldn’t present any problem. All above axles are 5x4.5” bolt circle. Better choice for trailer towing.

Another worthwhile consideration for your DeSoto would be the MOPAR 8.75 B body axle or a 9” Ford, both are 5 x 4.5” bolt circle. They are rugged and ‘look the part’ by virtue of design/appearance and are drop out third members with lots of ratio choices. I am putting a ‘67 Ford Galaxy 9” under my ‘55 Chrysler hardtop......width is correct, 11 x 2.25 brakes...also very good for trailering....what’s not to like?

Regarding front suspension, having, and having had, several ‘50s Mopars, I agree they have a very good front end, but can be improved by relocating upper shock mounts and disc brakes, as you mentioned. There is no clip from another car or light truck that would be superior to that, especially when weighing the work required to make everything fit. Also, the Dakota and Crown Vic stuff has deep back spacing/minimal front spacing, which makes wheel choices limited if one wants to maintain correct geometry.

just my $ .02

Ray

 

Well hey, you're from Michigan so no big deal. Will you be passing through Wisconsin at all ? Safe travels !!

 

We'll probably be needing some coffee. We don't have any snow here in Kalamazoo, the ground wasn't frozen until yesterday. Supposed to get another "snowpocalypse" tonight, that has now been downgraded to maybe 4", and back into the upper 30's to 40's by Monday and through the week It's been like three months of March. Mud, grey sky, rain. Ugh...

 

Yup. And, the big fun of hauling a trailer around Chicago!

 

More great, practical, real world advice and opinion. Thanks Ray! I haven't been rear end scrounging yet, but the Explorer would be my first choice, and they're $50 at the U-pick truck graveyard, $25 more if they pull it for me. The last time I was there there were a dozen of them, and a gaggle of Dakotas, Cherokees, so, WINNING. I passed on an otherwise pretty nice '54 Ford wagon that was in Oregon a month ago because it had the Crown Vic front crossmember, the tires, mounted on goofy looking deeply offset wheels, still hung outside the fender opening. Done, it had a 5.0 HO and AOD, nice interior, nice paint, but it looked hideous.

Today's project is moving the Riviera out of the shop and into my new storage barn, and clean the shop to get ready for the wagons arrival. We're stoked!

Edit: Of course, I gave away a mid '60's Ford 9" last summer that was just taking up space under the bench. Every time I do something like that, I immediately need it back...

 

I had a 54 new yorker wagon a while back. Would have kept it but for the rust issues. Great running 331. Very cool, "different" cars. Kept the hemi, may go in my 33 royal, and may still have some of the shiney trim stuff in a box.

 

I am envious, sir! Looking forward to watching you go forward with this.

 

Old info now, but in case someone is watching and wants to know about Dodge Dakotas.
1988-1990 have 5 bolt wheels with a 4 1/2" bolt pattern. The 4x4 rear ends are axle under spring but the 2wd have the axle above the spring. You could get either a 7 1/4 or an 8 1/4 rear end, with several gear choices and a possible limited slip. Those year Dakotas were available with either a 4 cylinder standard trans (4 speed OD early, and 5 speed OD later), and a V6 with an auto or 5 speed, Either could have been 4x4. Any truck could have had either rear axle, didn't seem to be any consistency.
1991 - 2003 were all 6 lug wheels.
After 2004, the 5 bolt wheels made a comeback, but they were a different bolt pattern (5 on 5" or 5 1/2" I think). You could get a 7 1/4, an 8 1/4 or a 9 1/4 in the Dakota or the Durango after 2004 with 5 bolt wheels, but not a 4 1/2" pattern.
The Jeep or the Explorer 8.8 are good rear end choices.
The Mopar 8 3/4 are crazy expensive, and most of the 9 1/4 are too wide and you run into a bolt pattern issue.The Ford 9" is a bit pricey if you don't have one.
Gene

 

Brian...Look up Delta Cams in Tacoma, Washington. They have a website...
They have an extensive stock of cams, Hemis a specialty.
Last time I talked with them, they had sent my Winfield SU-1A flathead cam AND my solid Ford FE 406 with new lifters...(that FE was ground from a new blank)
I had asked about a cam for my 276" DeSoto, (it goes in my tub) they said they could 'do it'. (they prefer to use their cores, as Quality Control has already cleared them)

 

On the Explorer 8.8 the passenger side is offset almost 3". That may or may not be an issue depending on your frame. On my 50 Desoto convertible it is a problem due to the x-frame with its center tunnel. I don't know if yours is the same but as a wagon I suspect so.

The reason it is an issue with me is because I'm putting in a Mopar 383 big block and that requires moving the engine over to the passenger side almost 2.5" to clear the steering box. The result is the frame center tunnel is not wide enough to accommodate the drive shaft pushed so far over to the passenger side. Even though the offset trans tail fits in the front of the tunnel, angling the drive shaft even further to meet the even more offset rear pinion causes side interference with the rear of the frame tunnel.

To correct this I'm planning on modifying the rear so the pinion is almost centered. Actually it will be offset just a bit to the drivers side.

It's common to shorten a 8.8 rear 3" by replacing the long tube/axle with a shorter passenger side. That's not what I'm after because the stock width of ~60" is near perfect for my Desoto. Here is a thread from another board on how to center but not shorten. This is what I plan on doing.

https://www.trifive.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-126198.html



Sorry for the long post but hope it's helpful.

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Oh, it's gonna get hot-rodded...

 

Got it! Three on the tree behind the 276 too!


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Looks like a great car!

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Way cool!

 

3 on the tree fluid drive ?

 

I had Delta Cam grind my flatty for an L-100 .They did it ,nitrate coated it & at a decent price with quick turn around. Been running it in my 34 roadster & so it is great.

 

Perfect weekend In Minnesota Warm weather and good roads. Can’t beat that. T-shirt conditions for us natives.

 

Are those the OEM hinges for the tailgate?

 

... That's a big ass back bumper! ...

 

Hey Brian, wife and I went to Minnesota couple years ago to get a roof for my 56 F100. We went up and over on Highway 2 in the U P. But on the way back took the SS Badger across Lake Michigan. Highly recommend it!! We also make enjoyable excursions out of parts/car pickups. Course this may not work for you with a trailer and of course if the Badger isn't running in the ice!

 

Good looking car. Not a lot of extra deck length on the U-Haul trailer!

 

I agree about the bumper. Looks almost like a commercial or business add on/option,

 

Yes, they are original ....

Yep, but it is factory stock rear bumper.

Ray

 

Geez, nice wagon!

I got a gal in Kalamzoo.

 

Yes they are.

 

We're home with it, it's in the garage. I went through through the parts tossed in the back to see what we had and what we'll need. The chrome die cast parts are all horrible, which is why everything is painted silver. I'm not going to worry about it yet, we'll focus on getting it mechanically done and the interior first. The body is SUPER solid, the paint job is a very amateurish one, but it's solid an relatively straight. The 276 is gonna be available, so, hot rod engine anyone? I think it's a fluid drive, the clutch pedal says "Safety Clutch". The column shift is all apart, no lever, so I can't shift it, but it seems to be in neutral. I put a battery in it and jumped solenoid, rolls over, oil is clear. I'm not going to do anything with the engine but pull it.

 

Awsome wagon. Yup, fluid drive. Not to hijack your thread here but I have a used but really pristine set of rear fender moldings for that wagon. PM me if you're interested.

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With?

Ben

 

dibs on the 276 !!!!!1

 

At the risk of being banned, all I can say is that it WILL be a Hemi, and a 392! Other than that, the hood will remain shut for HAMB purposes...