The crank is different. It is also a lot beefier. I am not sure what you mean when you say "... longer rods on a 153 crank"? Longer rods on a 153 crank would just run the pistons into the head. Maybe you are thinking of grinding the throws off center? Charlie Stephens
A 305 has a 3.48 inch stroke, not a 3.25. However a 307 is 3.875 x 3.25, so a 153 is half of a 307. And you cannot use 283 pistons even though they have the same bore diameter, the pin height will be incorrect due to the 283s 3 inch stroke.
Any chance you can show wha radiator you using and how the hoses are routed? As just mentioned 283 has incorrect wrist pin height. 307 pistons are what you’d want. Also as far as I can tell stock flattop 307 pistons are what was used to make these little motors 10:1 comp in some factory applications
You sure of this, boys? You're the experts..What does a W235NP piston fit? 153 uses a 5.7 rod so what is the deck height of a 153 ? 283?
Someday I still want to use the 181 block and pistons with the 153 crank but need to find the 5.85” rods or perhaps stay with the 5.7” rods and a 327 flat top. Then use a 181 head with an individual runner intake with Weber size drafts. So many ideas so little cash.
Yes, I confused the 305 and the 307. I'm not a small block aficionado. Doing the math none of these engines come out exactly what they are called. Some come closer than others. One thing I found out while trying to use 307 pistons is that the manufactures lower the pin height with oversize pistons to keep compression to the stock specs. So the bigger the overbore the farther down the hole the piston sits. I got several sets of .040 over pistons before I learned this. I'm using Ross forged flat tops for a 250 L6 with 181 rods and crank. 153 and 181 rods are the same length but the 181 uses the same bearing as a 350 while the 153 uses the 283 bearing. On my block the Ross pistons stick out the top .020" and have to be fitted for zero deck. On the next one I'll deck the block to fit the 307 pistons.
“I’m not a Small Block aficionado.” Don’t worry! There’s still time! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Trying to figure out what fits you could always find an older shop with catalogs that is willing to work with you. Or maybe a GM dealer on a slow day? You should be able to look up the parts for the banger and then cross reference to other applications. If I remember correctly the parts came from a number of different small block V8 and 6 cylinder engines. Charlie Stephens
Obviously a wrong-headed addled septuagenarian comment. The stroke of the crank is what defines; longer rods do not. My apologies
Not a problem. Sometimes it is hard to get your head around it all at once. There are at least 3 threads on the HAMB about these engines. Some of the information is wrong and I posted some of it. We learn as we go.
Years ago I acquired one of these engines in a trade. It was in a Willys flat fender. It was hopped up years ago with a bunch of great goodies. I got it to put in my daughters (15) Model T lakesmod, with a T5 that we are building now. The engine turned out to be a 181, Erson cam (hooped) Mallory ignition, header, stainless valves, Clifford 4bbl intake etc. It still had stock rods and pistons. Well I just sold off my vintage racecars that run hopped up 250 Chevys. Had some parts left over and low and behold my kids engine now has 4" TRW flat top forged pistons and Eagle H beem rods! I am going to build my own intake with 2 97s or 2GCs. Were looking for a "CHEVY" valve cover... Also need an aftermarket camshaft, anyone holding? Or have advice on a cam that works good with a stick? -Shiny
Hoping to have my T with the 153 on the road by spring. Lump ported head, dual 97s, Frontenac cover with and adapter, Isky cam, flat top pistons. Mated to a T50 5 speed should be a fun little car. Only question I still have is what are people doing for distributors? I have one with a vacuum advance and several Mercruisers without.
I race some vintage midgets that use these engines, mostly 181's. All of mine have magnitos. I do have some stock 153's in a storage shed and one of them may have a points ign. still in it. I also have a bunch of cores to sell, marine head, blocks, cranks ect. THANX RICH
didnt read all 16 pages, but the 153 were the same motor as the 67 chevy2, the earlier models had a 2" crank journal size.. later 2.1iirc. the 140/3.0 also have custom pistons witha special pin height.. 2 thou more than regular.. I rebuild these and not always 100% on the exact specs till i double check and confirm I cross reference the parts on rockauto.. usually you can get a set for a v8 (bearings/rings/etc) for just a little more than for a 4 banger - They are DEAD reliable.. i know some mercruiser guys tried fuel injection on them to up the power to 185 and had issues.. so i would leave it stock if anything id port the heads, maybe ill the block down and play with a nice street cam.. cant see the need for more than one carb but it is cool to have 2 Odd bore size too on the 153.. 3.875
Looks like you took my 3X1 Offey intake mod to the next level with 2X2 instead of my 2X1. Looks great! A Harper approach to a part of 97s on one of these engines would be fun to try.
Is your 181 a one or two piece rear main seal engine? Are the rods for the four or did you use small block rods? What grind is your Erson cam? That's aftermarket.
It is a 2 piece rear seal. The rods are from one of my 250 six cylinders, really nice pieces. SBC rods have a different thickness main. Not sure what grind the Erson cam is, numbers punched on it are messed up. Any kniw a good cam to run in one of these with a stick? -Shiny
Cause I'm looking way and don't feel like looking it up , will a 181 crank work in a 153 block? , What pistons would you use with a shorter compression height ?
Here are 3 Erson cam profiles that were worked up for my build before Erson moved back east. I chose #3. Yes the 181 crank will work in a 153 block. There may be interference with #2 rod and the fuel pump lobe on the cam. I am using Ross forged flat top 250 Chevy six pistons and stock 181 rods. They are about .020" too tall and have to be fitted. That will vary from block to block if they have been decked,
Still waiting to hear what the deck height spec is on a stock 153 block..What are they , really? Google is so totally f*cked now.. "What is the deck height on a Chevy II , 153 engine?" Answer: "Chevy II's? Seriously, we got'em at Ebay..."
https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/size-doesnt-matter-the-tale-of-the-chevy-iinova-153-il-4-engine/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just for informational and interest purposes, there is a huge following in Brazil and other South American areas of the Chevy Opala. Found this fellow that owns Classic Racing Parts in Brazil Jean Michel Colet. They build some really stout 4 and 6 cylinder GM engines. Head porting on the 153 style heads looks amazing. They have intakes, forged pistons, etc. Classic Racing Parts is on Youtube and you can see some interesting work on these engines. Jean's email to me: "First, I would like to invite you to follow our social network, Instagram, see: https://www.instagram.com/classicracingpartsoficial/ Yes, we work a lot with them, and we have spare parts, here there is the 151 "which is 3" of course x 4 "piston. The model 153" only came out 4 years in Brazil from 1970 to 1974. This one crankshaft stroke is 3.25 ". We put it on the 151" engine with the 4 "pistons yielding a 164" engine"
The Brazilian version is like the US Iron Duke 151 cubic inch engine that has 4 intake ports and not like the older US 153 engine that has just 2 Siamese intake ports like the larger 194,250,292 six cylinder engines which has 3 intake ports.
Really nice looking rebirth of the Chev II in your T. As to your distributor......Rich mentioned magneto. Likc Rich, I have also had several midget race cars with Chev II motors. I just sold my last car about a month ago. It was a 153 Chev II installed in a Solar rail frame chassis in the 1960's when the Ford V8/60 was removed. Instead of a Vertex magneto, the engine builder converted a Wico tractor magneto to be adapted to the original lower distributor body of the 153. It was a really nice setup and very traditional. I still have several other "homemade" tractor magneto conversions to Chev II on the shelf. That type of a unit would really set you apart from the crowd. I do not know any of the fine points of the process of marrying the magneto to the distributor body, but there may be some experts out there. Have fun
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