HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

The only alcohol I run is down my gullet! As for blown flatheads, yeah I've known a few. This one turned the dyno north of 330 running 92 octane. Built by the good book (Joe Abbin's book, chapter and verse).

 

Man oh man! I have been spending a bunch of the first thee days of the kids new school year cleaning out my garage and getting Hubba Hubba unburied. I got so excited to see it again fairly unobstructed that I wanted to dive right back into the chop and shortening of the overall length.
So today I realized I need to shape the Ash insert bows I cut out of a big warped unusable piece I had meant for guitar bodies. I thought no problem I’ll knock em out so the roof won’t be so flimsy when I fudge with it(I really have pushed my luck thus far with the two halves). So I go back through my messages to clarify with the measurements @timwhit gave me. Well in quite typical Wyatt fashion I mistakenly had rough cut all six bows to a little over 40” when I believe I meant to cut at 44”. The piece I cut them from had easily another 24” so I have no excuse. I bet I even measured twice or more but still not enough.
I will muster up replacement material and try again promptly.
So disappointed in myself. I should’ve just worked on the seats like I planned too.


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Gah isn’t that shitty. We’ve all been there

 

Just weld a piece back in the middle!
Fucking wood. Have a wiener roast then make some super cool sheet metal bows with lots of cool racey looking holes in em!

 

Matt I am ditching all the other wood in the “cockpit” for steel with dimpled holes. I really like the wood bows though I don’t know why. If I was a Hollywood hot rods type designer though I’d cast some aluminum I-beam ones and drill’em like little dropped front axles. Ooh polished too I suspect it’s been done before though.
I would consider square tubing that comes with holes already on all four sides. Let me look in to that. Hope I could bend the mild arc in them.

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...where theres wood there could be fire...

How about a fancy metal center piece doubling as an extension to bring the short beams back in tolerance...

 

I have a aluminum intake coming that I think I can cut up, port, weld on a base plate and pop off valve for the blower. Plus I am enjoying the Joe Abbin book.


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I ditched the steel ideas and got some cool hickory. I traced all of them out after making a template. Then my jigsaw broke. I’ll be back on it tomorrow. I think they look awesome. If not I could lathe up some drum sticks or just throw em on the grill for flavor.


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Glad to see you back to work on Hubba Hubba! Go, Wyatt, go!

 

Cut out all the pieces that make up my seat mounts today. Now I will drill a bunch of holes to put hot rivets through. The rear brackets hold cheapo door latches from speedway. The front brackets are to be sandwiched with a spacer then slide between two staggered L brackets that bolt to the floor. The L brackets will be welded to a small plate to retain the gap that the seat plates side into and one next to. I planed this out for strength and wear. So each seat has four front plates on it and four plates stick up from the floor for two bolts to go through. The front bracket are for the seats to flip forward. Hence the door latches in the rear.



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Door latches! YES!

Lol I’ve been trying to figure out an easy way to latch the bottom back of my front seats. Never thought about door latches. Great idea.

 

Now this is really getting crazy! I feel this is real hot rod’n. I mean literally it feels like I’m truly working on a real hot rod when I’m deep in this stuff.
I picked up a $20 something 40s Ford intake that somebody started to hack apart I believe to mount multiple carbs.

I continued the process for different reasons.

I slowly cut my way in.

Drilled four ports of the lower plane to see where I was headed


Roughed in some ports but lots to go still

I will weld in flat stock to patch the front that opened up and this area in the middle to make the plenum more rectangular and seal the heat passage.
I am ordering a big plate to weld after the top is milled flat and parallel to the base. I am figuring out where to place a pop off valve.
The plan is to go with a 3-71 now. I missed getting one the other day. I have my eyes peeled.
Now how’s this for crazy.



I am talking to a very good machinist friend about making me a aluminum base like this Navarro unit for my chrome 94s. I am wondering too if there is a way to go with larger throttle blades with some corresponding machining of the carb ventures?


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I may even polish this turd since I’m so geeked over it. Twenty dollars lol.


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Score!

 

A man can dream ya know.



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Some of the later 94’s had larger venturi and throttle body bores. You can easily tell by looking down the throat of each casting to see a fractional number cast into the venturi body. A true 94 is 15/16”, while some of the y block carbs got up to 1 1/16” if I remember right. Dimensionally they are the same externally.


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ECG-6 casting is a 1 1/16". I'm sure there are others, I just know because it took me forever to find three solid cores with the ECG-6 casting for a project that has now gone a different direction

 

I suppose 4 2110s at 840cfm is more than necessary. 640cfm should suffice. The first engine build is hopefully using the second 4” stroke crank I got not the one I started whittling on and plan to get offset ground.
A point of interest. I see in bottom views of 2110s a clear jump from the larger 1 1/16 base down to the main carb body. I suspect the 94 and 2110 bodies are the same venture size. I know that cfm rate can go up with a throttle blade only size increase.


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That is really wild...I take it they are actually all separate still just machined to get them closer to centralize the fuel distribution...OR do they share fuel bowls...is that yours?

I see only 1 linkage for all four...that must have taken some genius too orchestrate...there sure are some crafty Hoodlums...

What was it on...I can just imagine...
​

 

These are what I ordered. A right and left for each seat. I believe I will need to cut and re-weld one of the tabs on the opposite side of the release lever. This way I can have a connecting rod linking the two under each seat. Each seat will have a lever with a nos Daka-Ware maroon ball knob I bought a bunch of.
I’m still thinking on the lever that rocks the actual padded seat base on it pivot.




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Have you looked at the stock style pivots?

 

No, I just knew I would make my own since I needed to get the seats low. I’ve been concerned about the chop and the fact that my seat bases have a arched spring padded cushion. I suspect they are around 8 or more inches thick when not sitting on them. Plus mounting height. As apposed to common bomber seats and such and guys run basically nilch in the way of padding. It a fine line of hitting your head, bending your neck to see traffic lights, knees in the steering wheel or dash, or sitting on the floor with uncomfortable leg positions.


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Glad you are using the wood bows. Looking good.

 

Stumbled on this movie last night. Tried not to laugh at the forced over the top hot rod lingo being used in the script.


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Are you trying to make the whole seat pivot forward or just the seat bottom? I’m a little confused.

The model A stuff is super super simple. thought they may help simplify some ideas

 

@Stogy I think that carb base was shoved on top of a blown Flathead. Probably trying to squeeze as much carb over the blower as they could fit

 

Very interesting what's been done to get the numbers...

 

I'm just glad you are back at it Shine....

 

X2, me


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@Tim the seat will flip forward on the front mounts/pivot and “latch” down at the back mounts.

The actual padded base over the seat rocks. I will make 3-5 lockable positions for them.



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