Technical 6v battery dies in 5 seconds

Thanks Bones, I'm doing exactly that right now, it's a pretty janky set up as it is now, gonna see if I can clean it up some. I think there's a strong possibility that I'm shorting somewhere cuz the dist was fine before I pulled it.

 

Also, I did confirm the dist. is OEM IAZ-4003 Auto-lite

 

Ok, so this is how I have the assembly wired put tog6where the wire from the coil comes in. The wire is 10 ga. I also have one that is 14 ga. if that makes any difference

Thanks guys

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That bolt is wrong! Looks Jerry rigged. Need to replace all that with the proper stuff.
10 gauge wire is too large for this job, but that is not the problem.

Do you have a multimeter! If so, check to see if you have continuity between the bolt and the housing. If so you have found your problem. Maybe someone reproduces the parts you need there?





Bones

 

There's your problem! That bolt HAS to be insulated from the distributor body! It looks like the inside connector is against the distributor body. A quick and easy way to test is to make up a new wire to run from the points and out the side of the distributor to the coil. If it runs, you know you need to find a grommet that will insulate that bolt that holds the wire connections on. I ran into this on a 8N Ford tractor this summer, it would run for a while, then lose power to the points. The grommet was rotten on the bottom, allowing the bolt to shift and ground out.

 

it's hard to see in the pic, but i do have a rubber grommet between the dist housing and the fork connector on each side of the housing. However, it wasn't that way before I changed it. Also, I will switch to 14 gau. wire.

 

Go back and read Grumpys post #92! It details trouble shooting and will point you in the right direction!






Bones

 

I agree, if that bolt isn't insulated it will ground out on the distributor housing. It looks like a carriage bolt! This might not be the original problem but it sure as hell ain't gonna start with the wire grounded out to the housing.

 

This is the new set up, connectors separated from housing with bigger grommets on both sides on a different bolt and smaller lead wire. Thanks all!

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That looks better! I hope that grey block is an insulater. But you still need to check to see if it’s shorting out to the housing, just to be sure. Those things can be tricky.
Is that bolt shorting out on the plate when it moves? Looks close in the pic.





Bones

 

It could be arcing from the bolt to the plate. It could also arc to the housing where it passes thru the distributor body if it isn't insulated all the way through.

 

Thanks guys, I will make sure nothing touches, and yes the block on the inside is a plastic insulator

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Can you move the plate by hand with the dist out of the car? That way I can check clearances, etc. Thanks

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I would just use a wire from the points to the coil through a grommet. All distributors I've had do it this way. The bolt isn't necessary

 

Yes, disconnect the vacuum can, or put a hose on it and create a vacuum to move it

 

The proper insulator for that set-up is a sleeve that insulates the bolt all the way through the housing.


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Doesn't someone (Kanter, etc.) stock a Delco distributor small parts kit?
That 'insulating grommet' could be made on a lathe, from a rod of delrin (or similar, 'poly prop', etc.)
Hell, if that nice little hemi was mine, I'd cut some delrin out on my drill press! Or my vintage 1922 Allen Electric lathe...

 

Couldn't he just use a piece of vacuum hose as well???

 

That's the plan

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That's the way I do them, too. One less connection to worry about.

53 guy, got it going yet?

 

A simple procedure with no question of grounding.

 

Close! I did what you guys suggested and ran the wire direct to the points through a rubber grommet. Installed brand new coil. Finally getting spark to plugs, although it seems weak. She's trying to start though! So I'm pretty sure all you guys were right about something grounding out.
Gonna pick up some new plug wires cuz a couple of the boots on mine are cracked and beat up. Will spend some more time tonight adjusting dist. to try to get her going.

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Let us know how it turns out!

 

If it's trying to start maybe with all the distributor removal and reinstallation you have dropped the dist. in 180 degrees out. It's time to check to make sure its coming up on the compression stroke and not exhaust. Just because the timing mark is lined up and you drop in the dist. aimed at the #1 wire doesn't mean its right. Did you always have the rotor pointed in the right direction every time you reinstalled the distributor? Ralphie

 

I'm pretty positive I'm on the compression stroke because I can feel air coming out of the spark plug hole as the cylinder is coming up to the top. And I do have the road are pointed at the number one cylinder when the distributor goes back and. It's tough though because the distributor goes back behind the manifold between the manifold and the fire wall. It's a really tight fit and according to the manual I have to have the oil pump shaft slot lined up with the beveled shaft end on the distributor which is a super PITA to do while still keeping the rotor pointed at #1.

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Once you get the disturber hooked into the cam gear, you can turn the engine over and put gentle pressure on the disturber and it will fall into place.
Might want to get a set of plugs. All that turning with out spark, could have gas fouled the plugs. Maybe.






Bones

 

will do, thanks

 

Update: closer than yesterday but still no start.
-With multimeter I tested from battery side of coil to condenser, and to points and got 6.4.
-battery itself tested at 6.5.
-Got nothing from battery side of coil to top of rotor, 0.0. Should I see something there?
- Rotor spins when car is cranked.
-Pulled high tension coil wire from top of dist and set it next to head bolt. Got spark when cranking, but not the "good blue spark", looked pretty weak, same with spark plug #1.
-Ran jumper from neg battery terminal to battery side of coil and tried to start, same result.

Tomorrow I will have a new cap and rotor and new MSD plug wires. BTW spark plugs brand new this week.

Thanks guys

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You should not see any reading from coil terminal to rotor. Your spark should be blue. The other reading are right, if the points are open. Use a light on the points side of the coil and turn the engine over , it should go off and on.





Bones

 

I've been reading this in bits and pieces so I can't remember if this has been covered or not. In the picture in post #68 it looks like the points on the left side of the picture are not as open as they should be. Points not opening fully will give you a weak spark, as will points gapped too far open.