Projects 1932 Jalopy Roadster Build

I'm not seeing the distributor cap where the plug wires connect??
In what way was the twelve cylinder distributor modified to work on your V8?
Thanks,

Phil

 

Here is a photo of the underside of each cap. Notice that 4 of the plug wire contacts are filled, and that the contacts on the rotor were lengthened. The cam was also modified for 8 cylinders. The benefit of the modification was to take advantage of the dual coils/condensers on the factory unit. The alternating spark allowed plenty of recharge time at higher rpm’s.
This is my oversimplified understanding of the system, anyway.

 

I realized that I will not be needing the side mounts on the water pumps as I intend to use the stock ‘32 type mounts... so I cut the tabs off and reshaped the water pumps. ( I forgot to do this before I painted the motor earlier today. Argghh )

 

‘32 motor mounts completed.

 

I am swapping out the original 32 transmission in favor of a fresh ‘39 box I’d been hoarding away.



I’ll need to re-used the stock rear mounting hardware and original clutch lever. I’ll also be replacing front and rear gaskets for good measure.

 

It appears that I am running a 4.11 rear end so I’m hoping this 25t cluster configuration will help distance my shift point to second gear on the 1/8th mile.

Looks like I’ve got a pretty healthy chip on second gear too. I’m crossing my fingers that it won’t become a problem..

 

25 tooth indicates the popular old Lincoln Zephyr gear set. Getting away from the straight cut '32 gears is definitely a plus. I wouldn't trust that chipped tooth.

 

I was afraid someone would say that.. looks like I’ll have to avoid slamming in second.
Yes, these are the LZ gears! I’ve never ran a set and I’m curious to see why all the fuss. A long first gear is what I’m hoping for.

 

Ready to install!

 

Great project. I'm no Ford trans expert but with that chip won't it jump out of gear?

 

Neither am I, so I’m always open to advice. That gear does not slide into position and the material is missing at the center, so I’m hoping I’ll never feel it. But I can see how the missing material will make it more prone to breaking further.

 

I am certainly no expert, but to me the gear chip looks like it's been there since production. I'm not sure how such a defect could happen while using or abusing the gear box.

Just my opinion.

Phil

 

Dress the chip out with a small grinding disc or dremel, it will likely be fine.

 

Stayed up late to install the motor.

 

Look'n reaaaallly good!

 

Looks good!! You'll need to notch the motor mounts for fan belt clearance.

 

The cavity in the gear tooth won't cause the transmission to come out of gear, the synchro teeth are what control that.
Is the cavity even on the thrust side of the gear? I.e. the side that is loaded under power.

 

Good point. I’m going to study the rotation

 

Dude talk about cruzing the Boulevard supper kool

 

Pulled the drums off the rear again to install the e-brake cable. But it looks like the last cable was jammed up inside the guide tube. Any tricks for removing these bits and pieces of mashed up wire? I’m trying to avoid having to cut the tube open.

 

Ok Never mind. I guess the trick is to use a small screwdriver, and then a bigger screwdriver, and then a small one again, and then a hammer and maybe a Phillips, then a drift with hammer, A rattail file, a pair of needle nose and a magnet.

 

Well done on getting that out. It's one of those jobs that just needs having a go at it.

I'm enjoying this build, the car looks great.

Mart.

 

Back to the brake pedal assembly: I needed to start mapping out the location of my new dual reservoir master cylinder. I sourced a drum/drum type aftermarket specified for 1968 Mustang. I used the same type on my last build - AV8 roadster - with success. This is a 1.0” bore master according to the spec sheet at Autozone so I’ll need to keep the lever hanging under the pedal as short as possible. The measurement (center of pedal arm pivot to center of brake linkage pivot) used on the AV8 was 2” inches so I’m trying to stay close to that.

‘68 mustang master with metal lid. I also liked that this replacement part included a pushrod doo-hicky. One less part to source.

 

I welded a sufficiently long arm to the bottom of the brake arm as I didn’t know what length I would need. Turns out it was way longer than needed (better than too short). In order to clear the underside of the crossmember, the pivot for the brake linkage will need to be a minimum of 2.25” inches from the center of the brake arm pivot. A bit longer than I was hoping but I think I can work with that.

I’ll drill a hole here and cut off the rest of the material.

 

Still not entirely confident on my ratios and clearance, I left the extension a bit longer with a second hole.

 

Sure enough! The belt did not clear the mounts. I removed a substantial amount of material this morning to correct the issue.

 

I also remedied a clearance issue with the front wishbone touching the starter plate at the bell housing. I’m using a late truck oil pan and plate on an 8ba, and learning that the dimensions are a little different than the stock ‘32 bellhousing and pan.

 

Pulled more metal off the car today. The fuel tank needs attention, and I’m in search for a spreader bar without the spare tire mount.

 

It looks like the fuel tank needs more attention than I thought. The underside was rusted through.

 

I hear the sound of Taps,
Bummer