Technical disc brake swap issue..still got a soft pedal

Some body please stop by and have a look, it almost has to be something fairly simple!

 

I have yet to see the picture of the marshmellow attached to the pedal.this like a friggen soap opera.on the other hand it does say something about barbless hooks

 

Are there no auto repair shops in San Diego that know about disc brakes?

Phil

 

He took it to a brake place,
No plates on the car so they didn’t/couldn’t/wouldn’t drive it but reported back To Vincent that visually everything looked fine. I bet you a cold one they didn’t even take a wheel off. I also bet the car still has that camber issue.

 

I wonder if he could use tooling dykem on the rotor to blue it up.
And then rotate the rotor with someone applying light pressure and see if it rubs off in an even pattern ?
It can always be cleaned off later,,,,no damage to the rotors.

Tommy

 

I had similar issue one time looking at the slide pin. It ended up caliper was at end of slide pin like pics show someone
had put impala calipers on dodge aspen rotors. impala calipers went to 1.215 rotor. dodge aspen had .965 rotor. So I
switched and put 77 malibu calipers which went to .965 rotor on and it put calipers in right place on slide pin seemed to solve my problem.

 

You forgot.... The car suddenly developed a negative camber problem [even though the wheel bearings and ball joints are OK]
It wasn't until post #283 that he mentioned the coils were cut. [but when?]

If he was smart enough........a trolley jack under the front cross-member to lift it up to original ride height might actually confirm where the problem is.


He hasn't checked the clearance between the booster and master cylinder [manual and boosted M/C's have a different shape "Cup"]
But don't worry! "The El Cheapo Ebay seller has got his back"

Personally.....If the original drum brakes were put back on, with some modern "high performance shoes" the car would be driveable [now] and certainly good enough for "spirited driving"
http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/stage15970chevy.html

And then sell the old kit

Drum brakes stop just as good as discs [but not lap after lap on a race track] And they do require some reasonable knowledge to adjust them.
[5 years of drum brake maintenance would still be less than the effort already invested to sort this mess out]

 

I didn't read all the replys But try removing the slide pins and just hang the calipers over the disk and apply the brakes and then apply the brakes again if they don't feel soft the second time it should be the brackets

 

Gimpy is a lot closer than I am, but pay for the plane ticket and I’ll go have a look at it.



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With the wheels off, frame on jackstands, and suspension at full droop, how are cut coils in any way related to the brakes were seeing pictures of here?



Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I’ll pay for my own damn ticket and I damn sure not gonna go look at brakes

 

They're not..............
But refer to his post # 30 "here a picture of my camber as well. was not like that before"

Then by his post # 283 it gets mentioned that the coils were cut.



Other members have been wasting their time trying to help out with their suggestions. So I decided to ask the question [post# 294]

The OP has been back on here since I asked then, but has chosen to "stick his head in the sand" over this one.

It might actually fix 2 problems at once ......by using Dropped spindles that have forged calliper brackets.

 

Well this is the longest lasting wild goose chase I have witnessed on the HAMB!

 

I give up.

I can only do this, in-person.

 

I know late, but this issue ever resolved? Every thread I follow colds or the members says "I got brakes" but never states what the remedy was lol

 

I'm willing to bet he had some interference with the front calipers that didn't allow them to center up. I posted a thread on that here recently, I think. If not, here it is.

If you install those dropped spindles, make sure your brake calipers are not binding on the steering arm. I had to do some grinding to provide clearance. I didnt see this at first and wondered why I couldn't get a good brake pedal.

 

Interesting... doubt that is my issue tho, I have good clearance, and I got the bigg brake kit from CCP, so I have two bleeder on the same side top and bottom, I bleed the bottoms first then the Top.. figuring air travels up, same results, I will tire a few more things before I bore the forum with this issue... it's just been a headache for a few weeks, im afraid to even move the car, thanks for the reply

 

Put your calipers on the discs without any bracket, apply the brakes, I am sure your pedal will not be soft now. Measure up the distances to the fixing points of the brackets and make the correct spacers, washers or whatever is needed and enjoy.

 

Thanks again, about to jacked it up and attemp this, see what happens

 

I believe this might be my issue, calipers aren't sitting center... I believe they should be correct?

 

How can I move the calipers inward... if the mounting is already against the control arm?

 

Just a Johnny come lately but I don't see the inside brake pad?

 

Why do the caliper bolts look like they are hitting the rotor.

 

Yes, they should be centered up and something is preventing them from doing so. They should "float" on the two pins that retain them. Was it hard to get them to line up? If so, see what is binding on them. I can't tell from the pictures. Is the bracket being skewed by the steering arm? It doesn't look like all of that has enough clearance.

 

Also, earlier you mentioned bleeders on the top and bottom of the calipers.

Ignore the bleeders on the bottom, just bleed the one on the top.

The bottom bleeder is there only so the caliper could be mounted on the other side, in which case the bleeder would be on the top.

 

I can't see any way to get them centered? Stumped at the moment

 

Both pads are touching (just bearly to the rotor) when the car is turned on the caliper does move a lil (doesn't have to travel far to touch the rotor)... just rebleed everything no change, will attemp a few other things in the morning (adjusting the booster rod on the pedal) hopefull better pics in the daytime... thanks for the input guys

 

I am betting your problem is with the mounting of the calipers, not hydraulic.