I’ve been having trouble with these two stromberg 81 carburetors ever since their rebuild. I elected to install the check ball style valve to replace the stock float needles, as well as new matching set of 71 bypass jets and idle jets. The float adjustment is something that I always eye-balled and estimated somewhere below spec to avoid flooding. I finally decided to dive in and set the level precisely by observing actual fluid level. I’ve read that ideally there should be 1/2” - 5/16” margin between fuid level and top machined edge of the carb bowl while the motor was running. I invented this method of pressurizing fuel into the bowl while on my bench. Seems to have worked well, but please let me know if there is something wrong with doing it this way. Anxious to see how they perform!
Tried to fire up the car with no luck this morning. Had I made a mistake? Impossible. No fuel to the carbs; bad nos fuel pump? Maybe. I disassembled to find one bad valve I think. Rebuilding now with a kit from the Early Ford Store.
Yes, the kit came with new levers. But the pump was a very old nos unit still in box. I only replaced the large diaphragm, and both valves... it works!! Fired right up.
I went through the same problem with my Roadsters original tank. Finally ordered a Vintique repo because it has all the appearance of an original. Some of the repos don't have the top gussets on the sides like the original. Your '32 looks great!!!
I have a Stainless Steel big range fuel tank in my 32 Phaeton. Plenty of gas to go anywhere! Enviado do meu iPhone usando H.A.M.B.
There are traces of the previous maroon color under the primer. And beneath that, I am certain is the original ford black. I’ll experiment later with peeling off the layers, and will likely patch into the original black paint.
Nice. It would be interesting to see if you can get the gunk paint off and maintain the black underneath
Master cylinder to pedal. I cut off the end of the a actuating rod that came with the ‘68 mustang replacement master. And without a plan, I cut some 1/2” threads onto the end. I don’t know why I started there, but I had to start somewhere. So I started there..
Adjustable pedal rod to master Cylinder with high offset pivot: DONE Not too pretty but should do the trick safely.
Have you checked the brake pedal/arm ratio? The overall effective arm which you have shown may result in high braking effort. Usually the pedal ratio needs to be 6:1 or better to work properly.
Torched the brake arm to the left to clear the motor. Torched the clutch arm to the left for a little more toe-room along the steering column.
Very true, I was concerned about that so I offset the pivot below the pedal to be as close as possible to the pedal assembly pivot. I’m hoping it will feel about the same as my model A which uses the same master. I calculated about 5.7:1. I’m hoping that will work ok.
Nice job on the push rod and assembly , way nicer than the cobbled rebar and blind monkey welds done but a long forgotten owner on our 32. With the angle way wrong. Down under we can’t weld brake or steering components like you did on the brake pedal actuating arm. I found a new 32 pedal at the Roundup that was cast/forged with the arm already made for hydraulics,dont know who made it , but it was nice.
You need a jamb nut on both sides of your middle female connector, and if the forward fully-threaded rod doesn't bottom into the connector link with the pin, it should have a jamb nut too. Might be better to make a simple one-piece rod that is round on one end and threaded on the other. Then you only need one jamb nut. The undercut near the rounded end should be easy to do on a lathe if you have access to one (or a buddy with one).
I have one jam nut on the rear lug. I’ll put another set on the inside stud - that is a good idea. No lathe, but that is exactly what I wanted initially. Just hand tools, a drill press and a welder machine here at home and that entire amalgamation was a work around to not having a lathe. I’ll have to make a cleaner unit with some help once I’ve confirmed that the system works well.
I've looked twice without saying anything, but I don't think your brake push rod is a sound design. The pivot point being offset will set up a bending moment in the shaft. You might get away with it, but it is not a sound design. I did a conversion on a 32 and here is what I did different. I mounted the cylinder in a similar way, but set it back far enough for the seal area to clear the K member. This allowed it to be fitted as high as possible with the push rod only just clearing the lower face of the K member. You need the cylinder as high as possible, and setting it back allows it to go higher. The lever on the pedal needs to be long enough so that the push rod just clears the lower face of the K member. You need to check at the extreme ends of the travel as this is where the clearance is at the least. This results in a straight pushrod and a straight pushing motion with no bending moment and is an inherently safe design. Of all the millions of cars on the road I would be willing to bet not one manufacturer has ever sent one out the door with a brake pushrod with a bend in it. Brake pushrod aside, I'm really enjoying the build and would love to be working on something similar. Mart.
The Jalopy Journal
