Technical ***September 2019 Banger Thread Cool September Mornings***

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
Saturday, September 7, 2019
16th Annual North Central Region F.A.S.T. Speed Meet
Worth County Fairgrounds, Northwood, Iowa
4 miles south of the Minnesota Border, 7 miles east of I - 35
September 13-15, 2019 The 5th Annual Hot Rod Hill Climb
Central City, Colorado
October 4th, 5th and 6th T.R.O.G. Wildwood, NJ
2019 SCTA El Mirage Race Dates:
All events are held at the El Mirage Dry Lake in Southern California.
July 21st ***CANCELED DUE TO CRACKS IN THE LAKE BED***
September15th
October 20th
November 9th - 10th
2019 SCTA/BNI Bonneville Race Dates:
The BNI has two major events each year at the Bonneville Salt Flats outside of Wendover Utah.
August 10th - 16th, Speed Week
October 1st - 4th, World Finals

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: [email protected]
phone: 951-695-7313.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

New Banger Block in the Works
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-banger-block-in-the-works.616056/

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

cooler weather is welcome........

 

Is it September already? Third quarter is shot

Wish it would cool off here, I agree, it would be welcome.
Learned a valuable lesson.... if I can remember in the future...
Used block sealant on the Vicky trying to stop the leaks in the block prior to stitching it up.
I took it to town today for breakfast with the chums.
I had to stop a half of dozen times coming home because it was boiling over. I'd let it cool down and open the cap then dump the contents of the puke tank back into the radiator.
It is only a 14 mile drive or so but it does climb in elevation 1800' in elevation in that 14 miles.
It was low 80's. This didn't make sense to me.. It is a new 10 fin per inch, two row Brassworks radiator. I have a three row on order but the two row shouldn't boil over like this. I want to take this to Hot Rod Hill Climb in less than 2 weeks but it is un-drive-able this way.
I got to thinking as I was waiting for it to cool off about all the sealant I put in the cooling system to try to stop the bleeding. I set up a back flush and I cant believe all the hardened water glass I flushed out of the system. I believe it was plugging the inlet to the tubes in the radiator.
Mechanic in a can will get you every time.

 

Cleaned up the Zipper and going to a neighborhood car show Monday. Will post some photos

 

Checking in for the month. I put a Webber carb and intake on my coupe and took it for a test drive. The crank bolt became loose and the pulley moved forward and in spinning it must have caught the key and broke the pulley. In doing that it took out the front seal. Also the clutch bearing was making a little noise so decided to pull the motor to change the throw out and be able to get the pulley off. The clutch is a V8 unit and is on a cutdown flywheel. I must have had the clutch adjusted too tight to wear out the clutch bearing and I also wore down the round head bolts on the end of the arms on the pressure plate. Does anybody know where I can get some of those bolts for the pressure plate? I need them in a hurry because the hill climb is less than two weeks away. Here is a pic of the worn out one.

The pressure plate is aftermarket so They are different than some stock ones I saw. They look like the ones I saw on the bob drake site. I can get a new assembly but hate to spend the money for just a little bit of hardware. Hate to change pressure plates because it is balanced to the flywheel. Ant help is appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Binger, PM sent, Geary

 

Checking in for September. I lurk here but rarely post. My roadster has been down for 5 years and its finally getting close to getting back on the road. New engine from Joe in Turlock with inserted bearings and full oil pressure. Dan Price head and dual Strombergs, Red's header into a split exhaust. At the same time as the engine went in I found an RT 4 speed and a shortened drive shaft to go infront of the rebuilt rear end. It seemed to be a simple thing to get together but like all hot rod projects it was one little thing after another. Had to relieve the gas tank lip on the dash to make clearance for the overhead, etc, etc etc. While I was at it I noticed a gas discoloration at the location of the column drop so I decided to fabricate a cross member under the tank and hang the column from that so there would never be any connection to the tank. Hopefully that will buy me a few more years. Since the new engine requires a 12 volt starter I have to rewire the whole car and am installing new gauges on the under tank crossmember. I thought I could do this all in a couple of weeks but its been another 9 months. I am still shooting to be on the road for the MAFCA tour in my winter home town in October. I thought I had posted a similar thread sometime back but I cant find it so here it is. No current pictures of the interior work but those will come shortly (I hope)

 

Used some of this stuff today..picture shooting bondo through a paint gun.Its amazing whats available today,years ago it was bondo, primer and paint..now there are all kinds of epoxies.So I shot the decklid and lower panel with the goo,will block it out tomorrow, did the lower driver door too. One thing,,don't work in hot weather,it was over 95 here today and that stuff set up quick,it hardened in the gun.

 

Here in the southern hemisphere spring has sprung, it was Fathers Day ( first Sunday in September for us). We had a beautiful warm day for the first drag race of the new season . Looking forward to more summer roadster weather.

 

I managed to keep all the ancient parts going the same direction at the same time. However, I also managed to get myself disqualified. During the practice on Friday, entering the "Corkscrew" at near 20 mph faster than the #16 car (the Hudson-Railton on the upper right of the photo) I was over at his right. As he moved over to the right to enter the left turn I moved off the track, over the "Rumble Strips", near the wall. My wheel hit his right rear. Of course both being "open wheel", it launched my car in the air. Coming back down from the blue sky, my wheel hit his exhaust hard enough to break his exhaust manifold at the flange.

Later the Chief Steward told me that much as he enjoyed my car and my driving over the years; there was so much damage to the Railton that, if he didn't disqualify me, every other guy involved in contact would "squawk"! Much to his relief, I didn't get pissed off and leave. We enjoyed the rest of the weekend. BTW my car showed no damage!

 

I dig the engine turned firewall. Nice work.

 

I hope you used a $10 disposable Harbor Freight spray gun.

 

Got it all out while it was still soft,gotta admit that part made me nervous,I notice the stuff 'broke' and hauled ass cleaning the gun..

 

North Iowa FAST hillclimb This Saturday Sept 7
I will attach a file, we will see if it works, I am better with a car than a PC.......

 

Well september started off rough for my banger powered T...was riding around town with my gf when i decided i was gonna drop it down in 1st gear and floor it and see what my old (stock motor) roadster would do....and ill be pulling the head off tommorow and putting a new head gasket on

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I’m starting to buy parts to rebuild my banger. I have a question to bug you guys with.

Do you balance the whole assembly like a v8 if I buy a Burlington forged weighted/balanced crank, same weight rods and same weight pistons.

 

yes, & include the flywheel, pressure plate,(&, if you run one, the harmonic balancer) all balanced as a unit.

 

If the crank is balanced and the rod and piston weights match then all you have to do if the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch..for a good static balance.Dynamic balancing everything has to be spun as unit. If it were mine Id go with flywheel, pp and clutch dynamic balanced, run the crank rods and pistons...and use an harmonic balancer..

 

Good info. When I had my flywheel cut down my machinist neutral balanced the flywheel. Then added the pressure plate and balanced that.

 

Rear end in the front yard...now there's a man with his priorities right,takes a good eye to value yard art like that..

 

You're money in my book..start building!

 

Are forged Burlington cranks still available?

 

97. I believe so. I see them on their website. Going to give them a call.

 

Burlington has them in stock ready to roll.

 

Make sure to get recommended bearing sizes if not using Babbitt.

I seem to recall the Burlington crank was just a little too large in the mains for the inserts available.

J

 

When I wanted one I got this ,Burlington's website was not there. I will contact them again, it appears that the price has risen substantially , when I was first offered one, by a NZ dealer it was 995.00 NZ dollars. NZ $ is sustantially less than US dollars.
http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/NewItems.html

 

I think the trouble started when the bearing supplier changed the inserts from white metal to aluminum or something similar. I remember reading it on that same website I referenced in the post above.

 

Yes. They have their insert bearings to use in the motor. I’ll be doing that and their inserted rods to go with it.

 

you going to pressurize it?

 

pressurized requires a lot of machine work , but in mho it is worth it . best find a machinist that is familiar with bangers . my system uses a modified v8 oil pump pre set pressure . it is always the same & constant