Supposed to be working on the toppers, but I decided to take a few minutes and play around on the top with some fake patina because the top so rusty, and I want to put a new vinyl top in there so I’m practicing turned out pretty good I think can’t really tell! Rustoleum Red Primer/gloss black Real light coats
What are you hitting the black with? Steel wool, scotch bright, 2000 grit sand paper?? Can you do a step by step description? thanks..
I just did a real quick playing around kind of thing, while the glue dried on my top bows I’m working on. So I’ll probably fine-tune it when I really get into it. But here’s what I did so far: Since my lacquer is cracked, I got a scraper, and started scraping the loose stuff off, then I sanded it with some 80 grit to get the rust and stuff smoother, but not perfect, then I played around with some white vinegar to Kind of eat some of the rust. Then you could see the primer and bare metal, so I washed it with freshwater, dried it, wiped it with some brake clean, and then some rubbing alcohol just to get it somewhat clean. got a can of red primer rustoleum put two light coats, then two light coats of gloss black rust oleum let it dry for about an hour. Then I got some 400 put a little Dawn dish soap sanded it really lightly till I started seeing just a little bit of primer, then I got a green 3M pad rubbed it really light with that. Then use the blue 3M sponge thing to kind of blend it a little bit. Like I said it was just playing around. I think the key to it looking real, is to not sand it’s so smooth that the imperfections go away, it’s actually helping me you can see the original cracks and checks underneath if that makes sense?
Yeah, It’s kinda fun trying to be creative about it! Makes people scratch their heads, or do a double take when they look at it.
Looks great. To get the pox marks in the paint, you can shoot the primer, then flick some water on it and shoot the black. Once the black sets, wipe off the water drops, revealing the primer beneath.
Thanks! I’ve been getting lucky, because the “actual” Patina is leaving all the imperfections, rough areas, high spots, etc. so when I wet sand it, it shows through Looks Hella Natural! Once I scuff the old paint, it will all blend hopefully...cant wait to finish the top, so I can work on that.
Initially knowing how it was painted with proper primers first then colors can really make something new look old. Following brushstrokes dry brush and even dirt in the paint will make it more realistic. I really hate it when someone gloss clear coats and makes it shiny. Studying other unrestored cars in junk yards really helps to make it realistic. i have done a few and it really tricks some people.
Try treating the rusty spots with C-L-R before doing what you are doing. Don't forget to neutralize metal before continuing.
I've done this before and added a 3rd color. O.D. green lightly sprayed between the red primer and black. You hardly see it but it was just what it needed.
The third color is a big big help. Water spots are a huge help also . You live wheee I do and it will be fresh pitina in 3 weeks on bare steel . Make it look real or make it new , some of the fake stuff just isn’t cutting it . There is a HAMBer , that has a Willy’s coupe with faux Pitina that is about as cool as I have ever seen someone finish a car .