Revamping my Total-T the original steering and brake setup was not just ugly, but scary. I have steering mounted, but now looking at brakes. I'd like to keep with the MC under the floor and not on the firewall. Considering making something to mount the pedal outside the frame rail, then transfer the motion inside via some rods and levers. Anyone have some cool space saving setups they'd show pics of? Trying to find a way to shove 10 lbs of poo in a 5lb bag, yet keep it simple and clean
Pedal outside the frame may not have enough room to the left ?? What didn't you like about the TP setup ?
Gearhead, you might want to check out edwardlloyd's Babushka T thread. He used a pedal booster and master from a Smart car seems pretty compact and pedal comes up from the floor.
Got a bunch of pictures I've saved. don't know if they will help but sometimes when I see different setups I can usually take some ideas from them and make them work for me.
I did that on my 66 Suburban, when I built the tubular front subframe I converted it to floor mount brake pedal with master cylinder on outboard side.
Too help with ideas; When I helped my son do his T-Bucket,getting seat,steering wheel/column/box and pedals all in just the right place for good feel,was careful fit,played mockup many times,tell all was nice feel and windshield high worked too< this matters for a given driver/not others. Not' one size fits all*{ but turned out too fit nicely both of us,Lance is 5'10" an I'm 6' 200lbs. Many buckets don't fit our size well. I been in a number that felt like I sat on it,vs in it. The brake pedal trick I used,was use a wide powerbrake pedal/mounted so pedal is centered behind in pic/ahead of steering column= you can work brake with ether right or left foot. Really works well. The pedal is mounted off set on arm/arm is strong arm 1/2in thick/not a thin 1/4in. as seen in some. What doing it that way gives you,beside a good use pedal,is that arm can be ether side you like of column/an that makes it EZer to fine room for set up under floor when making your own.
The one on the car was literally 3 pieces of 4 inch angle chopped and cobbled. Pedal so far out that the gas pedal had to be up on top the trans hump. Ergonomics of the car were horrible. Pedal on the outside wont leave much room, just looking for ideas,
I'll be watching @Gearhead Graphics what you come up with. Have you thought about up under the cowl? https://pinkeesrodshop.com/products/cnc-machined-pedal-assembly-introductory-price-1099-save-200/
Under cowl was the initial plan. But with a 7 inch cowl, and needing room for guages in the dash it quickly ran out of room. I keep trying to stash SOMETHING under the cowl, but on a bucket thats almost impossible. Might end up with a little glove box. Busy day at work, ive drawn out some ideas to mount the pedal outside the frame, and then linkage the action to the MC on the inside the frame. Next shop day ill be seeing how I can build it. Best thing about that frame, its same size as a 2x4, so sacrifical lumber instead of the real car
Make sure the pivoting levers on your linkage on either side of the frame are indexed so they can't go over center and use components that give the smoothest operation such as rod ends. Use replaceable bushings on the thru-frame "jackshaft" pivot, either Oilite or a high wearing plastic bushing such as Delrin. If regular brass bushings are used there needs to be a zerk fitting to lube the pivot shaft.
If I did mine over I was going to make a dogleg off the outside of the frame and just move my current under floor pedal assembly over to it, then use a couple through frame brake line fittings to get the brake lines back on the inside of the frame.
@swade41 , thats not a bad idea at all. I dont have enough room for the frame to be kicked out that far. Really just enough room for a pedal. Going to the salvage yard Thursday to pilfer some parts. Have most of it in my head aside from some bushings and some sort of keyed jack shaft. We will see...
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