Technical ***September 2019 Banger Thread Cool September Mornings***

Well another HRHC is in the books! Had a blast as always, met up with friends and made new ones. Saw some great cars, including some bangers that ran like hell! A really well run show with events, food, entertainment, and even the weather, planned out perfectly. Mike and Amy and the rest of the crew deserve stickers for their hardhats for these events.
My old four barrel was its usual trusty self. Other than the fouled plugs/shitty gas (vice-versa?) and a quick tighten of the water pump, no issues at all.

 

Time to retire the "Road Hopper" .he served his purpose well...

 

After many hours of careful fabrication, I think the payoff was worth it. The race-engineered exhaust and strategically finned throttle arm gained me so much horsepower that wheel spin became an issue...

 

Use your timing pin to find top dead and then mount this indicator on and file a groove at zero
Make sure you have a "A" front cover, The "B" cover pin timing is offset for the B dist.



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There are better ways but the easiest solutionmaybe the best for you.
OR
You can make a piston stop,
Mount it on the block when the head is off,
Mount a degree wheel,
Make a pointer,
Find the compression stroke,
hit the stop both ways,
Do the math,
Mark the pulley.



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I did seat of the pants feel for my timing. Runs good though. Haven't even checked the plugs yet

 

timing by ear works just have to curb yourself,back it off a tad from where it runs best..the purists diddle with it all the time at 4.2 to 1..at 6 or 7 to 1 you can fudge up or down a bit and still run good,I check my 'ear' with the timing light and Im within a degree or two..

 

Just my $0.02,
Having timing marks and timing light is good practice.
Having timing marks that are not accurate are worst than non at all.
Had a motor come in with owner claiming that he ran 60 deg's total timing, 25 at idle.
The marks were 19 deg's off, go figure.

If you have proper way to set the marks, by all means do it.
Oh, with head off, it doesn't matter if on compression stroke. Best to use solid stop method and stop must be on piston centerline front to rear as to not let piston rock cause error.

J

 

I put my finger over the plug hole until I feel compression , then put a little round stick in the hole & slowly turn motor over till I feel it top out . you can roll the crank back & forth , to get the feel exactly where top is .
shade tree I know , but with head on it works for me . with head off I have done the high tech way . makes it fun !

 

Some hill climb pics.


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Another one


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I have a few. Dang app won’t let me post more than one at a time.


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Engine from the one above.


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Other side.


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Thanks John some Great banger Pics.. Next Year!!

 

That's some serious spring on the carbonator. Thanks for the pics.

 

I have a couple more to post up later. I am surprised nobody had anything to say about that twin updraft, right hand drive pic u put up. I had never seen a manifold with built side by side carbs.


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random banger stuff from hotrod hill climb

 

couple more last ones got a few more cylinders but pretty cool

 

That twin updraft setup was pretty cool- I didn't get a chance to see it run.

 

A friend sent me this

 

I had one that I never got the chance to run, sold it to a guy in Germany. Would be curious to know how it ran vs stock.

 

Flipped my spare intake and made an adapter to make it downdraft.mockup carb for now.

 

Something I forgot about - I installed one of Murray's dampers earlier this summer. I don't know if it makes a big difference in felt vibration in my car, being open and fairly windy/noisy. HOWEVER - all the buzzing screws/ mirror vibration and such I used to have at about 1800-2000 rpm are now GONE. It's also quite warm after a highway run, much more so than the front cover and other engine parts in the vicinity. To me that means it's doing something. It also fit perfectly!

 

Question. We’re the halibrand 101 qc gears out back the same as the halibrand v8 gears. Looking to scoop up a hali 101 but it has no rear gears.

 

The 101 uses 1 inch and the V8 uses 1 3/8 inch.

 

model A gears work in the 101 . qc gears are ez to find .

all model A parts inside ……………. steve

 

Well life happened and it hit the fan pretty hard when I got home...oh well..
Lost all my photos, it appears and that is why I quit posting.
It was GREAT to see all the HAMB banger buddies!!! The weather was super.
You guys are the best ever and I look forward to the next gathering.
Motor safely, motor lots!

 

Thanks gents. The next question is where can I find these qc gears. Does someone repop them ?

 

Some of you may recall my offer to transport a car or equipment to the West Coast, well a Nashville fabricator had me haul some stuff out for him, this got me off the hook with my bride who said taking a trailer out was going to cost too much.

Bonneville had rain Thursday so the meet was delayed till Tuesday, we used my trailer to haul salt from the potash plant to fill holes and ruts in the entry road and in the pit area so I was looking good with the bride having the trailer there.

Got to Santa Rosa and started to fill it up, picked up the only chassis that survived the Santa Rosa fire from the five club members that lost everything. It was 99% done as a speedster waiting for paint and while the glass body was lost the chassis and running gear was not really hurt.

Pick up a very low mileage west coast A inserted long block and another same inserted block only.

I had an overhead track system in storage for a year and a half so on the trailer it went

Also had some Borg Warner O/D stuff for A's that needed to go along with a B cam,

Traveled south to Orange Co. and picked up a nice old school B inserted block with what be V 8 60 shell bearings and a front cover modified for an oil pump including the pump

In a barn that used be in an Orange grove I plucked a B long block with pan that had been stored there since 1952

I have had a great trip!