Less than a week ago I was looking at the posts-- and someone comented about what he mixed together and applied on his car to keep it from rusting, said he only had to do it couple times a year, kept patina look without it rusting. I remember he commented he didn't like the clear coat paint over the old original paint. I' pretty sure it was acetone and mabey gum?? turpentine?. Hopefuly someone remembers or he"ll see this.I've went through the ads and can't find it. I thought it may of been in someone else garage tips but I have had no luck finding it I have an old car I would like to try it on and so does my neighbor.Many Thanks and Happy New Year!!
Boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits 2 parts linseed 1 part spirits Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Found it: little tips and tricks for garage hobbyist ,by Ron Brown; boiled linseed oil and acetone- 50/50. I want to thank everyone for there help and will be trying their mixtures also.
I was thinking the same thing. I've used WD40 on old finishes and it looked good to me. I just needed to reapply it every now and then to make it look good and to clean the dust off. It really attracted dust.
Heard of guys spraying diesel fuel, or mixed with motor oil, maybe not on exterior but undercarriage, metal stuff left outside etc.. Anyone do this?
If I am trying to save old paint I use car wax. Turtle wax liquid if you're lazy. I don't like to do much that has to do with oil or any petroleum product on something that I may want to paint some day. @blowby kerosene or diesel fuel mixed with drain oil is kind of the old standby for undercarriages. Painted or bare.
First of all; Do not use lubricants, such as WD40 (or diesel fuel, god forbid...) on your car exterior (or interior) surfaces, no matter what you are looking to preserve. Oil will not ever dry, but only collects dust & dirt and tarnish everything & every one... Boiled linseed oil is basically a simple organic lacquer, but dries very slowly on hard, non absorbing surfaces (as you know it's commonly used on wood). I suppose Ron Brown found that acetone used as thinner will accelerate the linseed oil drying process? I will also try this recipe, but starting with less acetone (70% BLO/30% acetone), adding acetone only if necessary for drying. Acetone is hard solvent, it may damage old paint depending on the type of the paint... As Iron Dave mentioned, mineral spirit might be safer alternative for old paint, but it may not be quick enough solvent to help BLO dry quick enough and properly (?) Anyway, the most important is to use BOILED linseed oil (=Varnish), not straight linseed oil (which would never dry).
I've had some anecdotal experience with boiled linseed oil. My home is dark red brick and my lawn irrigation causes a chalky, mineral build-up where ever the spray hits the brick. Muriatic acid fails to remove much of the minerals but rolling or brushing on BLO does make it totally invisible. I can't say if the BLO prevents future build-up or not because the "invisible" effect only lasts for a month and the chalky crud is back, in my face again. It's not exactly a scientific test, but to me, that adds up to the protection only lasting a month. This next summer, I'm thinking of trying clear, flat. rattle can paint to test a section of the brick. You might try the same test on that patina mobile.
If I were wanting to do what I think you're asking, I too would go the boiled linseed oil cut with about 25-30% mineral spirits, just to thin it a bit for application. After it's wiped on and left for a few minutes I believe it would be a good idea to use rags to try to "buff" off the excess so you don't end up with a sticky surface. Just my opinion, but I do believe that's what some antique tractor guys do around here. It brings out and brightens the color of the remaining paint. Good luck. Maybe post before and after photos. Lynn
I don't allow any kind of linseed oil on my property. Too dangerous when put on rags.........so I just don't ever use it for anything, and that way I can't make a mistake.
I use danish oil. It's a blended furniture oil, has linseed in it. Dries to hard film like furniture oil should. Shoot it inside doors and cavities like fluid film. I already have it from doing furniture, so I didn't buy linseed. Really like Johnsons paste wax ( for floors) to protect surfaces that are missing paint. It's carnuba mixed with turpentine. Lasts much longer than any car wax. It does evaporate fast so be ready to work, or use a buffer.
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